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simianboy
May 29, 2004, 12:26 AM
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Okay, here's another shoe thread. Which shoe brand do you guys think has the most durable rubber? (Is this the same as asking for the most unsticky shoe?)
I'm looking for a pair of shoes that last. I don't really care about stickiness because I'll be using it for training in the gym.
I always wear out the front toe part (because I do lots of intermediate smearing before getting to the footholds on climbs that are at my limit).
So far, I've tried 5.10 Spires and Rock Pillar Wall. The Rock Pillars lasted about 4 months of climbing twice a week. The Spires lasted more than half a year but I really wasn't climbing that often then.
Whaddaya guys think?
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walllizzard
May 29, 2004, 3:18 AM
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Ive been using Mad rocks outside on a regular basis and they are lasting pretty long, a couple months now with expected wear, Ive heard good things about Vibram rubber and Boreal rubber is on the longer/ harder side of wear
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curt
May 29, 2004, 3:32 AM
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The newer molded Boreal rubber has a reputation of lasting for a long time--but at the expense of performance. I would recommend that you stay with something that performs reasonably well.
Curt
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ullr
May 29, 2004, 3:35 AM
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Trojan
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njari
May 29, 2004, 5:39 AM
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La Sportiva rubber holds up well, with only a little sacrifice in stickyness.
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collegekid
May 29, 2004, 5:58 AM
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ullr beat me to it.
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dynoguy
May 29, 2004, 6:05 AM
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Boreal.
My Aces went something like 4 years of climbing before a resole.
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saskclimber
May 29, 2004, 6:06 AM
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Vibram is really good, and so is the Madrock stuff (as long as it's the #5), not those dual-density pieces of garbage. I'd have to say my favority is the Saltic Extacy though.
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rockrat511
May 29, 2004, 6:15 AM
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Ditto on the Boreal Aces. The shoes wear well, mine have about three years of climbing and are just getting ready for a resole. I have not had any complaints about stickieness except maybe a little bit of poor performance on slabby stuff. Really a great all around shoe.
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karmaklimber
May 29, 2004, 7:28 AM
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Vibram. Stealth is sticky, but not as durable as Vibram. The rubber on my most recent pair of Moccassyms have been peeling in layers like an onion. I've had no problems with my Cobras.
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c-money
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May 29, 2004, 7:59 AM
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If these are simply for training, save some bucks and get a resole done on your old shoes. Go for Vibram - it is not as sticky as 5.10, but more durable and it performs better than boreal.
If you are buying shoes for the gym, stay away from the Aces. You will be hating them in the gym. While they will last ages, and you will be able to kick a hole through the wall with them, Aces are not good gym performers, nor do they smear that well, due to their stiffness.
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simianboy
May 29, 2004, 10:01 AM
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Thanks for all the help. Looks like Vibram and Boreal Aces are favourites for durability. Will try them for fit next time I visit the gear shop.
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aznrapsta
May 29, 2004, 8:31 PM
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I have to pick Trojans over the Lifestyles.
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c-money
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May 29, 2004, 9:30 PM
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Yeah, good pick, but you are only supposed to use that rubber once...
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climbfrog
May 29, 2004, 11:43 PM
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The Vibram may be the most durable.
As far as stickiness, did you know there is only like a 3% difference in all rubber stickiness once it's been used?
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simianboy
May 30, 2004, 2:02 PM
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You mean only 3% between the stickiest and the least stickiest? You sure?
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munckee
May 30, 2004, 4:00 PM
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Boreal, IMO. I had a pair of aces that lasted for about seven years without a resole. The only reason I turned around and put new rubber on them was a hole in the rand.
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tyify
May 30, 2004, 5:48 PM
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Boreal Aces...last forever and work pretty well for their durability!
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simianboy
May 31, 2004, 12:46 AM
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Wow. Sounds like I'll either love or hate the Aces. Will have to try them out on a wall. Will also definitely try out Katanas and Miuras among other shoes.
So, as far as rubber goes, the consensus is that Boreal Fusion 3 is the most durable, while La Sportiva's Vibram VSX is less durable but stickier, and then followed by 5.10's Stealth C4 while Madrock's mad rubber is the softest and least durable.
:?
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altaesque
May 31, 2004, 2:03 AM
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of interesting note, since nobody is talking about how much they have climbed per sole, and on what type of rock, is that a highly reputable resoler from colorado (name withheld because it is not me) whom I send my shoes to recomends Stealth C4 for durability.
Take it for what it is worth.
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