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powrslave
Jul 8, 2004, 5:29 PM
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Well, first time lead climbing since I quit climbing 5 years ago when I was like 16 or so.
Anyway, my gf and I basically just walked into a gym, I gave her a quick rundown of lead climbing/belaying and we took the test.
Second route of the day big overhang, tops out at 28 feet. Chalk ball = mandatory. Worthless sweaty hands and a hidden hold I didn't see. Blew the final dual clip (my clip technique no longer exists) and next thing I knew I was about 5 feet off the ground with a whole lot of perplexed faces looking at me and a less than happy gym staff. Overslacking wasn't an issue, but I did pull out a lot trying to reach that final clip.
She stopped the fall with much skill I believe, though she didn't want to try the route afterwards. She used a Trango Jaws.
Exciting. Especially with a first time belayer.
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gds
Jul 8, 2004, 5:35 PM
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I'd think about that climb a bit.
If you blew only the last clip and wound up within 5' of the floor something was very wrong. Not being there I don't know what it was but if I were you I'd want to know before trying to lead again.
By implication if you blew the next to last clip you could have decked and that should not be the case.
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deleted
Deleted
Jul 8, 2004, 5:47 PM
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woah dude
whipper in the gym? send it in to the mags brahbroham
eeepiiiccc
love, mandrew
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slablizard
Jul 8, 2004, 5:56 PM
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:)
Grab the anchor if you're shacky next time man.Then clip.
Getting hurt in a gym is not worthy.
Good to hear that your're back leading after 5 years!
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powrslave
Jul 10, 2004, 2:58 PM
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I did grab the anchor but could only get two fingers through the biner and my hands were sweaty and I came off.
I wish I never quit.
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j_ung
Jul 10, 2004, 3:31 PM
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Not to sound cliche, but did you happen to learn anything from this other than that you shouldn't have quit five years ago? I only ask because, from the details you've provided, your near miss seems to have been easily preventable.
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j_ung
Jul 10, 2004, 3:49 PM
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In reply to: I'd think about that climb a bit. If you blew only the last clip and wound up within 5' of the floor something was very wrong. Not being there I don't know what it was but if I were you I'd want to know before trying to lead again. By implication if you blew the next to last clip you could have decked and that should not be the case.
I'm certain we both know why he almost decked, but I'd like to see if he can figure it out.
powerslave?
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c-money
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Jul 10, 2004, 6:07 PM
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Was Darwin in the house?
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tahoe_rock_master
Jul 10, 2004, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: whipper in the gym? send it in to the mags brahbroham eeepiiiccc
Yeah, a gym epic? :roll: :roll: :roll:
Matt
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simianboy
Jul 10, 2004, 8:35 PM
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Dude, don't bother clipping if you are in a dire situation so close to the ground. Hanging on to a carabiner with two sweaty fingers and feeling them slipping - just ask for take and let go. I'm sure your girl won't think any less of you if you do that ;)
Also, I'm sure you'll get the hang of pulling just enough rope to clip in (instead of 10 feet of rope), as you keep leading.
Keep on climbing.
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missedyno
Jul 11, 2004, 1:35 PM
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hmmm. your belayer had never lead belayed before right? if i'm reading that correctly...
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climb_plastic
Jul 12, 2004, 5:04 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'd think about that climb a bit. If you blew only the last clip and wound up within 5' of the floor something was very wrong. Not being there I don't know what it was but if I were you I'd want to know before trying to lead again. By implication if you blew the next to last clip you could have decked and that should not be the case. I'm certain we both know why he almost decked, but I'd like to see if he can figure it out. powerslave?
If he can't do the math and figure it out then he (and gf) shouldn't be leading. The real problem I have with the story is that the gym should be ashamed of itself for letting you lead (what gym is that? I'd really like to know). I don't see how someone he just "gave a quick rundown of lead climbing/belaying" could show safe lead belay and lead climbing technique to pass a test. At my gym they watch you belay and climb. They watch everything you do as you belay and climb and when the climber gets above 25 feet they are required to take a fall. Furthermore, if you tell them that you haven't lead in 5 years and you just ran through it with your partner then they won't let guys do it....especially her...she's not even qualified to take the TR test with a gri-gri at my gym.
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climbsomething
Jul 12, 2004, 5:48 AM
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In reply to: just ask for take and let go. |
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climb_plastic
Jul 12, 2004, 5:50 AM
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oh and I have to add this comment....even if the gym is negligent enough to let her belay, you should know better than that. Would you, as a trad climber, just do a quick rundown of lead belaying and let her belay you outdoors? Then why would you let her do it indoors?
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woahmanthatssick
Jul 12, 2004, 6:50 AM
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Your belayer must have not known what to do. She just couldnt handle it and freaked. Man, its alright to grab something, anything in the gym. Its not worth it to bail and deck it in the gym. Its just not cool. Anyways, what was the rating on the route. It's "kinda" cooler if you go all out on like a 13d or something.
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