|
|
|
|
roughster
May 27, 2004, 6:34 AM
Post #1 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
It's early, I'm tired, and the coffee machine wasn't set the night before. Lets hope the days only gets better!
Two of us drive out of Vacaville, but within a fairly short period of time, we had grown to three. Yes, carpooling environmentalists would tip their hats in salute to our thriftiness. Hell with the way gas prices are nowadays, you'd be a fool not too! ;)
Before too long, we are at the parking area. I gingerly scope the blistered up toes on my right foot. This approach is going to hurt...and I know it. I shoulder the pack, my two partners do the same, and we are off down the well beaten path towards the new crag. Newness on the hike has given way to efficiency, and all three of us keep a fast clip, hit all the rocks, and are blasting through the trees.
As we hike and talk, I think abut whether or not this is really wise? 4 days post-IM. Muscles are still sore. Toes have what I refer to as "skin condoms" since the old layer of skin is dead and only loosely attached. I want to give time for the new skin to toughen up before I rip the old layer off. Perhaps this will do it for me? Not really feeling fatigued, but my tri-friends claim it should set in soon. I am shouldering a load, and hiking a fairly technical, and in many places steep trail for over a few miles...one way.
At the base, not a record but good time, we each go about the standard routine, except this time no one holsters a drill. Today is Developers Day Off...or is it? We take turns on the warm ups, but it is suggested all three of us, do the new multipitch route that goes to the top of the crag. Sounds good, and I run up the 1st pitch.
The wall is loaded with incut flakes, pockets, crimpers, slopers, etc... I haven't been on this one yet, and it is a great climb that dances its way up a line of strength in great position. Initial jugs to crimpers, to side pulls, the wall steepens, the holds thin out, one high step, and ahhh...back to jugs. I clip into the anchors, slap a TR belay on one of the others and up he comes. The other TR's a different route up to us, but they both can access this MP station anchor. As we all three are there, I tilt my head back and scan up the steeper wall above. A short slab, to a steeper pillar, and one move leaving the saftey of corner and onto delicately face climb over the abyss. The exposure looks to be killer. I can just make out the chains over the bulgy top of that same pillar, and it still looks another 80 feet to the top of the crag....
I belay both the following pitches leader as well as the middles TR, and then I follow cleaning it all up. A sweet middle pitch that is an excellent climb. All three of us are now hanging out in style at the comfy belay. We comment on the quality of the climbing, the spacious belay, and the guarenteed popularity. Pitch three is above us. A spine-like arete splits the sky. A line of bolts tackles a steep arching overhang just left, but we are going straight up the spine, over a juggy bulge, then up a headwall to the top. It takes a 60M and it just gets us back down. We each take a burn.
As I climb, I can't help but to be pleased with the quality. Every kind of hold imaginable, a pumpy bulgy middle section, and then insanely featured rock for another 30 feet. I pull up past the chains for full effect and see the top of the crag. Its like hitting the bell because I immediately begin to lower. We elect to rap off and within probably an hour or so from leaving the base, three of us have done a three pitch sport route. I don't think any of us had planned to do a multipitch route today, but when all you need is 15 draws and a belayer or two, why not? :lol: As I am waiting my turn to rap off of pitch two, I am clipped in, leaning back, and just then a small breeze swirls around me. It's good to be here is all I can think to myself.
After the multipitch madness, I can't resist the lure of my new line that still needs some cleaning up. While I work, the other two play on a pair of nearby 12s that are stellar. I take a break and watch one chickenwinging his way up a steep juggy face. Things aren't looking so good. I can hear him grunting. He's looking kinda shakey....and....
He yells, "ahh got it"... quickly followed two seconds later with "Arggg falling!!!!!" I see him loop out, but the wall is steep. Its clean air. He is about 50 feet up, yet still has another 40 or 45 to go. Let them have their fun, it is time to get back to work! I scrub off some loose flakes, test a few holds for hollowness, and dilly dally around. I finally finish up.
By this time, both of the others have run a lap or two on the routes and come up to where I am. I suggest a quick jog around the crag, since despite them being the only other 2 people who have seen more than just a a few sections of the cliff, there is still much they haven't seen. I take them up gullies, down slopes, across chasm, downclimbs, etc... It is the grand tour and it does not fail to impress.
Asking, "How many routes you think could go up?"
Is answered with, "I don't know maybe 5-600? The biggest problem with this crag is going to be finding enough $$ to buy the hardware!"
I agree :shock: We hike back to our stuff, and do a time check. Its running late, so we pack up. Say 'Goodbye' once again to the place that is only getting better by the day. The hike out is fast and it burns a hole in my legs, but I know the routine, pay now, pleasure later because shortly after finishing the hike, its pizza and beer at a local resteraunt.
The drive back is filled with the usual banter, but my mind keeps drifting to the 2nd belay where I lean back and let the wind wisp away the thoughts of another day.
|
|
|
|
|
scuclimber
May 27, 2004, 7:24 AM
Post #2 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 1007
|
So now tell us where you were... :wink: Auburn possibly?
Colin
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
May 27, 2004, 1:43 PM
Post #3 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
Dear Aaron,
Well I can finally get a chance to rest. Finally a day where I am not being drilled and bolted and chizzled and comfortized and cleaned (I'm supposed to be dirty).
Although the scars will never heal, the Access Fund has agreed to pay for you to do an Ironman once a month for the rest of your life so that I may enjoy one day of solstice and peace.
Your Nonrenewable Subject,
The Rock
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
May 27, 2004, 1:50 PM
Post #4 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
and where were you??? sounds really cool.
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
May 27, 2004, 4:11 PM
Post #5 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
Actually it wasn't Auburn. The new crag IMO has just as much potential or more. I actually am leaning more towards thinking there is more potential!
More info will be coming soonish. We want to get in at least 50 routes before others start coming out. Not because we are trying to "hog" the lines, but rather because we want to make it worthwhile for people to go out there.
We are going out there again on Friday and I am going to try and get some sweet shots for you guys to check out!
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
May 27, 2004, 4:18 PM
Post #6 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
In reply to: Dear Aaron, Well I can finally get a chance to rest. Finally a day where I am not being drilled and bolted and chizzled and comfortized and cleaned (I'm supposed to be dirty). Although the scars will never heal, the Access Fund has agreed to pay for you to do an Ironman once a month for the rest of your life so that I may enjoy one day of solstice and peace. Your Nonrenewable Subject, The Rock
Heheh :) Hell if the AF would offer that, I would consider it! I know that widescale development is not something that some people like, but it does seem to be something that everyone enjoys, even those who like to talk about how they would like to not see it happen if you know what I mean :)
Ever been to Yosemite? (thats a rhetorical question of course - Great trip report by the way!) There was more "cleaning" done on El Cap alone then I will do in my lifetime of development.
|
|
|
|
|
scuclimber
May 27, 2004, 6:15 PM
Post #7 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 1007
|
Wow, another NorCal sport climbing crag in development. That sounds so awesome.
Colin
|
|
|
|
|
scuclimber
May 27, 2004, 6:16 PM
Post #8 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 1007
|
Wow, another NorCal sport climbing crag in development. That sounds so awesome.
Colin
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
May 27, 2004, 6:27 PM
Post #9 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
It wasn't "argh, falling!" it was a rather cowardly "Aieeee!" that I yelled coming off that 12. And for the record, the foothold broke. 8^)
Yep, another good day at 8^) with some outstanding climbing! We still need to post the anchor picture in the anchor analysis center to see what people think! :lol:
Hey Paul, you climb at JT. There's more bolts in JT than at 8^) . Dug your zodiac TR by the way. Glad you were honored to climb over a poop tube. :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
May 27, 2004, 6:56 PM
Post #10 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
In reply to: It wasn't "argh, falling!" it was a rather cowardly "Aieeee!" that I yelled coming off that 12. And for the record, the foothold broke. 8^)
Sure Dave. Its always " A foot broke or I would've sent!" heheh :lol:
It just sucks I didn't have my camera with me, because from my angle, it was so damn sweet looking!
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
May 28, 2004, 4:46 AM
Post #11 of 11
(2198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
In reply to: Glad you were honored to climb over a poop tube. :lol:
Better than climbing under a poop tube being filled :) And I'm glad you enjoyed it dude.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
|
|
|
|
|
|
