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slavetogravity
Oct 18, 2004, 1:10 AM
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A route called Zebra- in Quebec Canada- was just pink pointed and is considered to be 514b. It's probably the hardest crack in Canada and in the top 5 in North America.
Here is an old film from drtopo made last year when this route was still a project.
http://www.drtopo.com/quebec/zebree.html
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petsfed
Oct 18, 2004, 1:24 AM
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Looks hard. Really hard. So when will somebody climb it without preplaced gear? As far as I'm concerned, if its only been pink pointed, somebody may as well bolt it.
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yeti
Oct 18, 2004, 1:31 AM
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The route is called "La Zébrée", which means stiped like a zebra. People have been aiding the route for years. The protection is bomber all the way. Placing the gear on lead makes it harder, obviously. The perfect project for someone who likes hard routes, but the bolt-clipping kind.
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rispo
Oct 18, 2004, 1:45 AM
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Definatly dont bolt it but its sick......cant wait till someone can lead it trad.
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curt
Oct 18, 2004, 1:46 AM
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That is an absolutely amazing looking climb.
Curt
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petsfed
Oct 18, 2004, 1:52 AM
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I suppose I should clarify: preplaced gear, to me is the same be it a cam, a pin, or a bolt. So (with that in mind) why is something that has been unsurprising since Just Do It went up that big of news? Why the preplaced gear, if its a crack? A perfectly protectable crack at that?
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yay_chris
Oct 18, 2004, 1:52 AM
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Really like that video.
That route is insane. Did you see those foot jams? Brilliant.
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chouca
Oct 18, 2004, 2:05 AM
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This type of climb advances the sport. It looks like it took plenty of effort as well. Kudos for not editing out the dogging and yo-yoing. The videography and style of climb really gave me the feel of being there and experiencing the pump and frustration. If Sonny Trotter makes it to Quebec, this could be on his short list for a ground up ascent.
Congrats,
Marc B.
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slavetogravity
Oct 18, 2004, 2:29 AM
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In reply to: Why that big of news? |
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fecalquisinart
Oct 18, 2004, 2:38 AM
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That does look like a rad climb. However, considering the inflationary exchange rate...in the U.S. that would only be about 11c.
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bandidopeco
Oct 18, 2004, 2:55 AM
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I know it's hard to underestimate how difficult it is to climb 5.14, but compared to sport, it is pretty rare. For an example take Grand Illusion, a 5.13c (and probably the world's first 5.13) at Sugarloaf, near South Lake Tahoe. This was first pink pointed in '79 and has been led placing your own gear just once, in '88 by Hidetaka Suzuki. I'm sure you've seen the photo.
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deleted
Deleted
Oct 18, 2004, 3:02 AM
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You can have my part of that. :shock:
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skecthballer
Oct 18, 2004, 3:06 AM
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true dat
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dkennedy
Oct 18, 2004, 3:13 AM
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In reply to: For an example take Grand Illusion, a 5.13c (and probably the world's first 5.13) at Sugarloaf, near South Lake Tahoe. This was first pink pointed in '79 and has been led placing your own gear just once, in '88 by Hidetaka Suzuki. I'm sure you've seen the photo.
Grand illusion has been redpointed by others. Just becuase you don't see it in the magazines doesn't mean it hasn't happened.
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bandidopeco
Oct 18, 2004, 3:23 AM
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hey, sorry if i am mistaken, i was just pointing out what's in the new SuperTopo guide
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kalcario
Oct 18, 2004, 3:32 AM
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Kudos to that guy for sending his proj, although I'm trying to think of other 5.14 crack climbs that have sinker hand jams on them and I'm coming up blank... but I wouldn't call that trad climbing, more like sport crack climbing, or just sport climbing, really. And why the helmet?
Extra style points for those Boreal Fire Classics, haven't seen those in a while...
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alpnclmbr1
Oct 18, 2004, 3:33 AM
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That video is rad.
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curt
Oct 18, 2004, 3:39 AM
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In reply to: Kudos to that guy for sending his proj, although I'm trying to think of other 5.14 crack climbs that have sinker hand jams on them and I'm coming up blank... but I wouldn't call that trad climbing, more like sport crack climbing, or just sport climbing, really. And why the helmet? Extra style points for those Boreal Fire Classics, haven't seen those in a while...
Hey Joe,
They don't all look "sinker" to me. A lot of those jams jook off-hand like Super Crack (Gunks version) or Sphinx Crack. Also, it looks Really steep.
Curt
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curt
Oct 18, 2004, 3:40 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Kudos to that guy for sending his proj, although I'm trying to think of other 5.14 crack climbs that have sinker hand jams on them and I'm coming up blank... but I wouldn't call that trad climbing, more like sport crack climbing, or just sport climbing, really. And why the helmet? Extra style points for those Boreal Fire Classics, haven't seen those in a while... Hey Joe, They don't all look "sinker" to me. A lot of those jams jook off-hand like Super Crack (Gunks version) or Sphinx Crack. Also, it looks really steep. Curt |
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marcallain
Oct 18, 2004, 11:41 AM
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Where in Quebec is the climb located??
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sir_chalkalot
Oct 18, 2004, 11:45 AM
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In reply to: Where in Quebec is the climb located??
Mt. King in Val David.
George.
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forkliftdaddy
Oct 18, 2004, 1:20 PM
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Seems that all of the 5.14 trad lines go only on pink point. Ron Kauk's 14a, that other, severely overhangin crack, 14a, and this. Must be a little hard to stand around and place that gear, eh?
Oddly enough, pink pointing is pretty old school. It predates red-pointing. In the R&I ethics issue Henry Barber talks about yo-yo-ing hard routes at the Gunks. This was the common way many aid lines were freed. But then folks started topull the rope. You'd go up as high as you could, fall, then pull the rope and go again until you pushed it through to the top. Very respectable.
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grayhghost
Oct 18, 2004, 2:33 PM
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Props to the climber.
Pinkpointing is just a stage in the route's
progression towards perfect style, and
it is fine if someone wants to show us
mortals what it looks like to be part of
that progression.
1.) aiding the route
2.) freeing the route with pre-placed gear
3.) freeing the route without p.p. gear
4.) flashing the route
5.) onsighting the route
6.) onsighting the route free-solo
7.) onsighting the route free-solo,
blindfolded with one arm behind
your back.
Kauk's route is called "Magic Line" 5.14b,
done with pre-placed gear.
There is a route Potter did outside of Moab,
which should check in around 14- which he
did redpoint-style.
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overlord
Oct 18, 2004, 2:41 PM
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now wonder it was "only" pinkpointed. whoever can climb this AND place gear is really good. i cant even imagine doing it. i hate cracks :wink:
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