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dfrancom
May 20, 2004, 12:55 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
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I am looking for some shorter multi pitch routes in the Valley that are rated around 5.8 - 5.9. I am new to trad and don't want anything terribly hard. What about sport climbs, are they far and few between?
Daniel
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climboard
May 20, 2004, 1:36 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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The Nutcracker and Central pillar of Frenzy are two classics in that range.
Both are 5 pitches and crowded!
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fireclimber
May 20, 2004, 1:39 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2001
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And if that is to much try after6 and after7, they are next to the Nutcracker and easy multi pitch climbs. Also sunnyside jam crack is a classic 5-7 crack, be carefull it is greasy. Swan slab has some one pitch routes that will accept gear, have fun!!
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dsafanda
May 20, 2004, 1:50 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
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Note. Central Pilar of Frenzy is currently closed to climbing due to a recent rock slide.
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yomccent
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climboard
May 20, 2004, 2:22 PM
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Wow- I hadn't heard about that. Good call.
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ricardol
May 20, 2004, 4:09 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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there is tons of multipitch trad in the 5.8 - 5.9 range ..
Check out the five open books ..
most of them are 3 pitches in the 5.8 - 5.9 (except for munginella) ..
.. if you want more after that.. then link it up with salaginella (5.8) for a nice finish .. and nice walk off
.. later in the season (when it is no longer closed due to peregrine falcon nesting) you can do Super Slab (5.9) and 5 pitches ..
.. nutcracker + the other climbs in manure pile are 5 pitches and 5.8 - 5.9 ..
.. check out supertopo .. or the guide book ..
-- ricardo
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ctclimbz
May 20, 2004, 4:26 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2003
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As ricardol said, the five open books are a perfect place for some easy multi pitch. Commitment is a great 5.9, only rated 5.9 for a couple of moves getting around a roof on the last pitch. Munginella is just to the left and easier, but also fun and classic.
You might also want to consider the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. All the climbing is 5.9 or below except for a short 10c bolt ladder than can be french freed. The climbing is fantastic all the way, and quite moderate for the length of the route. ~10 pitches Just bring a helmet...
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jerrygarcia
May 26, 2004, 3:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: Valley that are rated around 5.8 - 5.9. I am new to trad Daniel
If your new to trad, go even lower in the valley. Try something at the "5 open books" area or glaceir point apron, maybe "monday morning slab"
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maculated
May 26, 2004, 3:51 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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If you're new to trad and don't climb in Yosemite, try out some easier stuff first - everything in Yos is stout.
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