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roughster
Jun 20, 2004, 4:16 PM
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Dave and I had big plans: DTSA with three new routes on the agenda. Idle Hands, a steep juggy 10c, had proven beyond a doubt that the Shock Block formation would have a bunch more sweet steep routes with everything from pockets, pinches, and jugs and we were up to the task of slapping the steel in the wall, but...
...CaliMan still was calling my name. After last weeks whipper with Paolo, I knew the thing would go. The key would be to warm up, then hit it before it went into the sun. Plenty of time after that for new routes!
We warmed up on Defector 5.8, a fun high angle slab featuring sweet features on a shady corner. Next was Warcraft 5.10b, a steep juggy start that just starts to get a little pump working, then a sweet vertical headwall with features large enough to bivy in, and then finally finishing the warm up with Idle Hands 5.10c since Dave hadn't been on it yet.
Idle goes up a just overhung pocketed section with a slapper arete for the left hand, and bowling ball pockets for the right. This section ends with turning a small roof on monster buckets and huecos that literally could swallow your whole arm. Dave onsighted it and agreed on the grade 10c ( initially it was given 11a) and also agreed on its quality.
Over to CaliMan and I looked up, mimed my beta a few times, told myself to relax and fired on up hanging the draws as I go (expect the 1st two bolts which I stick clip due to bad rock). The lower moves have cleaned up nicely though anything you don't use remains to be a loosely cemented kitty-litter like substance. Once passed the 2nd bolt though, the good rock and moves start rolling. A long stretch up to a giant rail, intermediate right hand, and roll to a pocket. A quick mantle over the 1st steep section and you look up a left to right trending overhanging corner system. The rock is highly featured and the left side of the steep wall is streaked white from water, very cool looking.
At the bottom is a small slab section where you shake out and steel yourself for the enduro moves above. Nothing too hard, but a few tricky pumpy section pulling small bulges, and then a pretty good run from the 7th to the 8th bolt which contains the crux, but you wouldn't want to stop to clip another bolt anyways. This is where I launched off last time and went for a bout a 20 footer, woot :)
I start up from the slab moving through the harder sections and shaking at the intermittent jugs. Hit the crux section and just fire by with no hesitation. I do catch a quick glimpses down as I look where I put my feet and see the last bolt....wayyyy dddooooowwwwnnnn there! Definitely a bit of a rattler and a psychological crux! Hit the double undercling at the last bluge, shake for a second, then fire over the top with the last hard move using a fingertip pinch that spreads out your hands and of course pumps you silly. High step those feet up and over and.... the last of the hard part is done. After clipping the 9th bolt, its just one more to the top and then anchors and while the moves aren't hard, I wobble my way carefully up to make sure I don't blow it....send! Woot! Sending up a good project is one of the main reasons I climb. The more you put into it, the more you get out of it in the end. CaliMan is open for business!
Dave is feeling inspired and give it a TR burn, which is 1st time on it. He makes the comparison to Human Oddity and I agree. Both a enduro pumpfests with a few good shakes. Will be a good project for him, but... he has been working on the close by Grape Juice. Also a long haul (12 bolts) which tackles a steep wall for 5 bolts then a slabbier arete to a final overhanging finish a long way up, a 60M just *barely* gets you down. He starts up and while he is looking strong, his long break from trying the route (last time was a month ago) is showing with botched footwork, a Sharma-esqe campus move sequence, and general debauchery :lol: He reaches the 5th bolt crux and just pumps off the last hard move. So Close! He fires it up to the top for yet another one hang attempt. Soon Danielson!
We pack up and head over to the Shock Block to do some developing! After we were done with Idle earlier, we fixed a static to its anchors to make accessing the ledge that runs across the Shock Block easy. I gear up and jumar up the fixed line, traverse about 15 left, and slap in a new set of anchors. I short fix in and tell Dave he is game to start working on the line to the right of Idle, while I begin working a different line off of the new anchors.
As I lower down I am surprised to see just how much "headwall" there is above the steeper wall below. The moves look to be a bit tricky too boot, but my goal right now is to just clean/work the moves enough to know where to put the bolts, so I can then pass Dave the drill so he can add the bolts to the placements he marks on the way up. 4 bolts down the headwall on chicken heads, cobbles, and huecos, I hit the lip of the roof. I peer down and see that the initial line I was thinking is another 6 feet to my left, so elect to keep bolting the straight up line which looks to be fantastic. The steep wall and roof, and literally loaded with jugs!
What’s good is the steeper the wall, the cleaner the rock, and the lower section goes fast as it is mostly a matter of just finding the sequence and drilling the bolts. The last 2 bolts down (so really the 1st 2 bolts of the route) are back into choss, but it cleans up nicely. I unclip and decide to take a siesta while Dave finishes cleaning his line. As I munch on lunch, I start thinking of a name... When I 1st started talking about putting up Idle Hands (1st route on the Shock Block) both my regular partners told me the rock looked too chossy and to not waste my time, i.e.. the formation was a Lost Cause. Idle Hands had proven otherwise and in thought, I decided on Lost Cause for the name. Dave joins me for some food, then its back to the work, where Dave trams back up and bolts and I jumar back up as well putting the final touches of cleaning and painting the hangers to make them camo. It looks to be stellar! I hit the anchors unfix the static and rap off. Dave finishes bolting his and soon enough we are both at the base eye-balling our routes for potential FAs today.
I am not feeling overly strong since developing always seems to take a lot out of my arms, but I am game for a go. I know if I can just blitz through the roof sequence to the easier headwall above, I should be good. I start up the lower moves and they flow nicely on sweet jugs. The pump is building fast though, so I work up the liebacks and hit the crux quickly. Left heel cam into a corner, pop the right to an intermediate, inside pinch for the left, bump the right, then double bump again to a jug just over the lip. By this time I am craving the next bolt and it is right there. Clip in and start to relax thinking it will be an easy walk to the anchors...nope :)
Those apparently easy moves were a bit trickier than expected and I almost blow it a few times. Not sure if it was end of the day fatigue or what, but I am really happy to clip into the anchors for the FA. Another stellar route! I am thinking 10c or 10d, but don't really know. I have a REALLY hard time rating stuff after climbing and developing all day. Needs more people on it to give me feedback!
Next up its Dave’s turn on what he is know calling Decorator Crab. LOL, I ask him if he is sure he wants to name his route that and hey vehemently replies, "yes". Sounds good! :lol: While Dave was bolting I could hear him say stuff like, "Oh sweet this hold is bitchin....DOH!" and then a crash, thump, thud as pieces of rock smack into the ground. Usually followed by "Umm well that section will be harder now!" and so it goes. By the time he gets down he is hee-ho-humming about how hard it will be. "Harder than it looks" is his take right before he heads up.
A 1st bolt clipable from the ledge seems silly until you do the 1st step across right and 20 feet of exposure below opens up because of the rock from the "lower tier" coming up. We plan on bolting this direct start later, but for now it starts off the Shock Block ledge. Up a steeper than it looks wall and he is flowing smoothly. Its interesting to watch him do some quick rolls and reaches.... Hmmm maybe it is harder than it looks. He sends it up for its FA and I ask him what its rated, "Ummm not sure, a 10, but what letter?" *shrug*. I decide o give it a run for my last burn of the day.
Dave has bolted himself an instant classic that is destined to be probably one of the most traveled routes at the crag. This thing rocks all the way around with big moves on big holds alternating between steep and vertical sections. The view is fantastically exposed on a sweet arete. The line looked good from below, but how good it really is was not revealed until I got on it. 5.10a is what I think, but it would be a 5 star classic at every area in the U.S. IMO. Well every areas except DTSA where I plan on using a 3 star rating scale (long story, don't ask heheh :lol: )
The temps and weather were perfect, even in the sun, just a fantastic day and very productive too boot. Grabbing the standard issue pizza and beer on the way home already has a planning out more new routes. Should we do more single pitch (I personally want to do at least two more lines on the Shock Block) or tackle the 5-pitch (yeah that’s right no joke) 5 pitch laser sharp arete which will probably be the longest line at the crag...
Decisions, decisions...
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tigerbythetail
Jun 20, 2004, 6:09 PM
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And you're telling us this because...? T1
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crackboy
Jun 20, 2004, 6:33 PM
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well probably because this is a trip report and its in the ....wait for it... trip report section
really want to check this place out now, sounds pretty cool. If you guys don't mind dragging another up with ya, let me know.
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caughtinside
Jun 20, 2004, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: He starts up and while he is looking strong, his long break from trying the route (last time was a month ago) is showing with botched footwork, a Sharma-esqe campus move sequence,
In reply to: and general debauchery :lol:
I like to think of what you call 'general debauchery' as 'my style,' thank you. :lol:
Seriously, another great day at an awesome crag. Although, as those of you who read Aaron's report can tell, he doesn't like my name 'Decorator Crab.' Any thoughts? I like it.
On an unrelated note, roughster's worst fears have been realized, as a friend gave me a US Postal Service cycling jersey. Poser Roadie alert! Kook on the road! heh heh heh.
Watch out dude, I'll see to it that you get one too, and then we can be a kook cycling team! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
Just call me Lance.
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roughster
Jun 20, 2004, 10:42 PM
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In reply to: On an unrelated note, roughster's worst fears have been realized, as a friend gave me a US Postal Service cycling jersey. Poser Roadie alert! Kook on the road! heh heh heh. Watch out dude, I'll see to it that you get one too, and then we can be a kook cycling team! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA. Just call me Lance.
Dear God, say it isn't so :lol: :!: :lol: :!: :lol:
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maculated
Jun 21, 2004, 3:34 AM
Post #6 of 27
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Sounds like the guys are at it again. I'm jealous. I just climb nice, clean, established routes. :(
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caughtinside
Jun 21, 2004, 3:40 AM
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No problem, there is plenty of choss to go around! 8^)
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roughster
Jun 21, 2004, 3:42 AM
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In reply to: No problem, there is plenty of choss to go around! 8^)
I'll take a extra large diet coke and a super sized crag of choss to go please :lol:
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climbinginchico
Jun 21, 2004, 3:56 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: No problem, there is plenty of choss to go around! 8^) I'll take a extra large diet coke and a super sized crag of choss to go please :lol:
diet coke? man, with the amout of exercise you get, you can at least go for a regular Coke.
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roughster
Jun 21, 2004, 3:59 AM
Post #10 of 27
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In reply to: diet coke? man, with the amout of exercise you get, you can at least go for a regular Coke.
Total self-thread-hijack, but I actually prefer the taste of diet soda now to regular pretty much across all "brands". Regular soda is so sweet I feel like I should be pouring it on some pancakes! :lol:
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climbinginchico
Jun 21, 2004, 4:19 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: diet coke? man, with the amout of exercise you get, you can at least go for a regular Coke. Total self-thread-hijack, but I actually prefer the taste of diet soda now to regular pretty much across all "brands". Regular soda is so sweet I feel like I should be pouring it on some pancakes! :lol:
good point about the sweetness, but i prefer not to drink cancer causing chemicals... plus, nutrasweet is just gross...
back to the topic... Paolo tells me the area's awesome, and he can't wait to go back... And I wanna go too!
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slablizard
Jun 21, 2004, 6:45 AM
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Because he's sweating his ass off bolting routes for everybody and he loves it.
It's called enthusiasm.
In reply to: And you're telling us this because...? T1 |
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roughster
Jun 21, 2004, 6:45 AM
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In reply to: back to the topic... Paolo tells me the area's awesome, and he can't wait to go back... And I wanna go too!
Paolo was just pulling your leg. We just went bouldering at the Nut Tree Boulders and just made up a big story about some secret awesome 40+ route containing multi-pitch sport crag with a ton more potential :lol:
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slablizard
Jun 21, 2004, 6:49 AM
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In reply to: ....send! Woot! Sending up a good project is one of the main reasons I climb. The more you put into it, the more you get out of it in the end. CaliMan is open for business!
You actually surprised me with that fall when I was belaying you were solid when I saw you last time. Good job on Cali Man !
You have no idea how great is what you're doing, I thought that the sport climbing spirit here in the bay area was dead. Fortunately I was wrong.
Keep up the good work. I'll be there ASAP.
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slablizard
Jun 21, 2004, 6:53 AM
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Hey you guys! Ending the day at rc.com uh? LOL
I'll update my trip report (been at Mt Diablo today) tomorrow. I have that F15 waiting for me on the tarmac for a quick flight. 8^)
ciao
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roughster
Jun 21, 2004, 6:55 AM
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In reply to: Hey you guys! Ending the day at rc.com uh? LOL I'll update my trip report (been at Mt Diablo today) tomorrow. I have that F15 waiting for me on the tarmac for a quick flight. 8^) ciao
Slaving away at work right now :) Lets hear the rundown on Diablo. I was out at Rockville today with the family for a picnic, no climbing though. I just layed back on the blanket and absorbed the sun, the kids catching frogs, and thinking about nothing but peace... It was awesome.
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climbinginchico
Jun 21, 2004, 8:25 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: back to the topic... Paolo tells me the area's awesome, and he can't wait to go back... And I wanna go too! Paolo was just pulling your leg. We just went bouldering at the Nut Tree Boulders and just made up a big story about some secret awesome 40+ route containing multi-pitch sport crag with a ton more potential :lol:
Paolo- that isn't very nice! And you have me all excited to go climbing! I expect you to take me there sometime, k? With Aaron's approval of course... :lol:
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slablizard
Jun 21, 2004, 11:05 PM
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5 Pitches sport climb? Tell me at least that you are bolting on lead! :lol: AND with a hand drill of course! ANd no chalk! And no sunglasses and no water, no pissing, no nothing.
You guys rock! Now tell me that we will have a couple of 11s in that 5 pitches and you have YET ANOTHER paid pizza.
And beer too... what the hell.
Nex time I just need to rent a horse for the trail and I'm done!
GENIUS!
Donkey service up o the DTSA to pay for the bolts! And save your legs for the climbs! lol
I'll be the very first client!
DO donkey eat clif bars?
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climbinginchico
Jun 21, 2004, 11:07 PM
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In reply to: 5 Pitches sport climb? Tell me at least that you are bolting on lead! :lol: AND with a hand drill of course! ANd no chalk! And no sunglasses and no water, no pissing, no nothing. You guys rock! Now tell me that we will have a couple of 11s in that 5 pitches and you have YET ANOTHER paid pizza. And beer too... what the hell. Nex time I just need to rent a horse for the trail and I'm done! GENIUS! Donkey service up o the DTSA to pay for the bolts! And save your legs for the climbs! lol I'll be the very first client! DO donkey eat clif bars?
:lol: :lol:
you never fail to crack me up!!!
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slablizard
Jun 21, 2004, 11:17 PM
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In reply to: :lol: :lol: you never fail to crack me up!!!
But I'm serious! Think about it! you hop on the donkey and get to the crag while listening to your favourite MP3 tune and sipping your cold coffee, you look around in your binoculars searching for new crags, you get up there fresh and dandy ready to crank!
Most of all, you keep the place secret...nobody would think that those cool guys sitting over a donkey are actually 12d climbers. 8^)
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climbinginchico
Jun 21, 2004, 11:22 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: :lol: :lol: you never fail to crack me up!!! But I'm serious! Think about it! you hop on the donkey and get to the crag while listening to your favourite MP3 tune and sipping your cold coffee, you look around in your binoculars searching for new crags, you get up there fresh and dandy ready to crank! Most of all, you keep the place secret...nobody would think that those cool guys sitting over a donkey are actually 12d climbers. 8^)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
12d? speak for yourself, I'm still some time away from there. The iPod deal and no walking is enticing tho...
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slablizard
Jun 21, 2004, 11:28 PM
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In reply to: 12d? speak for yourself, I'm still some time away from there.
...details... :lol:
let's start with 5 donkeys and a cart for the packs...
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climbinginchico
Jun 21, 2004, 11:32 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: 12d? speak for yourself, I'm still some time away from there. ...details... :lol: let's start with 5 donkeys and a cart for the packs...
We both know that trailer isn't getting there behind my Alfa- you're on towing duty.
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caughtinside
Jun 22, 2004, 12:15 AM
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Nice! I told him he could get the yellow Postal jersey, since I've already got the regular. :lol:
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