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mtnbkrxtrordnair
Sep 13, 2004, 2:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I saw a dude dyno like 20 ft. at the Gunks I dont think any of you have a concept of ft. especially him^ think of your house, assuming that its not a rancher, look at the tops of your second story windows...thats about 15-16 ft. from your foundation...add another small child height to that and VOILA!! A REALLY REALLY REALLY BIG spyderman dyno. Everyone else, I would say MOST of you should take a tape measure to the gym next time. What you think is "7 or 8" ft. is probably more like 4. Am I saying that its not possible? NO but 6,7,8 vertical ft. from your last hand hold is basically impossible for someone not of professional dyno-er stature. With that said, my biggest dyno at the gym was about 3.5 ft and fealt awesome
You have no concept because you did'nt see it. If someone told me I would not have believed it if I had'nt seen it myself. Maybe you missed the part about him slapping a hold in the middle of the dyno. And by the way the guy was word class. I'll take a tape measure up there and confirm distance. If you slap a couple of holds on the way up but your feet never touch the rock, that's still a dyno - right?
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brad_man
Sep 14, 2004, 12:41 AM
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In reply to: Maybe you missed the part about him slapping a hold in the middle of the dyno. And by the way the guy was word class. I'll take a tape measure up there and confirm distance. If you slap a couple of holds on the way up but your feet never touch the rock, that's still a dyno - right?
so first he slapped A hold...then he slapped a couple of holds...
so lets say he "slapped" two holds, half the way up at "10 ft", one for each hand
he either projected himself ANOTHER 10 ft. (OVER AN ENTIRE STORY) using only his ARMS in one big movement...or....
or.....
you have no concept of how much 20 ft is!
2 AND A HALF STORIES
sorry will never believe it until I see it
period
sorry if i'm totally gutting you like a cow but being in the construction business gets me frustrated when people start talking about distances...
by the way I can piss 30 yards!!!!
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euleto
Sep 14, 2004, 1:18 AM
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In reply to: and just for another comparison, if you think you can dyno "8.5" ft. like someone said, think of the room you are sitting in(assuming its standard height)... imagine your hands are at the level your feet are right now(floor level)... to dyno 8 ft. or more you would have to jump literally one story, grabbing the floor above you, including sub-floor... if you post a video of you doing this you will have my upmost respect, and heck even 20 bucks!
Well, I dont know how to post the vid here, but I do have one.
Give me your email, ill send it over (its in quicktime)
When you watch it, you will notice where I start, and when I finish, I am hanging, and the start hold is just below my feet. I am 6'2", plus the length of my arms, roughly 2 feet or so, and thats around 8.5 feet.
And, its not really jumping a story. Yes, your hands are 8.5 feet from the next hold, but stand up first, now you are 5 feet away, now lift your arms, 2 feet or so away, its just how it works. Perhaps people measure dynos differently, but I was referring to the amount of space between the two holds
And, I could really use the twenty bucks....
Connor
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perozee
Sep 14, 2004, 8:30 AM
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That would make it a 2 ft dyno.
Good job.
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temporary-wintertime
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Sep 14, 2004, 10:16 AM
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well how are you guys measuring dynos? i think thats where the ddiscrepancies are coming in.
i measure from handhold to handhols, but in order to dyno like that you have your feet not more than about 40cm below your hands- that way when you do the dyno your arms pull first so that you go from your toes sloping off the front of the footers to being positive, then when your body is above your feet you just jump. technically this means that in reality someone 6ft tall with convential dyno technique is only actually doing a coordinated jump of about 1 1/2 foot to get their '8ft' dyno because its really just standing with a bunny hop
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temporary-wintertime
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Sep 14, 2004, 10:24 AM
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sorry, just realised all ive done is repeat what euleto said.
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perozee
Sep 14, 2004, 12:50 PM
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To be fair when doing the comparison you have to remove the height of the climber from the equation...
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gneiss
Sep 14, 2004, 1:34 PM
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Okay, so what this argument has boiled down to is out definition of how to measure a dyno. I personally measure from the handholds that you start out on to the handholds that you end up on. I guess that just seems to make sense to me. So yeah, I guess my 8 ft dyno could be someone elses 2 ft dyno.
What about this situation. from the start holds you are dynoing past blankness, nothing, to a large ledge where the first thing you do is hike your feet up and toss a heel on the ledge. Would this dyno be longer than the distance between handholds since your feet start lower than your hands but end up on the same level?
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euleto
Sep 14, 2004, 2:23 PM
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Look, list your email or something or AIM, and I can send you pics and/or video of the 8+ footer.
The distance from the handhold, to the ending hold is ~8-8.5 feet.
Perhaps if you guys see the video or pics we can all get on the same page.
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perozee
Sep 14, 2004, 2:30 PM
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Gneiss
In reply to: What about this situation. from the start holds you are dynoing past blankness, nothing, to a large ledge where the first thing you do is hike your feet up and toss a heel on the ledge. Would this dyno be longer than the distance between handholds since your feet start lower than your hands but end up on the same level?
You are describing a sequence of two moves. A dyno and a heel hook.
:roll:
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perozee
Sep 14, 2004, 2:35 PM
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Euleto
In reply to: The distance from the handhold, to the ending hold is ~8-8.5 feet.
What do you not get about the fact that the distance from hand hold to hand hold means little to nothing when measuring the actual length of the dyno.
In your video we will simply see that about 6 feet of the 8.5 feet you speak of is accomplished in a static move that does not require letting go of the wall.
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gneiss
Sep 14, 2004, 2:36 PM
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yeah you're right I am. so we're back to disagreeing on how a dyno should be measured. agree to disagree I guess.
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climbinplaid
Sep 14, 2004, 3:25 PM
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its a whole lot easyer to measure form hand hold to hand hold...no math or arguing abuot your feet or your distance above, or below or whatever the hell is being talked about now. measure the distance from where you hands start to where your hands end....this is different than jumping from the ground...so dont measure it like it is jumping from the ground.
:shock: matt
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madmax
Sep 14, 2004, 3:58 PM
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Biggest dyno I've stuck is What's Left of Les in Hueco (who cares about some dyno in the gym?). From the undercling, with one arm stretched out, the lip is probably only about one foot away; but if you've ever done it, you'll know it sure feels bigger. And controlling the swing is the crux.
Edit: If we measure handhold to handhold, What's Left of Les is about four or five feet.
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euleto
Sep 14, 2004, 4:07 PM
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In reply to: its a whole lot easyer to measure form hand hold to hand hold...no math or arguing abuot your feet or your distance above, or below or whatever the hell is being talked about now. measure the distance from where you hands start to where your hands end....this is different than jumping from the ground...so dont measure it like it is jumping from the ground. :shock: matt
Right, handhold start to ending handhold is probably the only standard way to measure it. If you start factoring in height of climber and other varibles, the measuring system will be as fluctuating as when kingdoms used to use the length of the king's foot as the measuring standard...
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blind
Sep 14, 2004, 5:28 PM
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In reply to: Euleto In reply to: The distance from the handhold, to the ending hold is ~8-8.5 feet. What do you not get about the fact that the distance from hand hold to hand hold means little to nothing when measuring the actual length of the dyno. In your video we will simply see that about 6 feet of the 8.5 feet you speak of is accomplished in a static move that does not require letting go of the wall.
edit: changed my example for clarity.
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pcfcclmbr
Sep 14, 2004, 5:39 PM
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You ain't seen nuthin' yet :lol: :lol: :lol:http://www.petzl.com/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/fr_high/flyiron.htm
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euleto
Sep 14, 2004, 5:52 PM
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In reply to: Euleto In reply to: The distance from the handhold, to the ending hold is ~8-8.5 feet. In your video we will simply see that about 6 feet of the 8.5 feet you speak of is accomplished in a static move that does not require letting go of the wall.
O will we?
Seriously, i will send the vid if you post your email.
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hemp22
Sep 14, 2004, 6:00 PM
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I was just about to post the link to that video too.
pretty crazy stuff
and I think it illustrates that just because the distance between the 2 holds are less than the climber's height, it's not a static move.
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brad_man
Sep 14, 2004, 8:12 PM
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Alright I think I've figured it out!
The ONLY TRUE WAY TO MEASURE ACTUAL DYNOED DISTANCE IS TO MEASURE FROM THE FIRST FOOTHOLD, TO WHERE YOUR FEET END UP DANGLING!!!
think about it...its true
because if you dyno from a hand/foot match (even though that would be hard as crap) up to another handhold about 6 ft. up the wall, your body left the wall for about 6 inches if you're 5'6". A dyno of 6 INCHES not 6 FEET
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blind
Sep 14, 2004, 9:04 PM
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In reply to: Alright I think I've figured it out! The ONLY TRUE WAY TO MEASURE ACTUAL DYNOED DISTANCE IS TO MEASURE FROM THE FIRST FOOTHOLD, TO WHERE YOUR FEET END UP DANGLING!!! think about it...its true because if you dyno from a hand/foot match (even though that would be hard as crap) up to another handhold about 6 ft. up the wall, your body left the wall for about 6 inches if you're 5'6". A dyno of 6 INCHES not 6 FEET |
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pcfcclmbr
Sep 14, 2004, 9:10 PM
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Enough already! Lets talk about the Petzl video. Has anyone figured it out yet?
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brad_man
Sep 14, 2004, 9:13 PM
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jesus christ man
you cant measure handhold to handhold, unless you want to measure the distance your feet are from your hands and subtract that to find actual distance
In reply to: I doubt they judge a dyno contest by who's feet dangle the highest above the starting hold.
you're right i doubt they would either! but i doubt they would even MEASURE anything. they would probably just judge who can DO IT given the starting position/holds and the end holds!
you people dont get it
i'm done
the only other person who seems to get it is the guy with the skull signature thing whatever his name is...
i love you skull guy (in a christian brotherly type way)
I can piss 50 yards if i first piss into a super soaker and stand on a 20ft. tower and shoot it with a 30 mph tailwind, and of course that 50 yards includes the length of the super-soaker
holy beaver dam batman, we've created a monster
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tradnomad
Sep 14, 2004, 9:54 PM
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Bradman, the whole problem with your logic is that you are trying to compare dynoing to how high you can jump...
If you were measuring how high someone can jump it would make sense to measure from how high their hand reaches up a wall when standing on the ground and then to measure how high they can touch up the wall when they jump. The height of the jump is the distance between these two.
It would not make sense to measure from the height of their hands when they are crouched down preparing to jump.
However dynoing is not jumping, and the generally accepted way of measuring a dyno is from starting handhold to ending handhold, at least in every dyno competition I've ever seen or heard of and in every conversation between climbers about dynos that I've heard (except this one!).
Part of the difficulty of dynoing is to get your feet as high as possible and still be able to "jump". The longest dynos I've witnessed involved getting your foot on the starting handhold.
As for the Petzl video... I have one of me doing a dyno like that, only I'm dynoing 30ft out of a lake to the top of a cliff... :wink:
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