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climbin_moo
Jul 15, 2004, 10:52 PM
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Registered: Jan 18, 2003
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Hey Ya'll
I know this is a really silly question due to the subjectivity, BUT:
Id like to know how people who've been climbing in europe (especially FR, CH) think the french grades correspond to YDS.
Ive seen a bunch of different charts on the web but some of them are different by a full number grade in places! I keep feeling like everything is hard over here because Im not used to the style of the rocks. ... I'd like some sort of reference, especially for grades 6 though 7.
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overlord
Jul 16, 2004, 6:24 AM
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im kinda used to this one:
5.5 4something
5.6 4soemthing
5.7 5a
5.8 5b
5.9 5c
5.10a 6a
5.10b 6a+
5.10c 6b
5.10d 6b+
5.11a 6c
5.11b 6c+
5.11c 7a
5.11d 7a+
then it gets a bit more difficult because the intervals between grades are different, but its no biggie, youll do fine if you just continue with the sequence and you shouldnt be more tahn a half french off
5.12a 7b
5.12b 7b+
5.12c 7c
5.12d 7c+
5.13a 8a
5.13b 8a+
5.14a 8b+
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therealdeal
Jul 19, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2002
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From all the accounts I've ever seen ... and from just hanging out in France 3 weeks ago and speaking w/ folks there...that conversion chart is incorrect.
11d, 7a
12a, 7a+
12b, 7b
12c, 7b+
12d, 7c
13a, 7c+
13b, 8a
13c, 8a+
13d, 8b
14a, 8b+
14b, 8c
14c, 8c+
14d, 9a
Realization, La Rambla Extension, 9a+
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slablizard
Jul 19, 2004, 10:00 PM
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Yup!
7a is the "turning point" where the change of difficulty is more evident.
In reply to: 11d, 7a Realization, La Rambla Extension, 9a+ |
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curt
Jul 19, 2004, 10:06 PM
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FYI,
These are now officially known as Freedom Grades. Please try to pay attention. :D
Curt
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pbjosh
Jul 19, 2004, 10:09 PM
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In reply to: From all the accounts I've ever seen ... and from just hanging out in France 3 weeks ago and speaking w/ folks there...that conversion chart is incorrect. 11d, 7a 12a, 7a+ 12b, 7b 12c, 7b+ 12d, 7c 13a, 7c+ 13b, 8a 13c, 8a+ 13d, 8b 14a, 8b+ 14b, 8c 14c, 8c+ 14d, 9a Realization, La Rambla Extension, 9a+
This seems to be the most understood translation, by far.
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happyfra
Jul 27, 2004, 7:35 PM
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Another factor you should consider about French grades is that, in general, in France grades and a little higher than in Italy or Germany, more or less 7a in France is likely to be graded 6c or 6c+ in Italy or Germany.
Maybe this could also explain some different transations.
Hope this is helpful
Francesco
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andy_reagan
Jul 27, 2004, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2004
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so you're saying the frenchies are soft? :lol:
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deafears
Jul 27, 2004, 8:17 PM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2003
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From my experience, this much is correct:
11d, 7a
12a, 7a+
12b, 7b
12c, 7b+
12d, 7c
13a, 7c+
I don't agree that Germany and Italy are universally stiffer than France ... that depends totally on the crags you visit. Just like in the US of A, older crags are generally graded stiffer than newer ones (in Europe, much of the disparity seems to be from the limestone getting more and more polished with age -- just like at Rifle!)
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happyfra
Jul 27, 2004, 8:36 PM
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Well, of course it depends on the crags and the areas you consider, but in general I found that in the 6 and 7 range routes in France are in general slightly easier than in Italy and Germany. You are also right that in the years the mood changed.
Francesco
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thomasribiere
Jul 31, 2004, 9:21 AM
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^ I strongly disagree with that. As my climbing experience embraces France, Italy, Swiss, and Germany, I have an idea on the subject. And the differences are more evident between two crags than between two countries. By example, Sardinia looked easier to me than Finale and easier to me than some areas in the French Jura. And how to compare the long slabs of Jerzł and the short pumpy routes of Frankenjura?
So the translation scale might not very accurate, but in general the variations are just from one letter or a +, so it's not a big deal.
The only reference to be used should be the scale in the crag itself. As when you hit Fontainebleau for the first time, you discover a new world, and the rating system is entirely part of it...
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overlord
Jul 31, 2004, 10:28 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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i agree, though i havet really climbed in different countries.
here you can climb a 7a in once crag or even section, but barely make it up a 6b in another section (or crag).
a few years ago i climbed a .10 no problem, but the .8 NEXT to it shot me down cold.
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