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joker
Aug 3, 2004, 2:55 AM
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I have been climbing for three years now, and i'm looking to going to watch comps and my participate in a few. But, i don't know the rules, please someone help me.
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saskclimber
Aug 3, 2004, 3:20 AM
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Depends on how serious the comps are. The couple that I've been in (bouldering), were just a bunch of people in a climbing gym, and the scoring was pretty much based on the honor system. If its a serious comp (PCA run etc...) then they have all the climbers in isolation before they climb, then they take you out and you have 5 minutes or something to go and do the problem. They also keep track of the number of falls/tries you take in the serious one with judges watching your every move. As far as little rules go (flagging, aretes...) each comp will usually define that at the beginning of the competition. I'm pretty sure the same goes for sport climbing comps, where alot of the "for fun" ones are based on the honor system, and the more serious ones have climbers go one at a time, and you're in isolation prior to the climb. Either way, ask at the gym where the comp will be, and they'll likely be able to tell you how it'll work long before the competition date even comes.
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musicman
Aug 3, 2004, 3:34 AM
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i'm sure that the judges will go over it all before the comp. you won't be the only one doing it for the first time. i'd also like to get into some comps, that'd be rad.
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ikefromla
Aug 3, 2004, 5:16 AM
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T1
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rrrADAM
Aug 3, 2004, 6:02 AM
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Read through the Forum this is being moved to...
It's entitled "Compitition Climbing". :wink:
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rrrADAM
Aug 3, 2004, 6:07 AM
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rrradam moved this thread from General to Competition Climbing.
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overlord
Aug 3, 2004, 8:55 AM
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that depends on the comp.
if its difficulty (sport) than itll most likely be done on lead. there are two ways they do it.
one is the on-sight. you have some time (usually about 10mins) to preview the route from the floor (you can touch whatever holds you can reach without stepping off the floor), then go back into isolation until its your time to climb. then youll have some time (usually 10-15mins) to climb the route. you have about 1min to view the whole route once more, than you have to start climbing.
the other is the flash way, where someone climbs the route (usually the setter) and then you can either watch all others climb or go back into isolation, it again depends on the comp.
in both "modes" you must clip every pro on your route or youre not allowed to continue. if you dont finish, the result is the highest hold you touch (if its the hold at say 10m and you just touch it, your result is 10-, if you hold it, its 10 and if you make a move with it, but dont reach the next hold its 10+)
if its a bouldering comp, it usually so that you have 5mins to climb a boulder. they can score by like the difficulty comp, or you have a hold roughly halfway through the boulder that is the "zone" and count for half the ascent. the lees tries it takes you to climb the problem the better your score.
another way is to assign points for boulders and you have the whole day to get as many points as possible.
speed comps are usually dont on TR and the result is the time it takes you to complete the climb.
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