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paulthenurse
Jun 10, 2004, 8:42 AM
Post #1 of 3
(1327 views)
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Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 221
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"Psst...Pssst...Wake up."
"Ummmph."
"Hey, c'mon, wake up, it's time to get going."
"Ummmph."
"C'mon sleepyhead, wake up."
"What time is it?"
"Zero Dark Thirty."
"Jeez, it really is still dark out.. I was hoping I was blind."
"Nope, it's early, lets get going."
"Why, do we need to get going when it's still dark out."
"It's an Apine Start."
"An Alpine Start?"
"Yup!"
"Do you mind telling me what the hell you're talking about?"
"An Alpine Start... You know, when you need to get going early cause when the sun starts to shine on the mountain it melts snow and ice and you are more susceptable to avalanche and rockfall. You start early so you get out of the danger area while it's still cold."
"While it's cold...?"
"Yup!"
"It's supposed to hit 90 today!"
"Then we'd better hurry!!!"
"You just blew any chance you had of me sleeping in a tent tonight!"
"Where are we?"
"Braintree."
"Why are we still in Braintree?
"The Traffic Copter is reporting there is a tractor trailor tipped over, and on fire on the Mass Pike and traffic is backed up for miles in all directions. We haven't moved for a half hour, go back to sleep."
"Do you want some coffee?"
"Where are we?"
"At the start of the Kancamagus. We'll be there in about 45 minutes."
"Ok, I guess it's time to wake up."
"OK, so this is the same and different from gym climbing and top roping. The single most important thing to remember is to never, ever let go of the rope when you are belaying, just like belaying anywhere else. Otherwise your beloved could fall to an untimely demise."
"That would be the same beloved who woke me up in the dark?"
"I'm just looking out for your best interests, remember, you're tied into the other end of the rope."
"You'll never know how much I appreciate that."
"You're welcome. Then, when I get to an area where I can set up a belay, I'll build an anchor and bring you up."
"Just like that?"
"Yup! You can do it!" The climbing is the same, you will be toproped the entire time. Just climb. Trust the rubber, the rock is hot, the shoes will stick."
"Do you see the helmets?"
"No, they're not in the trunk."
"Damn, I must have left them in my car. Well, that's ok, we'll just go without them, it's Whitehorse, there is no loose rock."
"What happened to "Only a damned fool would climb without a brainbucket?"
"Ya mean you actually listen to me when I pontificate?"
"Sometimes."
"Ok, Let's head back into town. We can rent them at Craggers or IME."
"Ok, so this is the Launch Pad. See that hole up there to the right? That is the end of the first pitch. Now, see how I've got this anchor built so that not only will hold if I fall straight down from here, where the direction of load is straight down, but this little piece here will hold you if I fall after putting in a piece of pro and the direction of loading on you would be up. See how that works?"
"I think so. It seems pretty straight forward."
"OK, so when you are climbing up, you'll work your way up the same way I did, cleaning out the pieces of pro with the nut tool as you go."
"What's a nut tools?"
"It's that little metal thingie on your harness, it's like an extra finger."
"I don't have any little metal thingie on my harness."
"&^%$ *#^$ (*%^^##@ OK, I'll know I've got one in the small backpack.. Enjoy the sun, I'll be back in 15 minutes."
"Alpine Start, huh?"
"I love you, too!"
"Ok, now clip into the anchor and you will be off belay."
"Whew! Oh my God!! Water!!!"
"How was that pitch, did you feel better?"
"It goes a whole lot easier now, putting the gear back on the belt that way."
"Yup, you just need to develop a system of keeping track of everything. If you always put the biners in the same place, you don't need to search for them in a mess."
"Where now?"
"Up along this arch, then up to the Lunch Ledge, where those trees are."
"That's where you fell, right?"
"No, the pitch above that."
"Man, I'm sweating like an intern in July!"
"This is brutal! I'm cooked!"
"You look good in red."
"Keep on talkin, the hotel is getting another star every time you open your mouth."
"You want to keep going or call it an afternoon?"
"Do you need to make it past where you fell?"
"I'm shallow and egocentric, but I'm not quite that bad... The cliff isn't going anywhere.""
"I'm buying the first round."
"If I didn't already think you were wonderful, those words would cement the deal."
"Maybe, but I'm still not sleeping in a tent tonight."
"That's cool, I can call the front desk for an Alpine Start wakeup call in the morning."
"That just cost you the best bottle of wine on the menu!"
Paulthenurse and Ishouldknowbetter.
Standard Route
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH
6/8/04
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tcollins
Jun 10, 2004, 1:00 PM
Post #2 of 3
(1327 views)
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Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 999
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Great write up Paul. Nice to hear your ankle is doing better.
TD
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paulthenurse
Jun 11, 2004, 1:20 AM
Post #3 of 3
(1327 views)
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Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 221
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Thanks TD.
I had fun writing it.
PTN
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