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prairie_climber
May 4, 2002, 2:04 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2002
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Just a question, I know it is not safe to lead with a static rope, but is it safe to top rope with a static rope,
Just woundering
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dontneedfeet
May 4, 2002, 2:26 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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As long as your belayer doesn't suck.
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sistersboulderingarea
May 4, 2002, 2:27 AM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2002
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bad idea!
static rope is for resuce the the military falling out of helocopters.
I would bet that its safer that leading with static.
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beyond_gravity
May 4, 2002, 2:57 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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Yup, It's safe as long as your belayer does not leave tons of slack, otherwise u'll get a ball buster.
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krustyklimber
May 4, 2002, 3:48 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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Yes it is O.K., it's actually one of my favorite ways to get my money's worth out of my static rope! I always use it when two ropes are needed to toprope a climb, there's too much stretch in two dyna ropes!
Jeff
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apollodorus
May 4, 2002, 3:55 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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Yeah, safe if the belayer is good and makes sure there is no slack. A static line has a little bit of stretch to it, but will still load your balls and the anchors quite a bit if there is any slack.
Actually, it will be your sacral-lumbar (lower back) vertebrae that take the Big Hit if you fall on a static line with some slack in it.
A bigger problem is the shock loading to the anchors in this type of situation. You could conceivably break old bolt hangers, or pull bolts, or snap small stopper wire. The stretch in a dynamic rope reduces forces tremendously. That's why it's the usual thing to use.
If you're going to use a static rope, use an ATC, Sticht plate, or similar belay device. Don't use a Gri-Gri, or anything that will totally lock up under load. The ATC or Sticht plate will tend to give a bit under a heavy load, acting as a dynamic element in the system.
Basically, though, just make sure there is no slack and you'll be fine.
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