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reno
Oct 4, 2004, 5:49 PM
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Mandy, my roommate, and I went to Jack's Canyon this Saturday. No big special event, just an urge to get on some rock. While I normally prefer trad lines, she's not experienced in gear placements, and wanted to go sport climbing. I don't mind bolts, so I agreed.
Friday night, we walked over to Tempe's "Way out West October Fest" and walked around a bit. She was checking out the "cute college boys" and I was enjoying the eye candy of the "hot college chicks." Despite our best efforts, we both struck out. Oh, well... good beer, grilled bratwurst mit kraut and ColdStone Creamery ice cream for dessert.
I roused her with a discreet knock on the door at 0500. My knock was answered with a grumpy (and somewhat sleepy) "Go away and leave me alone!"
"Nope... get up, we're going climbing."
Coffee, scones, and a cigarette later, we're on the road. Ronin, the German Shepard/Akita is in the truck, and Mandy tosses me the keys: "You're driving, I'm sleeping." She curls up in the fetal position in the passenger seat, and is asleep before I make it to the 202 highway.
Payson, Strawberry, and Pine all pass without event. I rouse her from her slumber at the gate to Jack's, and we park the truck. Grab the gear, hike down the trail, and start off on a couple 5.8 lines. Nothing special, but fun enough. She forgot her water in the truck, so she runs back to get it (literally... trail running is her hobby.) The dog goes with her, and I curl up on a slab, using the rope and my pack for cushion, and take a nap.
Just down the wall from our warm-up climbs, we jump on a series of .10 routes. The farthest left climb is .10b, and I start up. Get jammed up in an akward stance, lose my feet, and peel... I fall about 10 feet, and despite our weight difference, Mandy catches me softly. (Whew... Makes me glad to have a good roommate.) I lower off, she sends it with better style (the route is, as she puts it, "a short person's climb." I'm 6'5" or so... she's 5'2" or so.) I clean it on a top-rope, and we move on. A quick bite to eat, then on to the rightmost climb, a 5.10a. Easy and smooth sailing. Between the .10b and .10a is a .10c line that looks beautiful. I float this with ease (why is it that I fall on a .10b and float a .10c??)
Pack up, move to a different part of the wall, and get to her "project climb," an .11d line that has a funky start. With the kindness of a fellow climber, we stick-clip the second bolt (I can reach the first one from the ground.) A few flailing attempts at the under-roof start, and we "de-proach." ("Bail" sounds like you're a total lame-o wuss, while "de-proach" sounds more like a reasoned and educated decision. Sure, it's all academic discussion, but rationalization is my strong suit.)
By now, it's near 4:30pm, and we're beat. I tag one last line, a .10b in a corner, and we call it a day.
I pull the rope, and my day ends perfectly:
.
.
.
.
.
I caught the rope end in my hand, about 2 inches from the very end.
She bought all the beer at Four Peaks Brewery that night. :)
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kimmyt
Oct 4, 2004, 6:59 PM
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1. Cold Stone Creamery is the bestest. Have you had their pumpkin pie dealio? I hear it's to-die-for.
2. Your roommate is so much cooler than mine. I'm jealous.
3. Sounds like a great day, thanks for the TR!
K.
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timstich
Oct 4, 2004, 7:16 PM
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A good day always ends with free beer.
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artm
Oct 4, 2004, 7:32 PM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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I had a cool day like that on Saturday.
Well.........except my partner got peed on by the party ahead of us.
And we were climbing trad.
But we bootied a nut from the pee party.
Nice TR Jeff......wish I could write all good and stuff like you but I caint.
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feanor007
Oct 4, 2004, 7:38 PM
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a perfect ending requires little. miguels. piazza. ale8. perfect
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troutboy
Oct 4, 2004, 8:04 PM
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In reply to: a perfect ending requires little. miguels. piazza. ale8. perfect
Or soaking in the Hot Springs outside Bishop with a Moose Drool after a long day in the mountains.
T
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 4, 2004, 8:11 PM
Post #7 of 27
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I wrote a story about the perfect climbing day...can't publish it here :)
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reno
Oct 4, 2004, 8:27 PM
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In reply to: I wrote a story about the perfect climbing day...can't publish it here :)
Ain't the TOS a pain sometimes? ;) ;) ;)
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cin
Oct 4, 2004, 8:48 PM
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Registered: Jan 26, 2004
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Sure that's the perfect ending to a day. . .
On The Disney Channel!
I watch Cinemax.
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maculated
Oct 4, 2004, 8:55 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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Love it. Great little read, Reno.
FWIW, Coldstone and Jamba Juice originated in San Luis Obispo. I've been sucking on both of them forever. HA HA!
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crimpandgo
Oct 4, 2004, 8:56 PM
Post #11 of 27
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Registered: Apr 15, 2004
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Any day you get to climb will have a perfect ending :)
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kimmyt
Oct 4, 2004, 8:58 PM
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Dude. Read some of the threads in Injuries and Accidents.
Then rethink that statement.
K.
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slablizard
Oct 4, 2004, 9:20 PM
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Perfect ending ? A little green one , alone, looking at the sunset, on topo of the route. Walking back in silence spotting coyotes..reentering slowly into civilization.
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crimpandgo
Oct 4, 2004, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: Dude. Read some of the threads in Injuries and Accidents. Then rethink that statement. K.
You grumpy today? of course accidents happen. THis seemed like a "Happy" thread, so I chose to think happy thoughts. And those happy thoughts do not include a day that ends with an accident. It ends with a day full of great climbs :lol:
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tuelly
Oct 5, 2004, 6:20 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2004
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One of my favorite ways to end the day is by throwing my pad and bag on the ground, crawling in, staring up at the stars and listening to someone play some mellow, acoustic guitar while I fight like a child to keep my eyes open so I can see more shooting stars and hear more beautiful music and then, before I know it, waking up to sunshine and another great day of climbing.
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uzziah
Oct 5, 2004, 8:55 AM
Post #16 of 27
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mineral hot springs outside j tree. just go. no, stop asking questions, just go.
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wanderinfree
Oct 5, 2004, 12:38 PM
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Perfect ending to a great day climbing? Easy. Blue cheese burgers and a Colorado Kind at the Sounthern Sun after climbing at Eldo. Even you have to admit the envy there, Reno. :D
Great read on your weekend. Nice run up the 10c's.
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calamity_chk
Oct 5, 2004, 6:37 PM
Post #18 of 27
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In reply to: Perfect ending to a great day climbing? Easy. Blue cheese burgers and a Colorado Kind at the Sounthern Sun after climbing at Eldo. Even you have to admit the envy there, Reno. :D Great read on your weekend. Nice run up the 10c's.
change my vote to burgers or cheese fries and a swan song. otherwise, i'm onboard with the southern sun and eldo gig.
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olejeff
Oct 6, 2004, 1:10 AM
Post #19 of 27
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Registered: Oct 1, 2004
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Man, work sucks! Excellet TR Reno. I definitely missed out. Glad you had a great trip.
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thewyseclimber
Oct 6, 2004, 1:54 AM
Post #20 of 27
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In reply to: One of my favorite ways to end the day is by throwing my pad and bag on the ground, crawling in, staring up at the stars and listening to someone play some mellow, acoustic guitar while I fight like a child to keep my eyes open so I can see more shooting stars and hear more beautiful music and then, before I know it, waking up to sunshine and another great day of climbing.
Ahh, man. Now THAT'S hard to beat. Combine that with maybe a little campfire to stare into and zone out for a while, some good conversation...man, you're gold.
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tuelly
Oct 6, 2004, 5:36 AM
Post #21 of 27
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In reply to: In reply to: One of my favorite ways to end the day is by throwing my pad and bag on the ground, crawling in, staring up at the stars and listening to someone play some mellow, acoustic guitar while I fight like a child to keep my eyes open so I can see more shooting stars and hear more beautiful music and then, before I know it, waking up to sunshine and another great day of climbing. Ahh, man. Now THAT'S hard to beat. Combine that with maybe a little campfire to stare into and zone out for a while, some good conversation...man, you're gold. |
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thewyseclimber
Oct 6, 2004, 6:09 AM
Post #22 of 27
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Please accept my apology for using the generally accepted and oft-used gender-exclusive vernacular. But yes. I could deal with a day of climbing that ends like this. Maybe we should team up.
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reno
Oct 6, 2004, 6:36 AM
Post #23 of 27
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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In reply to: Man, work sucks! Excellet TR Reno. I definitely missed out. Glad you had a great trip.
No worries, my friend. The rock will be there for a while.
Speaking of... you busy on Sunday? :)
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anykineclimb
Oct 6, 2004, 6:54 AM
Post #24 of 27
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Hiking down in the dark because you've been climbing since dawn.
Meeting up with some friends for some cold Dos Equis Amber and good Mexican food.(Cholo's in Haleiwa, Oahu, Hawaii)
Then go out later that night to see your friends band play and end up meeting the girl of your dreams...
True story :D
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doublehelix
Oct 7, 2004, 12:21 AM
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A day spent climbing and diving in a perfectly isolated grotto, hiking around sunset and cook food over a fire at night. Spending hours with a few cold beers and a few of your closest friends talking until you all fall asleep, each of you with the person of your dreams in your arms. Can't get any better.
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