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taraus_de_bull
Sep 3, 2004, 11:44 PM
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Does anyone have any info on the guy's who bolted it? if so, please post up or pm me.
The growth is bad, definately needs some trail work done.
two new boulder problems put up in the upper area.
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taraus_de_bull
Sep 6, 2004, 1:00 AM
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anyone?
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balloonknot
Sep 8, 2004, 10:36 AM
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I recently met a guy on the new chains at Alapocas who claimed to have set the older bolts approximatly 10 years ago. He said his name was Sam and that he climbs over there regularly along with Gunks etc. He was pretty cool and offered to go into some of the history of the place the next time I bump into him.
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boulder_oatmealbowls
Nov 28, 2006, 6:10 PM
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hey are ou the guy i saw at rockfprd park with your dog??
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jgivens
Nov 28, 2006, 7:09 PM
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Not really any point in this response, just to say hi to another Delaware climber. Those bolts have been there a long time, if your talking about the ones on the lower slab of the mill-cut. Thats a hard route.
I helped Fred Bohm and crew put up some of the area problems (Chief Thunderlose, Boss Hog, etc..) You guys still developing the area?
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roclimb
Nov 29, 2006, 3:42 AM
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Grant Horner
Ed Mystraka
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hyrax
Nov 29, 2006, 3:44 AM
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Hello -
I am the guy with the dog. I think you were with the group of 4 working on Spacklehead. I was out there this morning. You guys chalked some holds that I had never thought of using. I tried to follow your sequence but never did figure it out.
There are a number of us who boulder regularly in Rockford and Alapocas. We are working a number of new problems in the area. Nothing major but we are very active - 3-4 times per week.
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boulder_oatmealbowls
Dec 2, 2006, 2:44 PM
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nice i thought that was you... we are gping over to alapocas today, i went there the other day for a few hrs and was working on the highball bolted climb.. could you give me some direction as to where the better boulders are there isnt really any good direction on rockclimbing.com.. thanks
mike
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climbingbeerman
Aug 23, 2014, 8:00 PM
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I stumbled on Alapocas woods after finding the boulders at Rockford. I figured there might be more stuff upstream. Went to the Fertile Cresent wall first (see the post I just put up on that route). This was early Fall of '88. I then met Steve Barzak, Joe Zubaly and Bruce Morris. They had been climbing at Alapocas since the mid-eighties. They took me over to Rambo and Gray streak. Back then, we thought the idea of bolting that little wall was absurd. We'd scramble up and sling the massive ring anchor and TR the lower routes. We'd also set up the upper wall (a couple of cams in the horizontal for an anchor). From the ledge above the Rambo / Gray Streak wall, there are two, short blast drill scars. Take the left scar: layback, smear up onto a thin friction face, angle up right to an upper blast drill scar and lay it back to the top. Joe was the first I saw get this (on TR). We figured it went at 10+ and always referred to it as "Joe's Wall". From the same ledge, take the right blast drill scar and follow it straight to the top. Joe got this one, too, but none of the rest of us ever did. Seemed like hard 5.11. ("Joe's Wall direct").
A couple years later, Bruce Morris and I put up "Angie's' Wall". It's the line a hundred or so feet downstream from Fertile Crescent. We TRed it a couple times, and would have just left it as a TR route, but the set up was treacherous. We had to scramble on the steep terrain above and rap down to the tree at the top of the route. As much as we despise bolts, it made sense to set up this line. I rap bolted it in 92 or 93. (The cat's out of the bag, now. I'm gonna burn in Hell). I told everyone it was 5.8, but that might be a sandbag. It might be 5.9. If it ever becomes legal, it's probably the nicest line at Alapocas.
There's another line that I don't see on the topo. To the right of route #5 ("Old School") is a roof with a hand crack. It protects well. I led this, onsight, in '90 or '91. Had a nice nut above the roof, but as I pulled through, the back-up on my tie in knot got stuck in the crack. I had to reverse the sequence, then do it again. It was pretty pumpy. I called it "Knot Roof" and figured it went at hard 5.9. There's an old pin off to the side, so I doubt mine was the first ascent.
Hope this helps.....
Sam
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