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climber_osu
Jul 16, 2004, 4:32 AM
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I am headed to Colorado with a few climbing buddies from Oklahoma for a week and we have never been there. I just got the climb Colorado guide book and was looking for the best spot to hit. We climb trad up to 5.8-9 and want to do some multipitch. We want to camp if possible. I also dont like hiking much but am willing walk if it will get me high. Also, are there any other guide books that you would recomend?
--Thanks for any insight you can provide.
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nthusiastj
Jul 16, 2004, 4:44 AM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
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Lumpy ridge in RMNP.
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dlintz
Jul 16, 2004, 4:52 AM
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Rossiter's guide for Eldorado Canyon. Easy access but finding close camping will be your toughest challenge.
Doug
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mike_the_sumo
Jul 16, 2004, 4:58 AM
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I'll second Eldo canyon and the Rossiter guide. Neptune mountaineering is nearby there, they'll have it
http://www.neptunemountaineering.com/
If you haven't already, check out the searchable database at ClimbingBoulder.com
http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/
6 more days and I'm moving back there...
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lv2climb7
Jul 16, 2004, 5:12 AM
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55555555555
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angelaa
Jul 16, 2004, 4:22 PM
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really depends on what you're into
Shelf Road near Canyon City is good if you like sport climbing and there is (or used to be) free camping around there.
Also, since you are probably coming up from the south anyway there is always Turkey Rocks or 11 mile canyon - south of the Denver area.
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mother_sheep
Jul 16, 2004, 4:28 PM
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Lumpy and Eldo. Do both if you can. If you climb at Lumpy, you can camp up in RMNP! KEWL!!! If you climb in Eldo, you can camp at Golden Gate Canyon State Park. I believe that may be the closest campground to Eldo. The climbing at either place is spectacular. Both places are very different in their own way and both can be very challenging. You can do multi-pitch climbs in both areas and still stay in the moderate grades.
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killclimbz
Jul 16, 2004, 4:56 PM
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Turkey Rocks and all the other various South Platte locals would be another great option. Plenty of multi pitch routes there sans crowds. Lot's of camping too.
Eldo and RMP are the classics for sure. There is also a lot of trad and sport in Boulder Canyon and the Flatirons. Really you can't go wrong with any of the areas that have been mentioned. Camping just tends to be more of a pain around the Boulder/Eldo area.
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mike_the_sumo
Jul 16, 2004, 5:01 PM
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In reply to: There is also a lot of trad and sport in Boulder Canyon and the Flatirons
http://www.climbingboulder.com/resources/closures/
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fredrogers
Jul 16, 2004, 5:32 PM
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It's getting a bit hot in CO now. Lumpy is at higher elevation than Eldo so it's cooler up there. RMNP is pretty popular with tourists so finding a campsite isn't super easy but you should manage. Lumpy has great mulitpitch at about every grade from 5.6 and up. Expect to hike about 35-60minutes to the cliffs. You could also do alpine routes up in the Par. You will have to deal with long hikes and the shuttle bus but climbing on Spearhead is worth it. Your Rockclimbing CO guide should suffice and maybe supplement with beta from www.climbingboulder.com
Boulder is an hour away and you could climb in the Flatirons and Eldo...but with only one week I personally would just stay up in RMNP and enjoy myself.
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scrappydoo
Jul 16, 2004, 6:50 PM
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If you're coming through S. CO (Pueblo) and have a truck or SUV, you can head West for another 1 1/2 to the Sangre De Cristo's and do the Ellingwood Arete (sometimes called 'Ellingwood ledges') on Crestone Needle. It's mostly unroped 4th class scrambling with a crux headwall neer the top that goes at 5.7. you can also do a direct start that goes at 5.4-5.6, depending on route.
http://climbingboulder.com/rock/db/rmnp_alpine/the_crestones/ellingwood_ledges.html
Its one of the '50 classic climbs' and truly deserves that title (climbed it this 7/4)
There's a 4x4 road to get into the valley (takes ~2hrs) but it dumps you out at 10,500ft 3-4miles from the base of the climb. There's camping all over the place, even at the foot (and, rejoice, campfires are allowed). This is an alpine climb though, topping out at 14,1-- something, and requires an alpine start.
If yer' leading 5.8-9 trad, spend a day or two in eldorado canyon (eldo) and do Ruper and Yellow Spur, which are beautiful, classic lines (as well as the Bastille, just so you can say you did). Then, head to Estes Park and climb at lumpy ridge.
You can find all this info at climbingboulder.com.
$.02
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tarsier
Jul 17, 2004, 8:20 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2003
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RMNP - the approaches tend to be several hours but there are some amazing routes. The backcountry office is 970 586 1242.
Halfway between Boulder and RMNP you can camp (and climb) in the St. Vrain Canyon on highway 7 just south of Lyons.
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sketchypro
Jul 19, 2004, 9:58 PM
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Black Canyon
:twisted:
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climber_osu
Jul 27, 2004, 4:40 AM
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Thanks for the info. We have decided to start the week in RMNP and then just play things by ear. What is the best place to stay in the area?
Thanks,
Drew
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pheenixx
Jul 27, 2004, 5:33 PM
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Any Nat. forest road usually leads to a secluded area to throw down a pad, or look for little triangle "camping" sign. Any place out of the way is usually free game unless it says --"Don't camp here" --
Personally, I would have suggested starting in 11-mile canyon. Close convienent camping, water, fishing, solid granite trad - what more could you ask for...just 40 min west of Col.Springs (west of Pike's Pike). But what do I know -- I live in Phx...
Have fun... :lol:
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killclimbz
Jul 27, 2004, 5:38 PM
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I would check for camping at the visitors center by the entrance to the park. You should not have any problems finding camping, availability could be a problem. There is free camping around the area to. I'm not sure where to go because it's a day trip for me to RMNP.
Definitely get out early on whatever you are doing. It's been a rather cool and wet summer. You can expect thunderstorms by early afternoon and you really don't want to be on the rock when that happens.
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allarounder
Jul 27, 2004, 5:59 PM
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For RMNP crags and/or peaks, pick up Bernard Gillet's guide(s). They have the most current info and better topos. There's a lot of rock in the Estes Park area. Have fun!
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cliffmonkey2003
Jul 27, 2004, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: For RMNP crags and/or peaks, pick up Bernard Gillet's guide(s). They have the most current info and better topos. There's a lot of rock in the Estes Park area. Have fun!
Where would you recommend we go to find one of Gillet's guides? We will be heading into CO from the East through Kansas and will be most likely going through Denver to get to RMNP. Also, neither one of us has ever done an alpine climb before, but we're thinking of doing the North Ridge of Spearhead. We know about thunderstorms and early starts, but is there any other advice/warnings anyone can provide? Thanks for the help so far guys.
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cliffmonkey2003
Jul 27, 2004, 6:35 PM
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Also, while we're in CO, we'll be taking a side trip to Leadville to look at Colorado Mountain School. What are your suggestions for spending maybe a half a day in that area climbing? If there isn't much there, we will boulder, and apparently there's some good bouldering in Independence Pass, but we prefer to trad climb and like climber_osu said, we climb at low to moderate grades.
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killclimbz
Jul 27, 2004, 7:18 PM
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Plenty of climbing on Independence Pass. Check out Monitor rock on the East side. That will probably be the closest climbing. You can also go over to the west side and climb at the Grotto and some other areas by Aspen. Perhaps some of the Aspen locals on this site can give you better beta.
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mikeok
Aug 3, 2004, 2:53 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2002
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I was out there the first part of July and though we didn't stop there, the Sangre de Cristo range looked interesting (Westcliff area). Plus, they are the first "real" mountains you encounter if you will be coming from the Stillwater area. It took us about 12 hours to get to this point from east of Tulsa in a Jeep, so a real vehicle could make that trip in probably 8 hours or less.
We climbed around the Maroon Bells area, NW of Crested Butte (my favorite place in the world) but the rock is really REALLY cruddy.
Get the Gerry Roach books, I found them along with some of the Jeep guidebooks to be a big help. I'm trying to work out another trip around Labor Day weekend but so far it's looking a little grim. Have fun!
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cliffmonkey2003
Aug 6, 2004, 3:00 AM
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Thanks for the tips guys. The trip was great while it lasted, but was cut quite short, because of a little mistake. I'll post a TR when I can type with both hands again. I definitely recommend Lumpy and the act of meticulously reading guidebooks. This has just about sealed my decision to move to CO.
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