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scottratcliff
May 28, 2004, 5:11 AM
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I've been climbing for a little while now...a few months. I'm able to climb a an even 5.10 but as soon as I start to climb a route with an overhang it's like I'm just starting again. The best I can do is a 5.9- and that's pretty difficult. I'm not sure if it's because I'm not strong enough or if it's because of my technique. Any advice??? Thanks!!!
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b3a
May 28, 2004, 5:17 AM
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I have the same problem with you! I have been climbing over a year and i am still stuck at 5.10's. When it comes to overhangs, i can never red point a 5.10! I think mainly it is the strength factor (for me at least it is) though footwork does play and important role. I always lack the endurance and strength when it comes to overhangs (not mentioning lacking the height as well..i am only 5 feet tall :? )
p/s: i am referring to climbing in a gym here. i am not much of an outdoor climber.
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scottratcliff
May 28, 2004, 5:41 AM
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Thanks. I climb indoor too, I'd like to get stronger and a little better at footwork before I go outdoor. The best place to boulder by me is really dangerous...I don't think I'm quite ready yet.
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divagation
May 28, 2004, 6:41 AM
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Foot work! Endurance in overhang comes down to getting the weight on your feet and keeping your arms straight. As for strength building, the best way to get strong enough to work the overhangs is to climb them frequently! I lacked the endurance to climb overhangs until I started working overhanging problems, now I can onsight 10s and redpoint 11s, even when my feet are sloppy. That strength came from working the overhangs and falling and working them some more. It is surprising how quickly you will gain that endurance and start climbing at your regular level on overhanging walls.
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scuclimber
May 28, 2004, 7:22 AM
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You need core strength, to keep your body closer to the wall. Abdomenal muscles, hip flexors, back muscles, things like that. If your arms are getting pumped quickly on overhanging stuff, then obviously work on that area too.
Colin
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corey
May 28, 2004, 11:37 AM
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Listen to Divagation. The discrepancy between what I can climb on vert/slab vs overhanging is nearly a full number (10a to 11a, but I'm also working the hardest 10a in all of the Red River Gorge). I used to avoid overhanging routes, because I would burn out so fast (oh yeah, I'm about 225 lbs, so the load on my hands is pretty high). After working on this particular route for some time, I have noticed a signifigant improvement in my route endurance, as well as "day" endurance and my footwork/body position has improved greatly. Stop climbing routes you believe you can do that are vert/slab and focus on overhanging jug-hauls that are just beyond your ability. Work the beta for the climb to the point where you can visualize the entire climb; every move, back-step, drop-knee, side-pull and throw. Working a route which utilizes good footwork and body position will train your body to naturally find the best positions to relieve load from your hands. You'll be surprised how much your climbing will improve as a whole by training on overhanging routes where footwork and body position are the two most critical factors (the hand strength and endurance will develope from the extra load).
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clarki
May 28, 2004, 12:30 PM
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Everybody is dead-on so far, footwork, core, endurance training, but the only other thing I could suggest is......GET OUTSIDE! There is no reason to "get better" before you climb outside, there are routes of all grades and levels of commitment in the real world. Just go find them!
I think you will discover your footwork and overall technique will improve much faster when you are not looking at a choice between a blue or a green taped hold. "Real" climbing involves complex decisions about which hold to use, how to use it, move sequence, where to place your feet; all the things that are practically spelled out for you in a gym setting. In the real world, hese decisions must be made entirely by YOU with your own observations of the rock in front of you. I am not dissing gyms entirely, just that their uses beyond a training tool are often overstated.
You say your local crag/boulders are a bit dangerous? Make decisions to improve your safety (crashpads, spotters, topropes, etc.) and climb there! Climbing becomes so much more worthwhile when there are real consequences to your decisions. Climbing is much more mental than most people think, success through controlled risk is what it is all about to me!!!!
Did I mention getting outside????
Good Luck!!!
John
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dredsovrn
May 28, 2004, 12:45 PM
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I think when you are new you have a tendancy to pump out on overhangs for three reasons. One you haven't developed the endurance, you tend to pull too hard with bent arms, three you take too long. That was my experience. Overhangs are sustained and there is rarely an opportunity to rest.
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overlord
May 28, 2004, 12:48 PM
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try looking into the technique and training forum :wink:
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killclimbz
May 28, 2004, 2:23 PM
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Yeah, quit worrying about getting stronger before you go outside. You'll never get out there if you do. Indoor climbing sucks compared to real rock. Plus, I think you'll find that a lot of the overhangs you'll tackle outside are actually easier that what you have been dealing with indoors. Usually there is one or two hard moves to a great rest. Not always mind you, but frequently. Get out there!
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climbersoze
May 28, 2004, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2003
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some really good replies... talking about core strength - check.... talking about training on an overhang a few grades lower - check...
some ideas for training:
1) lay on your back and do pullups off a weight bench or table or go to the gym and wear yourself out on a rowing machine
2) carry everything with your fingertips (builds tendon/forearm strength)
3) spend the 20 bucks and get some dumbells and do forearm curls
4) campus a LOT
5) rope climbing is actually a great workout for your arms and tendons too (don't use your feet)
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photon
May 28, 2004, 3:06 PM
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stay away from training that won't help much it will just bore you, drink a lot of caffeine instead this will keep you from getting water heavy.
When climbing steep stuff, keep your arms bent and your hips as far away from the wall as possible. Make sure your hips are also squarely facing the wall at all times don't turn sideways or anything like that. The worst thing you could do would be to climb a lot of overhangs as you'll just learn a lot of bad habits and your arms will get too tired.
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simianboy
May 28, 2004, 3:51 PM
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Don't know what your indoor gym is like, but the one I use has lots of overhanging faces for bouldering. There are usually some regular gym rats there that are very good at it, so I learned to climb overhangs by bouldering with them at the gym.
Overhangs seem difficult at first, but you'll be amazed how quickly that'll change.
As the others mentioned, try to keep your arms straight whenever you can, keep your body close to the wall (you'd have to choose all the right footholds to do that), and you will often have to do a 'drop knee'.
Just keep at it. You're going to love it.
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valeberga
May 28, 2004, 3:58 PM
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Practice on the overhanging bouldering wall a lot.
Your arms will not pump out as fast if you can keep them straight instead of bent. And sometimes a move is easier if you "hang and swing" the move more dynamically instead of always trying to do the moves statically and in complete balance.
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