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cookie22
Jun 16, 2004, 8:39 PM
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I am going to buy a new pair of climbing shoes and have only ever used five ten shoes , does anyone know if any other brands of shoes have stickier rubber?
The next thing is, I have a very slender foot, and a small heel, but i do many routes with heel hooks in them, does anyone have any suggestions?
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jcr
Jun 16, 2004, 8:57 PM
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Try lasportiva, theres lots of discussions trying to agree on which rubber is stickier (5.10 or lasportiva), lots of different opinions, I for one have tried both and think C4 stealth rubber (5.10) is just bearly a little stickier than vibram rubber (lasportiva), nevertheless I use the miura shoe from lasportiva and all I can say is great things about them. The difference between these two rubbers is very small chances are you wont even know the difference. PLUS lasportiva shoes ARE more durable.
JC
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p_grandbois
Jun 16, 2004, 9:24 PM
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I would say the Mad rock rubber is stickier, but hell it wears pretty fast. So I am not sur eif you can gauge buying them, they aren't worth it, unless your footwork is mint.
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metolius21
Jun 16, 2004, 9:45 PM
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dfhbdfhndgnhdh
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jowanky
Jun 16, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Usually the stickier rubber wears off faster. I definately think 5.10 has stickier rubber than la sportiva. I would recommend going to a store and trying on different shoes.
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nirvana
Jun 16, 2004, 10:06 PM
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I just tried my new Evolv Kaos shoes out at the gym last night. I had tears in my eyes, they performed so well. Unbelievable edging, and the rubber was nice and sticky.
I never thought I'd find shoes I like better than my La Sportivas, but I'm sold on Kaos. And they seem to fit quite similarly to La Sportivas.
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dredsovrn
Jun 16, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Evolv Bandits or Sportiva Miuras. I have heard that the Mythos heel can really be tied in tight because of the lacing system, but I have never had a problem keeping the heel on lace ups in general.
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rispo
Jun 16, 2004, 11:04 PM
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IMO 5.10's rubber is slightly stickier but its not that big a difference from la sportiva, so buy which ever fits better.
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gds
Jun 16, 2004, 11:11 PM
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Buy the shoe that fits best!!!
The rubber is going to wear out and you can resole with whatever you like. .
My (old style) 5.10 Huecos (several pair) are four years old and on their 4th or 5th resole. I love the fit and it will be sad when the uppers go.
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metolius21
Jun 17, 2004, 12:21 AM
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yfgkdtkdtyjdty
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overlord
Jun 17, 2004, 5:20 AM
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c3 not sicky enough. then try c4HF or mad rubber.
but chances are that the problem isnt rubber but your foowork.
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musicman
Jun 17, 2004, 5:32 AM
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i have LaSportiva Miura's and i think that they have a pretty slender foot, they fit so amazingly well, they really don't strecth much, they just kinda relax in the toe box, they preform amazingly, i've never climbed in 5.10's but from what i've heard from friends/rc.com it is stickier, but hey, it'll wear out faster and chances are you won't even notice!
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climb_plastic
Jun 17, 2004, 4:50 PM
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Looks like you'll have to try it yourself to find out what is stickier. If you climb at a gym that sells shoes, try a sportiva shoe on one foot and a five ten shoe on the other and smear the bottom on several surfaces with equal pressure and at various pressures. You'll find out which one is stickier. I won't tell you which one I've found is stickier but I think that the people who say sportiva rubber is just as sticky are crazy.
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