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master_storm
May 21, 2002, 4:18 PM
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I've been climbing hardcore (about 3-4 times a week) for about 6 months at an indoor climbing gym. I think I've reach a plateau in terms of strength. I was wondering if anyone had any tips in increasing strength other than climbing a lot.
The biggest problem I have is with slopers and grabbing onto edges without crimping. Are there any specific excerises that I can do to help in this respect.
Thanks
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duskerhu
May 21, 2002, 4:43 PM
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Hey Norman,
My first suggestion is instead of training strength, train TECHNIQUE! I can almost guarantee that you'll make twice the progress climbing with great technique as you would being super strong and powering your way through a route.
My 2nd suggestion is to get at least one of two great books (or get both of them ).
1- "Flash Training" by Eric Horst (from the Falcon "How To Rock Climb Series") ??$16.95??
2- "Performance Rock Climbing" by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann $14.95
Both of these books are great for climbers -experts to novices. They have great technique tips and advice and exercises for all levels of climbing.
Get them at REI or Borders, ect...
Good luck
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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stevematthys
May 22, 2002, 2:36 AM
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practice more on technique now, not how strong you can get
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miagi
May 22, 2002, 2:58 AM
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Well, slopers are easier to master if you get all of your hand on them (if you can). This creates more friction and can help you to not fall off. Another important point on slopers is body position. If your center of gravity is off, your slip right off. Go to your gym, find a nice sloper and move around on it at different angles.
As for crimpers, I sort of don't understand the question: just grabbing them without crimping? Im guessing just use the foremost digit on your fingers to grab the crimper and then pull yourself and close the crimp off. Sometimes you will have to use less fingers if the crimp is small. If you want to learn different techniques, the best site to go to is http://www.climbingmotion.com. It contains some 50 small videos on different climbing techniques and moves.
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phil_nev
May 22, 2002, 3:10 AM
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I am the same as you bud, i have only been climbing for 6 months or so, but hardcore 3-4 times a week. I have accelerated through the grades very quickly, but as i nerw i would, i reached a plateu (spelling???). It was that 5.11 barrier. So i started bouldering, bouldeing and nothing else. After 2 months of not tying into the rope i almost cracked the 5.12 barrier on my first shot. As well as i have become much more consistent at the 5.11 barier. My point is bouldering is deffinitly the best wasy to work on technique strengthy and stamina.
Strength: Just do hanusly hard problems on a 45 degree wall. Then do laps....
Endurance. Find an easy-moderate travesre/roof, do laps of that.
Technique: watch other boulderers. Even take a video camera and get someone to tape you, this is an excelent way to pick up on your weaknesses.
Beway, i hope that was some help.
later...
phil
[ This Message was edited by: phil_nev on 2002-05-23 21:19 ]
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frawg
May 22, 2002, 3:31 AM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
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http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
This is The horst guy who flash training is written by.
His web page. Good info. Not $16.00
:D:D:D
peaze
frawg
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spectral
May 22, 2002, 9:07 PM
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phil:
I agree that watching other boulderers is a good way to pick up technique. I haven't tried getting someone to take a video of me being raped, and to be honest, I don't see what it has to do with my climbing weaknesses . However, it does sound original!
On training for slopers:
miagi is right on. My gym has these two nasty slopers side by side, the bigger one about a foot above the small one. I just try campusing between them, and it helps a great deal. Your leg and torso position has everything to do with sticking a sloper, so be mindful.
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phil_nev
May 22, 2002, 11:44 PM
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to quote spectral....
"I haven't tried getting someone to take a video of me being raped"
I can understand why......... hehehehe
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tanderson
May 23, 2002, 3:23 AM
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I agree with the technique replies. Thats the way to get better when at a plateau. Everytime I get stumped, its usually a technique issue.
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kunzie
Jun 16, 2002, 4:50 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2001
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If you've improved your technique and practised lots, and still on your plateau, try and put problems into the routes you can do, like not using you index and middle fingers, putting some weights on your legs or just using the edges of your toes instead of you whole foot. A bit unorthodox and it can be dangerous if leading, but it got me off my plateau.
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