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wormz
May 20, 2004, 3:07 PM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2003
Posts: 2
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Hey, I have a couple of draws which have a larger loop at one end and a smaller at the other (with the smaller loop being rather tight around the krab, making it hard to swivel). I was wondering, if climbing trad, which end would you have downwards? The big loop that allows the krab to rotate freely (and thus allowing you to spin to krab to minimise self-unclipping) or the big loop up, so the krab clipped into the nut for example has more freedom? I'd go for the first case, the free krab clipping the rope.
Thanks Guys and Gals.
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monopocketmojo
May 20, 2004, 3:12 PM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2003
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i don't know how much or why it matters, but typically the loose end is the one clipped to the anchor and the tighter end of the draw is clipped to the rope. i have a set of metolius draws (which suck btw--gonna replace the bent gates with omega jc wires) and the straight gate 'krab' is loose while the bent gate is tight into the dogbone...
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sarcat
May 20, 2004, 3:14 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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BD and Petzl sell their draws with the "tight end" on the rope 'biner and the "loose end" for the anchor 'biner. I've always kept it that way for trad. Hope I'm not wrong!!
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boss
May 20, 2004, 3:18 PM
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
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The tighter bent gate is for the rope. The loose end goes on the pro. The only reason the rope end is tighter is to keep it from spinning when you clip. With proper orientation of the biners (facing away from your intended direction of travel) you will have no problem with "self-unclipping."
Boss
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coclimber26
May 21, 2004, 3:06 AM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
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The main reason is so the biner isn't crossloaded in a fall. On looser ends the biner can rotate 90 degrees and a fall can be taken more easily on the short axis.
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