|
slavetogravity
Oct 18, 2004, 1:10 AM
Post #1 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
|
A route called Zebra- in Quebec Canada- was just pink pointed and is considered to be 514b. It's probably the hardest crack in Canada and in the top 5 in North America. Here is an old film from drtopo made last year when this route was still a project. http://www.drtopo.com/quebec/zebree.html
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Oct 18, 2004, 1:24 AM
Post #2 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Looks hard. Really hard. So when will somebody climb it without preplaced gear? As far as I'm concerned, if its only been pink pointed, somebody may as well bolt it.
|
|
|
|
|
yeti
Oct 18, 2004, 1:31 AM
Post #3 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 57
|
The route is called "La Zébrée", which means stiped like a zebra. People have been aiding the route for years. The protection is bomber all the way. Placing the gear on lead makes it harder, obviously. The perfect project for someone who likes hard routes, but the bolt-clipping kind.
|
|
|
|
|
rispo
Oct 18, 2004, 1:45 AM
Post #5 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 15, 2004
Posts: 124
|
Definatly dont bolt it but its sick......cant wait till someone can lead it trad.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Oct 18, 2004, 1:46 AM
Post #6 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
That is an absolutely amazing looking climb. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Oct 18, 2004, 1:52 AM
Post #7 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
I suppose I should clarify: preplaced gear, to me is the same be it a cam, a pin, or a bolt. So (with that in mind) why is something that has been unsurprising since Just Do It went up that big of news? Why the preplaced gear, if its a crack? A perfectly protectable crack at that?
|
|
|
|
|
yay_chris
Oct 18, 2004, 1:52 AM
Post #8 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2004
Posts: 141
|
Really like that video. That route is insane. Did you see those foot jams? Brilliant.
|
|
|
|
|
chouca
Oct 18, 2004, 2:05 AM
Post #9 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2003
Posts: 149
|
This type of climb advances the sport. It looks like it took plenty of effort as well. Kudos for not editing out the dogging and yo-yoing. The videography and style of climb really gave me the feel of being there and experiencing the pump and frustration. If Sonny Trotter makes it to Quebec, this could be on his short list for a ground up ascent. Congrats, Marc B.
|
|
|
|
|
slavetogravity
Oct 18, 2004, 2:29 AM
Post #10 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
|
In reply to: Why that big of news? You're right it aint' that big of new. That's why you're reading about on RC.com and not RockandIce, or Climbing magazine. I suppose the only thing that makes this news worthy is that 5.14 cracks climbs are rare, and the people able to climb them by any means are even rarer. In a world where 5.14 face climbs, and the people who climb them have become a dime a dozen. This is simply something different and therefore something news worthy.
|
|
|
|
|
fecalquisinart
Oct 18, 2004, 2:38 AM
Post #11 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 188
|
That does look like a rad climb. However, considering the inflationary exchange rate...in the U.S. that would only be about 11c.
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Oct 18, 2004, 2:55 AM
Post #12 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
I know it's hard to underestimate how difficult it is to climb 5.14, but compared to sport, it is pretty rare. For an example take Grand Illusion, a 5.13c (and probably the world's first 5.13) at Sugarloaf, near South Lake Tahoe. This was first pink pointed in '79 and has been led placing your own gear just once, in '88 by Hidetaka Suzuki. I'm sure you've seen the photo.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Oct 18, 2004, 3:02 AM
Post #13 of 36
(7322 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
You can have my part of that. :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
skecthballer
Oct 18, 2004, 3:06 AM
Post #14 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2003
Posts: 123
|
true dat
|
|
|
|
|
dkennedy
Oct 18, 2004, 3:13 AM
Post #15 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2003
Posts: 27
|
In reply to: For an example take Grand Illusion, a 5.13c (and probably the world's first 5.13) at Sugarloaf, near South Lake Tahoe. This was first pink pointed in '79 and has been led placing your own gear just once, in '88 by Hidetaka Suzuki. I'm sure you've seen the photo. Grand illusion has been redpointed by others. Just becuase you don't see it in the magazines doesn't mean it hasn't happened.
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Oct 18, 2004, 3:23 AM
Post #16 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
hey, sorry if i am mistaken, i was just pointing out what's in the new SuperTopo guide
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Oct 18, 2004, 3:32 AM
Post #17 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
Kudos to that guy for sending his proj, although I'm trying to think of other 5.14 crack climbs that have sinker hand jams on them and I'm coming up blank... but I wouldn't call that trad climbing, more like sport crack climbing, or just sport climbing, really. And why the helmet? Extra style points for those Boreal Fire Classics, haven't seen those in a while...
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Oct 18, 2004, 3:33 AM
Post #18 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
That video is rad.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Oct 18, 2004, 3:39 AM
Post #19 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: Kudos to that guy for sending his proj, although I'm trying to think of other 5.14 crack climbs that have sinker hand jams on them and I'm coming up blank... but I wouldn't call that trad climbing, more like sport crack climbing, or just sport climbing, really. And why the helmet? Extra style points for those Boreal Fire Classics, haven't seen those in a while... Hey Joe, They don't all look "sinker" to me. A lot of those jams jook off-hand like Super Crack (Gunks version) or Sphinx Crack. Also, it looks Really steep. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Oct 18, 2004, 3:40 AM
Post #20 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: In reply to: Kudos to that guy for sending his proj, although I'm trying to think of other 5.14 crack climbs that have sinker hand jams on them and I'm coming up blank... but I wouldn't call that trad climbing, more like sport crack climbing, or just sport climbing, really. And why the helmet? Extra style points for those Boreal Fire Classics, haven't seen those in a while... Hey Joe, They don't all look "sinker" to me. A lot of those jams jook off-hand like Super Crack (Gunks version) or Sphinx Crack. Also, it looks really steep. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
marcallain
Oct 18, 2004, 11:41 AM
Post #21 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2003
Posts: 319
|
Where in Quebec is the climb located??
|
|
|
|
|
sir_chalkalot
Oct 18, 2004, 11:45 AM
Post #22 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2003
Posts: 153
|
In reply to: Where in Quebec is the climb located?? Mt. King in Val David. George.
|
|
|
|
|
forkliftdaddy
Oct 18, 2004, 1:20 PM
Post #23 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
|
Seems that all of the 5.14 trad lines go only on pink point. Ron Kauk's 14a, that other, severely overhangin crack, 14a, and this. Must be a little hard to stand around and place that gear, eh? Oddly enough, pink pointing is pretty old school. It predates red-pointing. In the R&I ethics issue Henry Barber talks about yo-yo-ing hard routes at the Gunks. This was the common way many aid lines were freed. But then folks started topull the rope. You'd go up as high as you could, fall, then pull the rope and go again until you pushed it through to the top. Very respectable.
|
|
|
|
|
grayhghost
Oct 18, 2004, 2:33 PM
Post #24 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 444
|
Props to the climber. Pinkpointing is just a stage in the route's progression towards perfect style, and it is fine if someone wants to show us mortals what it looks like to be part of that progression. 1.) aiding the route 2.) freeing the route with pre-placed gear 3.) freeing the route without p.p. gear 4.) flashing the route 5.) onsighting the route 6.) onsighting the route free-solo 7.) onsighting the route free-solo, blindfolded with one arm behind your back. Kauk's route is called "Magic Line" 5.14b, done with pre-placed gear. There is a route Potter did outside of Moab, which should check in around 14- which he did redpoint-style.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Oct 18, 2004, 2:41 PM
Post #25 of 36
(7326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
now wonder it was "only" pinkpointed. whoever can climb this AND place gear is really good. i cant even imagine doing it. i hate cracks :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
|