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steve_in_scotland
Aug 25, 2004, 12:43 PM
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Hi,
I'll be in the Phoenix area on October 14 and 15th and would like to do some trad or sport climbing. I'm over from scotland and will only have personal gear so can you spare some time and bring a rope and a rack?
I'm thinking maybe trad routes in the 5.6 to 5.9 range would be great, multi-pitch even better, but sport is ok.
I'm very experienced in Europe and the States and I'll buy the beer afterwards.
Thanks for any replies
Steve
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reno
Aug 25, 2004, 4:53 PM
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PM me when you get to town, and I'll be happy to show you the areas I know of...
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steve_in_scotland
Aug 26, 2004, 1:57 PM
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In reply to: PM me when you get to town, and I'll be happy to show you the areas I know of...
Hey thanks man, which areas would you recommend (so I can look before I travel) ???
Steve
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from_the_gym
Aug 26, 2004, 2:50 PM
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I will have school those days, but some of the good sport areas include the pit, homestead, queen creak, jacks canyon...not sure about trad, still to new into the sport to try that, but one day...
anyway, hope this helps somewhat, have a great trip, let us know what you think of our climbing areas here in az.
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reno
Aug 26, 2004, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: PM me when you get to town, and I'll be happy to show you the areas I know of... Hey thanks man, which areas would you recommend (so I can look before I travel) ???
My pleasure.
I've enjoyed clipping bolts at the Pit (le Petit Verdon) but much prefer trad lines in Sullivan's Canyon or Paradise Forks.
Jack's Canyon is also good, I've been told, but as I've never been there, I can't offer first hand beta.
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from_the_gym
Aug 26, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Reno, if you can imagine a climbing gym built around outdoor sport routes, then you have imagined Jacks canyon. Very well protected with many many lines to choose from. Limestone rock. Just dont lower off of the shuts up top, many have and they have become very thin. Please rappell if you guys ever get the urge to do some Jacks climbing.
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steve_in_scotland
Sep 1, 2004, 12:55 PM
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Thanks for the beta guys.
Wow, Paradise Forks looks good!!! How long is the drive from Phoenix?
Cheers
Steve
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reno
Sep 1, 2004, 3:30 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for the beta guys. Wow, Paradise Forks looks good!!! How long is the drive from Phoenix?
Three hours in my Jeep.
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pheenixx
Sep 1, 2004, 3:51 PM
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Reno ~
May I suggest a backup plan in case the elevation routes get an early brushing of snow (unless u-want it).
Queen Creek is quite nice at that time. "Atlantis" and "Looner Land" offer nice sport/mix. Granite Mtn in Prescott offers an awesome granite multi-p selection 4-da day. Brew-pup located in town after.
Teddy Bear wall and Lookout Mtn both face south and offer nc warmup options close to town -- After go to bre-pubs = Papago's or 4 Peaks...and don't forget about Tom's Thumb..!! Get 'em up high..!! Jesus we're only at 1500 ft here...Yeikes..!!
Reno --PM me if ya go to Jack's -- I'll be happy to escort cha 'round... :lol:
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reno
Sep 1, 2004, 4:24 PM
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In reply to: Reno ~ May I suggest a backup plan in case the elevation routes get an early brushing of snow (unless u-want it).
Snow? In Arizona?? Woo hoo! It'll be like an alpine route, without the 2 am start. I'll bring my ice ax and crampons.
Seriously, though... thanks for the input. Much of this will depend on what Steve-in-Scotland wants to do. QC is a good option, though, and one I forgot.
In reply to: Reno --PM me if ya go to Jack's -- I'll be happy to escort cha 'round... :lol:
Will do... you coming this weekend?
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pheenixx
Sep 1, 2004, 4:52 PM
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In reply to: Will do... you coming this weekend?
Heading down tomorrow from Co. Will cya Fri eve @ the campfire...k
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claramie
Sep 1, 2004, 5:03 PM
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I also have class those days, but if you want multipitch trad I suggest either Sedona for sandstone cracks, or Cochise Stronghold for granite. Three climbs in Coshise are Wasteland, Moby Dick, and Beeline.
Three in Sedona are Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride, Mars Attacks and The Mace.
Sport stuff is everywhere.
Clayton
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pheenixx
Sep 1, 2004, 5:15 PM
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In reply to: I also have class those days, but if you want multipitch trad I suggest either Sedona for sandstone cracks, or Cochise Stronghold for granite. Three climbs in Coshise are Wasteland, Moby Dick, and Beeline.
Cochise is perfect in Oct/Nov. I recommend going with someone who knows the approach...The "Stronghold" is well know for strong-aming ur time away with buskwacky routefinding.
:arrow: :roll: :?: :arrow: :?:
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sonso45
Sep 1, 2004, 5:57 PM
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Steve, how hard do you climb and how much time do you have for climbing? October should be quite warm in Phx for a Scot. Shady rocks are your best bet and it depends on when you can get there if staying near Phx. M
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steve_in_scotland
Sep 3, 2004, 3:06 PM
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help.
To give you an idea. In the US I've climbed 5.10 sport at Castle Rocks near SFO, done 5.7 Snake Dike on Half-Dome, soloed 5.6 at Stoney Point, LA, done 5.8 on Whitehorse Ledge in New Hampshire, been to Josh twice but only on my own so did'nt do a lot. Back in the UK I lead E1 5b on trad pretty regular but also do a lot of HVS and VS routes. I think our E1 is your 5.10. In a new area I'm gonna want to do 5.8/5.9 and maybe 5.10 if its one of them good days.
I just love climbing in the sun and thats something its hard to do in Scotland!
I love to climb where there is history and atmosphere and good vibes. I loved being in the Valley and getting a route done there was a big ambition of mine. In Josh I wanted to try Stem Gem because Lynn Hill is one of my heroes (great ethics) and there is a picture of her on it in her book and even though I failed to get off the ground it was great just to try.
So I'd like to do some single or multi pitch routes preferably in a natural environment, either sport or trad, trade stories with you guys, learn about a new area, and have a few beers after. Something within 2 or maybe 3 hours of Phoenix would be great.
I'll only have one day for climbing but I can make an alpine start and finish late and I'll have a car so I can drive and meet you or I can offer a lift. I will get the beers in afterwards and if you ever get to Scotland I'm your man.
Cheers
Steve
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pheenixx
Sep 10, 2004, 3:17 AM
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Hey Steve - If you only have one day for climbing - if you can, get your driving done the night before (if your headed 2-3 hrs away) then get your alpine start on the wall. Drive back at the end of the day. Traffic & time will eat your day up if you leave at peak times in and out of Phx for 2-3 hr driving + you may get stuck in traffic on the 17. THis comes from 4 yrs exp climbing here in AZ/Phx.
Otherwise -- I suggest climbing on stuff closer to town (McDowells, Pinn Peak). Queen Crk is the only place I see as doable to leave early -- climb all day and drive back without sacrificing a burn-bum sitting in the car all day..! Just my .02. :)
~phx~
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steve_in_scotland
Sep 15, 2004, 4:09 PM
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In reply to: Hey Steve - If you only have one day for climbing - if you can, get your driving done the night before (if your headed 2-3 hrs away) ~phx~
Thanks for the input but I'll be forced to enjoy a good meal and a few beers with the wife and her mates the night before so I cannot leave until the morning.
Cheers
Steve
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