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climbingfreak
May 15, 2004, 2:42 AM
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How do I get build up a good 'lead head'. The few times i have lead in the gym i was to scared to fall and when i hit the crux of the route 10a i totally froze for five minutes. Even though i was barely above my last clip i was to freaked out to let go. Eventually i tried to down climb and i fel.
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chossmonkey
May 15, 2004, 2:47 AM
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Get on a slightly overhanging wall and start taking practice falls. Probably best outdoors high on a route with beefy bolts or bomber gear. Make them bigger and bigger starting at your anchor with a bit of slack in the rope until you are enjoying 20 footers. 8^)
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tallnik
May 15, 2004, 8:35 PM
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I agree, but after five falls or so, take down the rope and let it "Rest". I've been told it stretches with each fall, and after about five practice falls you should ease up on the rope for a bit. Overhanging is a good start, and then vertical, and then slab... For slab try to sort of pop-off the wall if you're falling, don't push off too hard, just enough so you can "run" (read try not to cheesegrate) until your last clip catches you. Make sure you're off the deck as well, with at least three clips, and as much rope as possible. More is better --> more rope, more clips, etc
Cheers,
Nik
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girlclimb
May 16, 2004, 2:17 AM
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Being as I have just started leading myself i don't know how good my advice will be but i also find that a slightly overhanging wall is the best place to start. Like the previous posters stated start with tiny falls then work your way further and further. rember your cat like reflexs! i think it is a good idea to get used to falling right away, ...what worked for me might not work for you but the people that took me out started me on hard routes that i was basicaly destined to fall on...(not necessarily the best idea ;) ) but basically it was nice to realize that i could handel the fall on my first day out leading becuase it if anything it calmed my nerves a little while climbing, and encouraged me to try things that i may have otherwise not. GOOD LUCK! believe in your self and take your time it will come :D
Katelyn
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mcchicken
May 16, 2004, 3:50 AM
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I had this same problem. In fact, I still don't like falling, but it's easier now. The way I got over it was to take a class. It's not that they teach you how to fall (actually they do, but it's not what helped), but the fact that the instructor says, "ok, now fall." I didn't want to look like an idiot, so I just let go. After doing that a couple times I felt more comfortable.
With that said, I still find myself down climbing every now and again. Just depends on what's below me. Pretty dumb actually, because I waste more energy doing that than in making the move. Oh well, I'm getting there. It just takes time.
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climbingfreak
May 18, 2004, 6:50 PM
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Thanx for the advice
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crimpandgo
May 18, 2004, 6:55 PM
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Pick climbs you know pretty well and feel comfortable on. The lead them, alot. ONce you build some comfort/confidence you will notice that you are not paying attention to the where the last bolt is as much as you used to :D
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chossmonkey
May 18, 2004, 6:59 PM
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Letting the rope recover is good advice. Remember the more rope you have out, the more rope there is to absorb the fall.
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ben87
May 18, 2004, 7:28 PM
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"With that said, I still find myself down climbing every now and again. Just depends on what's below me. Pretty dumb actually, because I waste more energy doing that than in making the move. Oh well, I'm getting there. It just takes time."
nothing wrong with down-climbing, I think. Yes, being comfortable with falling and trusting your pro is important -- but there are lots of situations in which it's a good idea to be conservative and avoid falling if at all possilbe.
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tedc
May 18, 2004, 7:39 PM
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"Lead head" is not so much about feeling comfortable with falling as it is about KNOWING what you can do without falling. Only comes with practice.
climbingfreak:
If you held on for 5 min. in a 5.10 crux you probably wern't going to fall.
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dsmithdsp
May 18, 2004, 8:08 PM
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After a lot of apprehension on lead for the first time in over a year, I realized that I had taken some pretty nice falls recently on high bouldering problems. Two weeks later on my next trip, I pulled out the crash pad, found a 20 foot problem, and worked it. A few hits on the pad, and I was ready to go.
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jt512
May 18, 2004, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: How do I get build up a good 'lead head'. The few times i have lead in the gym i was to scared to fall and when i hit the crux of the route 10a i totally froze for five minutes. Even though i was barely above my last clip i was to freaked out to let go. Eventually i tried to down climb and i fel.
There is a book dedicated to the mental aspects of climbing. It's called the Rock Warrior's Way by Arno Ilgner. There is a forum on this site for discussion of the strategies the book discusses. You can browse the threads in the Warrior's Way forum, which might give you some ideas about how to improve your mental game. If the ideas appeal to you, buy the book and join the forum.
-Jay
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vegastradguy
May 18, 2004, 8:25 PM
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i used to be scared of falling in the gym. then we did the stupidest thing in the world. got on TR. belayed until we were about 12' up, then stopped taking in slack until we reached the top (35'). jumped off.
yeah, nothing like falling 30 or so feet to wake you up! of course, i still have a fear of falling..... :lol:
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sarcat
May 18, 2004, 8:55 PM
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I hate falling no matter what. I've not taken to many nasty whippers but quite a few small ones. I still get sketched when I know I'm going to fall. But then knowing I'm just about off sometimes gives me the extra adrenaline to make the move. How far above the last bolt its the biggest factor in how sketched I get.
Agree with you COMPETENT belayer to give you some penalty slack once in a while. That'll teach ya.
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alpnclmbr1
May 18, 2004, 9:14 PM
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Learning to lead climb in a gym is a mistake as far as I am concerned. (unless you are never going to leave one)
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mcchicken
May 19, 2004, 12:31 AM
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I'm not going to get into the gym vs. outdoor discussion, it's been covered, but that's quite a bold statement. Can you explain? If this guy is is scared of falling then he's fairly new to lead. I'm thinking that he would like to make an informed decision rather than going on blind faith.
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