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amstone
Jul 3, 2004, 12:32 PM
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Went climbing in a little known crag yesterday (won't say where incase you heard me scream and curse). Started up a fairly easy 5.7, was strattling a fin when my foot popped. I took a pendulum into a fin whose inhabitant was unhappy with the disturbance. (Hornet..) Sat still, watched the blood flow down my leg from the cuts I had received, gained my composure and decided to try a 5.9 right under the rope to avoid a pendulum....again.... started to traverse across the fin, forgot the hornet was there and damn if he didn't get me....in a very tender spot..... I screamed and cursed came down and put a cold beer on the new injury. My husband/belayer laughing at me because I had a can of beer on my crotch while my legs are quivering and I am shaking like a leaf. I was done. I could've cried. I wanted that route so badly....I didn't do a single climb after that..not even a 5.1 that my 2 year old could've mastered. I was ready to burn my gear and hang out in the eatery in Yosemite Valley with the 300 lb people and oohhh and ahhh from a distance. I can climb 10's in the gym but I just totally lose composure outside. My first climbs are miserable experiences...I shake and hyperventilate on easy 5.5's! What is going on? I am thinking that after that experiece with being intimate with the fin and then mr. hornet 'blessing' me, my next outing will be miserable as well. My head is kicking my ass....
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ecocliffchick
Jul 5, 2004, 2:59 PM
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Why were you penduluming into the rock? From your description (climbing up the 5.9 to avoid the pendulum) it sounds as though you were on top rope and that the rope was not set up over your route (the 5.7).
Don't be afraid to step up and tell your husband/belayer to move the damn anchor over your route (or move it yourself) or to put in some directionals so that you feel safe when you are climbing. Once your focus is on the rock and on your climbing- and not on your safety (or avoiding stinging insects)- you'll be flying up the .10's outside as easily as inside.
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amstone
Jul 6, 2004, 12:11 PM
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I was on top rope. The route started to the right of the anchor, traversed left and finished under the anchor. I fell at the traverse.
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gblauer
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Jul 6, 2004, 2:30 PM
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Amstone...I don't have a ton of experience...but here are my thoughts:
I always seem to get "sketched" on the first climb of the day (outdoors)...To help with that I make sure that I warm up on some really easy stuff. I find that once I have rock under my hands and I have climbed a little, I can relax and enjoy the tougher stuff (harder TR or leading).
It sounds like your simply became overwhelmed...take a break, start slowly and work your way up to the harder climbs. Remember...it's supposed to be FUN, not miserable. If you are miserable, do something different (lower grade, different partner, different area etc).
Finally, don't compare indoor climbing with outdoor climbing...It's not the same. It's a lot scarier outside!
Good luck, I hope you get back on the rock soon.
Gail
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dalguard
Jul 6, 2004, 3:54 PM
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It's natural to not want to take a second fall when the first one hurt you. You and your husband need to learn how to use directionals when a route wanders so that no one gets hurt. Just because you're on TR doesn't mean you can't get hurt - as you found out - and it doesn't mean you can't get hurt very, very badly. It has happened. If you don't know how to place gear and set up a TR already, learn and become part of the process of keeping yourself safe. Knowing that a fall is safe because you were part of making it so will help you keep your cool.
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mountainchick82
Jul 9, 2004, 3:04 PM
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Just get more time on the rock outside...I climb every weekend outside and I still get sketched on the first climb of the day until I get comfortable. Its natural...just keep climbing outside and eventually you'll be dancing up every route. And have your husband keep your confidence up by giving constructive critism and words of encouragement...your belayer should be attentive and helpful.
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caughtinside
Jul 9, 2004, 5:30 PM
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In reply to: I always seem to get "sketched" on the first climb of the day (outdoors)...To help with that I make sure that I warm up on some really easy stuff. Finally, don't compare indoor climbing with outdoor climbing...It's not the same. It's a lot scarier outside!
Good advise. I don't really get sketched, but I climb poorly if I haven't warmed up. I don't really flow.
Also, whatever you're climbing in the gym is almost completely irrelevant. I actually climb better outside, because I want it more. I find I lack motivation climbing indoors...
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kbearchk
Jul 16, 2004, 7:18 PM
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My first climbs were outside so the gym thing was anitclimactic. I've not really been on anything harder than 5.9 ouside but I haven't fallen because it's all been top rope. I have had to hang on the rope several times and I know it makes who I'm with frustrated. I have asked to be lowered so I could start over but the sting would make me want to quit for the day too.
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magpie
Jul 20, 2004, 8:36 AM
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I agree with warm-up climbs. Get your flow going. Outside is a whole different ballgame! One thing that has helped me is to just take some falls. On purpose. Get it out of the way and do it early in the day. In most TR situations, with a little care, falls tend to be small and safe. You can also get in the mindset to climb until you fall, and then do. Falling like this on TR has also helped me work on my lead fall fear.
Also, don't forget to just stop if you need to, and look around. BREATHE. Most likely you're at a gorgeous place, and you should be having fun! Laugh at yourself, and remember that it's all a part of learning new things/skills. The mental game in climbing is HUGE, obviously. I think it takes constant work. I just read The Rock Warriors Way and that helped put things into perspective too.
Take care of yourself. Don't be afraid to make your needs known, even if everyone else climbing with you is climbing harder and apparently fearlessly. Friends should be supportive- we've all been there.
Keep at it!
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amstone
Jul 24, 2004, 1:22 PM
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Attempted a 5.6 (TR) at Bubba City, got sketched, brought me to tears! Few days later, went to Summersville Lake, finished and enjoyed 5.8's, went to the New and did a 5.9 with coaching like a pro! The tears would not have been so bad had we not been surrounded by people! Anyone else been reduced to tears like that? Why do I freak on simple stuff and sail through the harder?
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maculated
Jul 24, 2004, 5:21 PM
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You were on Jamcrack on Sunnyside Bench, weren't you? That's not FAIRLY easy, it's solid for its grade. I think the bottom pitch (the 5.7) is harder than the 5.9 pitch. Some would say that it's a test piece. Next time, make your leader set a directional. That was irresponsible of him or her.
I've seen a phenomenon when people go to the gym for their primary climbing and when they go outside they turn into a shaking leaf. This is nothing new, it's just that you go into a much less controlled environment, and you come expecting something out of yourself.
Trust me, 5.10 in a gym doesn't mean jack in the world. There's all kinds of climbs, and try as they might, holds don't perfectly emulate them. Also, the routes aren't as straightforward, and they are set up so . . . gasp . .. you might get hurt.
Climb outside more. Don't bring any numbers into the game.
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amstone
Aug 24, 2004, 5:42 AM
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Went back to same crag this Sunday....Looked at the rock again and decided this rock wasn't worth my distress. I climbed a bit and put it behind me. Wasp was still there.... Friend of mine concured and after a half dozen climbs between us, we hiked down the creek and called it a day. I think I realized I need to play my own game and enjoy the sport for what it is, take the good climbs with the bad and be all in the moment. cliches a plenty but whining about it didn't get my fat a$$ up the route either...Score one for Stone.
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