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dredsovrn
Jun 23, 2004, 1:05 AM
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Just wondering. My buddy and I were out for a day of hard climbing last Saturday and were discussing committing to difficult moves on lead or not doing them at all (ie backing off). Mostly this discussion came up when one of us was stuck somewhere, and finally it came to going up or coming down.
Going for a dyno on lead seemed like a great example of committing 100% to a move. It's either all or nothing and you know that going in. That being said, I don't think I have ever tried it on lead. I have certainly lunged for some stuff and fallen, but that is probably a great example of time where I didn't commit fully.
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joshklingbeil
Jun 23, 2004, 1:09 AM
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YES
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tigerbythetail
Jun 23, 2004, 1:18 AM
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Some routes require it, the Smith Rock classic Toxic is an example -
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=5124
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roughster
Jun 23, 2004, 1:19 AM
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All the time. Dynoing on lead makes things much more interesting.
Check this out:
Killer Dyno on lead
EDIT to fix link
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telemarkist
Jun 23, 2004, 1:24 AM
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ever do the lunar leap at tuolumne? unless you're about 7 feet tall you'll have to dyno
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jcr
Jun 23, 2004, 1:28 AM
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15 ft. above last placement, adrenaline rushing through your body, blood pumping through your heart and beating 1000 beats per second, mind and body saying DONT DO IT...
you control yourself...
you take the jump...
and stick the move.
Dont know about you but I think its the BEST FEELING IN THE WORLD.
I guess thats where you separate the men from the boys.
JC
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oafy
Jun 23, 2004, 1:40 AM
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Hell ya, dyno on lead is sweet. Just make sure you got a clean fall and giver. Toxic in Smith is a killer Route and good choice for a dyno, its more like a little hop, but still pretty bomber. Anyways never back down from bolts, there goin slow you down either way, so safe climbin!. Dude if you wanna check out some sick dyno's on lead, check some of the lastest Gritstone projects goin up, you wanna see ballzy's moves.
Take care and safe climbin
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roughster
Jun 23, 2004, 1:40 AM
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fixed the link to the small video I posted above
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shaggyj
Jun 23, 2004, 2:45 AM
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You bet...
Ethnic Cleansing at Foster Falls, TN needs the leader to go dynamic and have your feet cut
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r6driver
Jun 23, 2004, 3:04 AM
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Absolutely - make sure you get some slack first :x
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angry
Jun 23, 2004, 3:30 AM
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Yep
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send513
Jun 23, 2004, 3:33 AM
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yup, but it was sport...
:shock:
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dynoguy
Jun 23, 2004, 3:35 AM
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In reply to: Some routes require it, the Smith Rock classic Toxic is an example - http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=5124
Creepy, I saw the title of this thread and emmidiately thought of Toxic. What a great example of dynoing on lead.
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jonapprill
Jun 23, 2004, 5:42 AM
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The most beautiful moment in climbing IMHO is a hard dyno on a trad lead.
2nd pitch of Mastercharge on Washbowl Cliff in the Adirondaks comes to mind. The very last move is this dyno to a sloper where (if you stick it) you find yourself hanging one handed (on a sloper) 200 ft above the pines.
Perfection.
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climbsomething
Jun 23, 2004, 6:17 AM
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The theory goes that if you can do it on toprope you can do it on lead.
Of course, this does not mean I do them on toprope either ;) I am the static queen!
And yes, a lot of hard routes require dynos (surprise surprise, this photo ain't of me and I won't be posing for it anytime soon either).
http://www.hillarydavis.com/...climbing/jaydyno.jpg
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theangryenchilada
Jun 23, 2004, 6:33 AM
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In reply to: Just wondering. My buddy and I were out for a day of hard climbing last Saturday and were discussing committing to difficult moves on lead or not doing them at all (ie backing off). Mostly this discussion came up when one of us was stuck somewhere, and finally it came to going up or coming down. Going for a dyno on lead seemed like a great example of committing 100% to a move. It's either all or nothing and you know that going in. That being said, I don't think I have ever tried it on lead. I have certainly lunged for some stuff and fallen, but that is probably a great example of time where I didn't commit fully.
i static your dyno while blowing chalk off my fingers.
nobody dynos on lead, duh. fingernails get broken that way.
do not make me taunt you a second time.
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climbingpride
Jun 23, 2004, 6:45 AM
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^Nice pic BTW climbsomething^
It's funny that i found this thread. I only admit to this next part because i know i'm not alone. Last night, while i was trying to sleep :P, I was planing how i could put a dyno into this route i recently did(Queen Creek,Magma Gardens,Rancid) for you locals. It was at the crux that there is this really crapy two finger edge which not even Sharma could use. Luckily there was an equally as crappy egde you can hook you're thumb on. This hold was still way thin and you had to pray that you're anasazis don't peel off the crust they are standing on. So after you set this hand you move the other to a moderate mono. Then you crank this mono before you slap this decent slopy sidepull and pull up to a crimpy sidpull on the oposite side. So fun to do on lead. Which kind of makes me regret the thought of skipping them.
This covers a good distance and the preceding hold to the depiction of this route is the biggest jug i've climbed on in a long time. The route is also just a wee bit past vertical adding to the dyno's posibility. I would go from the jug to these side pulls.
Ok, I'll shut up know and go back to dreaming.:D
^I know i'm not alone in this thought process.
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thinksinpictures
Jun 23, 2004, 6:53 AM
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My first lead fall ever was a half-assed dyno. I had been coaxed onto a route at least a couple grades past my limit and found myself a few feet above my last bolt looking up at a decent hold well above my static reach.
I literally *forgot* that I was on lead. Being somewhat new to leading, I hadn't taken my first plunge yet, so I didn't even consider the possibility. Plus I had a belayer that I trust implicitly; not that I was thinking about that either. I so far in "the zone" that I was drowning in it.
The move was hardly more than a deadpoint, but when I sent myself toward it I could tell halfway up that I was far short of where I needed to be. It was at the pinnacle of my lunge, that spot where you're no longer moving upward but haven't yet started to move downward, that "the zone" left me. I had just enough time to look down at the bolt seven or eight feet below my waist and think to myself with surprising calm, "oh my, this is going to be a new experience."
And then, just like in old Warner Bros. cartoons where the characters hang in mid air until the moment that they notice that there's no ground below them, I fell. It was terrifying and glorious at the same time, and the world was never quite the same way again. It was much, much better.
Disclaimer: This is a story about a well-bolted sport route. I wasn't even that high above the last bolt. The danger factor was practically nil, and only "practically" because I suppose my belayer could have just dropped me. But he didn't. See? I just saved you the trouble of trying to make fun of me.
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overlord
Jun 23, 2004, 7:22 AM
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i dyno though it still scrase the sh*t out of me. but i only do sport.
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kaczoron
Jun 23, 2004, 10:32 AM
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I have done a few, they are the best thing to stick, only sometimes I get suckered into dynos...
http://uk.f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/loupco_photo/detail?.tok=phAilABBCw8G9dY8&.dir=/6004&.dnm=cd15.jpg&.src=ph
There was nothing there but a flat polished sloper and I went back down as fast as I went up. But it made my partners day.
Dynos are definitly my favourite move on steep stuff. I just wish I was built for them.
Nick.
Edit: pitty its a bum shot, but my head ain't much better :wink:
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barefeetnochalk
Jun 23, 2004, 12:20 PM
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http://www.nadventure.com/Galleries/video/#
Check out a video here of a climb called "all you can eat" it goes at 8c. Huge dyno involved.
Its 5th row up from the bottom. Theres lots of other hard climbs on video also.
(if it ask for username and password, try casablanca and bogart :wink: )
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andy_reagan
Jun 23, 2004, 2:51 PM
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im sitting here trying to think. dynoing would not create any more force on your protection than if you had fallen statically from the peak of your dyno (right?). So by all reasoning if the only way to complete a move for you is to dyno then you should commit whether on sport, trad, or bouldering. I guess its more of a head game than a safety thing, though.
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feedmerocks
Jun 23, 2004, 4:42 PM
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i saw somebody dyno two moves in a row, on lead, on the upper crux of Directissima 5.9 (in the Gunks) last weekend
After watching the party ahead of us do this, my partner then led it with one lunge, and i followed getting both moves completely static with a high backstep/flag/sidepull/twistlock thing for the top move, and nothing special for the lower move. Granted, I am 6'3", but this was well within my reach, so I'm a little confused. Also, I'm told there are some intermediate edges in there, possibly making a dyno unnecessary.
The highest protection that my partner used was the mankiest old ring piton you've ever seen... granted, the other pin below it is a little newer, but still...
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p_grandbois
Jun 23, 2004, 4:45 PM
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Yep, I do all the time, somethimes I have too. Just place a bomber piece then go for broke.
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