|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Sep 24, 2004, 3:35 PM
Post #1 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
The Naked Edge was one of my dream routes. I wanted to climb it someday, but thought it would be a year or so before I got the chance. The line is daunting, but directly up the south face of the Redgarden Wall. It may be THE Eldo classic. Erik mentioned wanting to climb it and I jumped at the chance. Almost immidiately after I started wondering what I had gotten myself into. My thought progression went from sending it clean, to finishing the route without pulling on gear. It actually turned out harder but better than I had imagined.
You actally start on a different route to get to the bottom of The Edge. I believe that we started on Anthill Direct. Tim Stitch and some other dude were on it when we got there. Anyway, both of us were a bit anxiety ridden. It was a lot of "so, were actually doing this?" going back and forth. It was hot, there was still a little smoke from the Eldo fire, and this route was going to be tough.
We did the 5.8 to 10a bolted variation for the first pitch. Both of us said "Hmm, that was 10a and we're going to do 11b huh?". We scrambled up an exposed grassy ledge to get to the cave pitch at the bottom of our route. We pulled the fun but awkward 5.8 cave, and hit the bolt anchor for the first 11a pitch.
This goes up a shallow groove with some arete within reach. Erik pulled through pretty easily, but slowed down alot and called "watch me" on the crux move. This made me feel real confident that I could cruise it (right). The bottom was pretty tentative with small smears and thin fingers to a "rest" move. Rest meant that you could shake out for a second. The crux was right off the rest. Basically, it was no footholds (smears) with both hands in painful tip jams. This if where the falls began. I cried, fell, rested and pulled it.
The next pitch was 10+ with slopers and smears up a ramp. Off the ramp you turn a left corner and into wild exposure with tricky placements. The wind was really kicking up now. There was also much more confidence inspiring slowing down by Erik. But he pulled up to the belay (another hanging one) pretty smoothly. I once again got up to the crux pretty easily and just had a foot sketch off. That fall really annoyed me. I now see where better footwork is next on my training list.
A chill, but kind of weird and loose, 8 pitch put us at the meat pitches. Since we only had one rope, this was the committing point of no return. The last 2 pitches are 11a R or S and 11a/b.
The belay was the best one yet on a decent ledge. we drank most of the hot water and ate a clif bar while watching the helicopters ferry in buckets of water for the fire. We both thought it was a little strange how empty the park was. Of course the fire was to blame.
Erik surveyed the runout and rested a bit. A fall on the runout would put you onto some nice sharp rocks. MMM fun. Anyway, Erik clipped a pin, placed a green alien, and spouted "watch me" as he ran it out about 15 feet with bad deck potential. He seemed to crank through pretty easily and clipped another pin. Cheers went all around. The runout was done, but a weird flaring chimney was up. He pulled up a little further and started shaking. He had one tip jam, a crimp, and both feet smeared right next to each other. He looked like he was about to lose it. The fall wouldn't be bad, but the pitch onsight would be lost. I yelled for him check the chimney behind him and see if he could stem. He slapped a high backstep into a small corner and let out a long sigh. He later told me he would have come off if I hadn't said anything. I'm such a supportive partner :D. He reached a REALLY crappy hanging belay and I started up. This pitch did me in. I pulled up grunting the whole way to have a foot smear sketch, swinging me off route onto a blank face. I had to jug up a few feet to get back on. I missed the whole chimney stem in the process. I grunted my way to the belay and we chilled for a little while again.
Here we go! last pitch. Both of us are visibly tired and about an inch from heat stroke. Erik sips the last of the water and starts up. He pulled up the 11a/b ramp shakily to turn another wickedly exposed corner. You undercling and duck under a flake at the corner to have 300+ feet of air below you. Then you crank an overhanging hand/fist crack to the top. This was the bitch pitch, because after the hard ramp, you pull the corner already pumped. It alo puts you out of vocal range, especially with the wind. A fall by the leader in the crack would put him about 10 feet below the crack again, and 10 feet from the wall. Luckily he cranked slowly but solid. He poked his head over the top and let out a nice victory/relief yell. The rest was 5.5 to the top. We had trouble communicating the changeover, but I was confident that I was on belay. I headed up the ramp and just pumped out. Erik couldn't hear me so I had to pendulum back on. I wasted a ton of energy getting back on route. I pulled around the corner and got blasted by wind. The daunting hand crack lay ahead. I cranked about half of it and had a loop of rope hanging about 6 feet below me. I was pumped and threw an arm up to my elbow just to give my hads a rest. I shook all over, tried to yell take, and only dust came out of my throat. We really needed water! I quickly clipped into a #3 camalot and rested. Falling was bad, but this was the big puss out! I had no intention of swinging away from the wall with no communication. Erik finally took up the rope and I cranked (read cried) on through. Even the 5.5 finish hurt at this point. But we had done it!
I think that we were both on the brink of heat exhaustion. Neither had enough saliva to spit. We stumbled down the east slabs, shared congratulations on the bridge, and surveyed the mildly conqured wall.
It was a fun, serious, scary, stomach churning day.
We dipped into the cool creek to cap it off. Freezing water never felt so good!
|
|
|
|
|
wanderinfree
Sep 24, 2004, 3:45 PM
Post #2 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 476
|
Damn, Jer. You are the man. Well....after Erik. Great trip report. I laughed, I cried,.... I don't know how you aren't suffering from nightmares still. Congrats to you both on pulling the Edge.
--kim
|
|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Sep 24, 2004, 5:13 PM
Post #3 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
Thanks, I think I'll wait a couple of years to do that again.
|
|
|
|
|
jsj42
Sep 24, 2004, 5:34 PM
Post #4 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 24, 2002
Posts: 374
|
In reply to: The Naked Edge was one of my dream routes.
Congrats and thanks for the TR!
In reply to: You actally start on a different route to get to the bottom of The Edge. I believe that we started on Anthill Direct... We did the 5.8 to 10a bolted variation for the first pitch.
Touch & Go and Bolting for Glory?
In reply to: Since we only had one rope, this was the committing point of no return.
Conveniently, with a 70m rope, one easily rap from any point on the climb with the sole exception of the top of the final pitch.
In reply to: The last 2 pitches are 11a R or S and 11a/b... Erik surveyed the runout and rested a bit. A fall on the runout would put you onto some nice sharp rocks... he ran it out about 15 feet with bad deck potential.
Erik might have been missing something here. It should be noted that the Edge is arguably not even S, and definately not R. I'm guessing that the section in particular that you're talking about here is right off the ramp on p4, getting up to the pin in the flake prior to the chimney. I know for a fact I place a bomber #2 Camalot above the busted bong, and then it's really only a two or three moves to the pin. Completely safe fall here as such.
In reply to: He reached a REALLY crappy hanging belay
...that is, the stance is crappy - the anchor is bomber: three bolts and a pin.
In reply to: You undercling and duck under a flake at the corner to have 300+ feet of air below you.
Truly awesome, huh? The belayer can let the whole rope drop and it just hangs there in free space...
In reply to: We dipped into the cool creek to cap it off. Freezing water never felt so good!
Heck yeah! The only thing better than eldo climbing in late summer is the creek afterwards!!!
Thanks again for the TR
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Sep 24, 2004, 5:46 PM
Post #5 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
Thanks Josh! All valid and true points. Especially the creek.
In hindsight I think he might have placed a piece above that bong. Funny how things get lost memory at sketchy moments.
|
|
|
|
|
ropeburn
Sep 24, 2004, 6:07 PM
Post #6 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 594
|
Nice TR J, and congrats to both of you on the line.
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Sep 24, 2004, 8:09 PM
Post #7 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
Nice TR, Jeremy. You guys looked solid the whole time. On the walk down, you were lagging, though. And we had no idea you two were anxious. We just figured we needed to finish "Touch and Go" to get out of your way. Heh.
|
|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Sep 24, 2004, 9:02 PM
Post #8 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
I, for one, tried to feign confidence. I'm kinda gald no one was in the canyon to see me flail on the last pitch.
By the time we got to the car neither of us could think straight. We had water on the brain.
|
|
|
|
|
mother_sheep
Sep 24, 2004, 9:07 PM
Post #9 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 3984
|
Makes you appreciate Derek Hershey even more I bet. Nice work. It will be years before my fingers even get to touch that beautiful climb.
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Sep 24, 2004, 9:15 PM
Post #10 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
That was some quality writing man! I gotta bump up my level this winter and get on the Vampire. Thanks for the TR!
|
|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Sep 24, 2004, 9:54 PM
Post #11 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
Yeah, to think Hersey free soloed this route! How can one climb with balls that large?
|
|
|
|
|
nistrong
Sep 24, 2004, 10:09 PM
Post #12 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2002
Posts: 34
|
In reply to: It should be noted that the Edge is arguably not even S, and definately not R.
:!:
I think you are getting your S and R transposed, if you know what I mean.
Nice climb dude.
|
|
|
|
|
bobd1953
Sep 24, 2004, 10:58 PM
Post #13 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 3941
|
Good trip report and good job on the route. I don't remember any dangerous sections. The route on the whole is pretty well protected with modern gear. When I first free climbed the 'Edge" in 1979 there was a number of fixed pieces on it.
On another note: Jim Collins was the first person to solo the Naked Edge and I think it was in 1979 also.
|
|
|
|
|
dpurf
Sep 24, 2004, 11:12 PM
Post #14 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2003
Posts: 160
|
Yo, I was the dude with Tim. Tim and I did touch and go then off to Anthill Direct. Sorry if I took too long on Touch and Go. I hear you about needing water. I guess it was the weather; I was absolutely parched after anthill. Great trip report and congrats on the climb.
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
coclimber26
Sep 25, 2004, 2:57 AM
Post #15 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
|
Awsome report...The Naked Edge...Someday
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Sep 25, 2004, 5:29 PM
Post #16 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
The Edge... Strong work, Jer.
The only way I'll ever make it up that line is if I retro-aid the thing. And somehow I don't think such activity would endear me to the locals.
Good TR, bro... thanks for sharing!
|
|
|
|
|
cologman
Sep 27, 2004, 3:20 AM
Post #17 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 581
|
Nice job J. That is a climb I've wanted to do for a very long time. Hopefully one of these days. Nice motivation!
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Sep 27, 2004, 9:55 AM
Post #18 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
In reply to: Sorry if I took too long on Touch and Go.
Hardly. You must have missed the part where Jeremy and Erik were anxiously staring up at their line.
|
|
|
|
|
nthusiastj
Sep 27, 2004, 9:55 PM
Post #19 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
|
Thanks to all who read and replied. Erik and I did Rosy Crucifixion yesterday. I am quickly realizing the difference between being able to lead 11a sport and following Eldo 10's.
*must ... get .... stronger!*
|
|
|
|
|
crazyfingers
Sep 28, 2004, 7:25 PM
Post #20 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 512
|
Nice tr, bitchin climb... need to place more gear... need to get a s-ton stronger to keep up with yo' arshe. Someday dude, you're gonna have to drag me up there. 8^)
KT
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Sep 29, 2004, 4:30 AM
Post #21 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
In reply to: Erik and I did Rosy Crucifixion yesterday.
Cool! I was just reading about that route in "High Over Boulder." FA 1962 by Layton Kor and Jack Turner.
|
|
|
|
|
dynoguy
Oct 8, 2004, 5:17 AM
Post #22 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730
|
Derek Hersey soloed that. SICK
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Oct 8, 2004, 1:51 PM
Post #23 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
In reply to: Derek Hersey soloed that. SICK
Agreed. And he soloed harder lines than that as well. Of course, he was committed to the life. In the same book I mentioned, there is a photo of Derek with his jumbo King Sooper mug. No doubt this was a good deal for refills, perhaps even his secret weapon: fizzy drinks.
|
|
|
|
|
zozo
Oct 8, 2004, 1:57 PM
Post #24 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2004
Posts: 3431
|
In reply to: Derek Hersey soloed that. SICK
How did he die?
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Oct 8, 2004, 2:11 PM
Post #25 of 39
(8228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
In reply to: In reply to: Derek Hersey soloed that. SICK How did he die?
As I understand it, he was free soloing a route in Yosemite when a storm came in. I'm not sure anyone knows why he fell, but one could assume it was because of wet holds or perhaps wind.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
