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youreup
Aug 9, 2004, 9:28 PM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Nov 10, 2003
Posts: 44
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IMHO, The Line is a trad route but not a true crack climb and doesn't qualify.
Nabisco Wall via Butterballs (instead of Wheat Thin which has bolts due to the fragility of the flake) gets my vote.
Serenity is tainted by the first pitch scars that make it a crack climb.
Blues Riff before the first pitch fell off was classic since the top of the 1st involved some ow, 2nd has the classic thin fingers and hands, and 3rd involves liebacking.
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jliebgott
Aug 9, 2004, 9:47 PM
Post #27 of 36
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Registered: May 22, 2003
Posts: 59
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In reply to: Serenity is tainted by the first pitch scars that make it a crack climb.
TAINTED? Then damn near the whole ditch is tainted.
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kalcario
Aug 10, 2004, 3:27 AM
Post #28 of 36
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*Blues Riff before the first pitch fell off was classic*
what's it like now?
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youreup
Aug 11, 2004, 12:45 AM
Post #29 of 36
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Registered: Nov 10, 2003
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In reply to: *Blues Riff before the first pitch fell off was classic* what's it like now?
A couple of sporty moves on choss protected by a bolt leads to an easy hand crack.
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iamthewallress
Aug 11, 2004, 12:52 AM
Post #30 of 36
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
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3 pitches is pretty specific.
I'll vote for Reid's Direct or the Slack via Sacherer Cracker (I don't climb hard enough to have gone up the La Escuela way...)
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slobmonster
Aug 11, 2004, 1:41 AM
Post #31 of 36
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
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I climbed The Line (@ Lovers Leap) last week, and it's excellent. A *face* route? Not quite.
Some other suggestions (some probably repeats):
Gamesmanship, 5.8+, Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks, NY
Pistol Whipped, 5.12, Indian Creek, Canyonlands, UT
Recompense/Recom-Beast, 5.9+, Cathedral Ledge, NH
Lightning Bolt Cracks, 5.11, North Sixshooter, Canyonlands, UT
Jah-Man, 5.10+, Sister Superior, Castleton Valley, UT
Vertigo, 5.9, Cannon Cliff, NH
Women In Love, 5.11+, Cathedral Ledge, NH
The Green Spur, 5.9, Eldorado Canyon, CO
Fantasy Ridge, 5.9, Lumpy Ridge, CO
There are really too many to list. These days any 3-pitch crack climb is a good one... provided there aren't a dozen parties on it.
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bootyhead
Aug 11, 2004, 5:05 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 25
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My vote (although biased, since I put up the route)goes to Shangri-La in Lost Canyon, Sedona Arizona The sandstone on this route is harder than any Wingate I've been on and the setting is unsurpassed. No link for y'all but there is a photo in Climbing issue186. As far as a12c 3 pitch sandstone crack route with over an hour approach goes, this is the "best three pitch crack route in the USA".
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dynobelay
Aug 14, 2004, 5:34 PM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 73
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Psychotic Reaction 5.8+ at Champe Rocks in West Virginia might be the best 3 pitch (3 full pitches too!) crack climb in the East. Quite exposed too. (I liked it more than either Recompense or Gamesmanship)
Out west there are so many. But I favor Thin Ice 5.10- at The Needles. It's really only two and a half pitches, but pure crack and wonderful exposure and scenery.
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granitegod
Aug 16, 2004, 3:02 AM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 340
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I was trying to think if Triple Overhangs on Lone Peak would go in 3....but the above route (Vertical Smile/Triple O linkup) is described by many to be a superior variation (see my photos, ref'd above). Although I haven't done it, it gets my vote, simply because the crux of Triple O's is my favorite pitch ever, in a tremendous alpine cirque with great rock.
The other route I would second would be the North Face of Castleton. I've rapped it twice.....can't wait till I find some hardwoman to take me up that sucker! Steph Davis, are you free August 28th - 29th?
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pt
Aug 16, 2004, 3:40 AM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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Here's a link up on the Book at Lumpy Ridge that may qualify: Thindependance to Loose Ends to Cheap Date.
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