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xclimber
May 12, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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Anybody care to compare/contrast the Omega Pac Scallop Nuts to the older Omega Smiley's (which are essentially identical to BD stoppers...).
Thanks,
x
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geezergecko
May 13, 2004, 1:24 AM
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The wires on the Scallops are a bit longer than the Smileys/Stoppers. That may or may not be useful. The sizing is still the same. A climbing store clerk once told me that the edgewise Pringles potato chip frills were to avoid patent lawsuits from Black Diamond. OP bought out Smileys and changed the design to avoid BD's wrath. I found the edgewise taper of the BD Stoppers more useful than the ridges in the OPs but then I find HB Offsets more useful than either. Scallops are cheaper and that counts for a lot with the dirtbag crowd (myself included).
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moeman
May 13, 2004, 2:16 AM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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In reply to: The wires on the Scallops are a bit longer than the Smileys/Stoppers. That may or may not be useful. The sizing is still the same. A climbing store clerk once told me that the edgewise Pringles potato chip frills were to avoid patent lawsuits from Black Diamond. OP bought out Smileys and changed the design to avoid BD's wrath. I found the edgewise taper of the BD Stoppers more useful than the ridges in the OPs but then I find HB Offsets more useful than either. Scallops are cheaper and that counts for a lot with the dirtbag crowd (myself included).
In that case, just go with the ABC Huevos. Identical to BD Stoppers, dirt cheap, and no patent lawsuits.
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andypro
May 13, 2004, 3:11 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2003
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I could see them being a little usefull in very irregular or crystaline cracks, but other than that, I dont see much difference over a regular sided nut.
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xclimber
May 13, 2004, 3:26 AM
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I always thought that total surface area contact increased staying power/stability, and the scalloping would seem to reduce that...
x
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andypro
May 13, 2004, 5:14 AM
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In reply to: I always thought that total surface area contact increased staying power/stability, and the scalloping would seem to reduce that... x
If you look at most nut design marketing blurb whatevers, they go for the "three points of contact". Very rarely are you going to get any more than a few square milimeters at a time at any one point contacting the rock. With the scallops (at least what I think they're shooting for) is that it will fit in or grab the irregularities/crystals/granules more securely. I could be wrong, but that's my take on it.
Edit: Forgot to add that if youll notice, on the front and back they're really just a normal curved taper nut. It's only on the sides where the scallops are. So I guess it would work either way, depending on which way you have the nut turned. Personally, especially in the smaller sizes, I woudln't want that nut sideways if I could avoid it, negating the point of having them scalloped on the sides in the smaller sizes. The larger sizes, sure, but the smallest few...no thanks.
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