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alpinerock
Oct 19, 2004, 3:39 AM
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We all hear about the newest crimpfest or overhung muntant pumpathon, but lets shift the focus for a sec. What is currently the worlds hardest offwidth ? I have no idea and am just curious.
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crux_clipper
Oct 19, 2004, 3:43 AM
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theres a grade 31 (5.13d) off width here in oz called 'mother of god'
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socalbolter
Oct 19, 2004, 3:46 AM
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another contender would probably be "belly full of bad berries" - mid 13 (?)
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bandidopeco
Oct 19, 2004, 3:49 AM
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I don't know the name of the wall, but on the shorter aproach to the snake dyke on half dome, when your passing through the ravine on your left will be a very large lightning bolt-esque flake. I went to do the snake dyke with Bridwell, and he said that this is as of yet unclimbed, but tried. It looks pretty tough for an off-width/squeeze (arn't they all?).
I'll post the pic then the link to it when i can.
I don't know what is considered the hardest off-width, but it'd be interesting to know.
(ps, if i'm wrong about this not being climbed, please tell me and you don't have to get all pissey about it.)
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tarzan420
Oct 19, 2004, 3:51 AM
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no one has mentioned lucille? Pics here and here.
I don't know, I can't climb that hard.
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tradklime
Oct 19, 2004, 4:33 PM
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It has always seemed to me that it's the one I'm attempting to climb.
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petsfed
Oct 19, 2004, 5:05 PM
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In reply to: no one has mentioned lucille? Pics here and here. I don't know, I can't climb that hard.
Lucille is hard, no doubt about that, but the crux is flaring squeeze chimney, not offwidth. The offwidth itself (above and below the crux) clocks in around low 5.10. The crux itself will stop you cold though. Its every bit a 5.12 sequence.
New Maps of Hell needs to be repeated, it might be in the running. I've heard Belly Full of Bad Berries was soft for 13a, but I don't climb that hard, so I can't qualify that.
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mr_dirt
Oct 20, 2004, 1:30 AM
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In reply to: It has always seemed to me that it's the one I'm attempting to climb. |
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fracture
Oct 20, 2004, 1:43 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: no one has mentioned lucille? Pics here and here. I don't know, I can't climb that hard. Lucille is hard, no doubt about that, but the crux is flaring squeeze chimney, not offwidth. The offwidth itself (above and below the crux) clocks in around low 5.10. The crux itself will stop you cold though. Its every bit a 5.12 sequence.
IIRC, it was also downgraded from 13a to like 12c, which takes it out of the running.
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boltdude
Oct 20, 2004, 1:49 AM
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The offwidths on Excalibur on El Cap are probably contenders, they're "only" 5.12b-d, but Schneider went into runout liebacking and back into ow, and Craig Luebben got shut down trying them. Any second free ascent of those?
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petsfed
Oct 20, 2004, 3:01 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: no one has mentioned lucille? Pics here and here. I don't know, I can't climb that hard. Lucille is hard, no doubt about that, but the crux is flaring squeeze chimney, not offwidth. The offwidth itself (above and below the crux) clocks in around low 5.10. The crux itself will stop you cold though. Its every bit a 5.12 sequence. IIRC, it was also downgraded from 13a to like 12c, which takes it out of the running.
Offwidths are hard to grade as it stands. However, the crux of Lucille is (like I said) flaring squeeze chimney, not offwidth. It is by that rationale that I said it doesn't count. Its still a bloody hard move that I cannot do (and I've tried).
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jaybro
Mar 26, 2005, 11:09 PM
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My own 2¢
The hardest in NA that I have done is is "the Belly" haven't climbed that ozzie rig or Craig's french climb.
New Maps of Hell is ~11c, I did the second shortly after Bob did the first.
The first hard ow pitch on Excalibur is a logistical nightmare ( hard to climb and protect at the same time) I could not onsight it, and that was the only time I've been there. The second OW pitch on the otherhand, is straight forward armbaring, on-sighted more than once; me, Altman, Werner that I know of.
I would like to know more about that climb on the Snake dike approach! Could that be "lightning Bolt crack" on Mt Broderick? I attempeted that one with Walt Shipley, once. actually I wimped out and had him show me god on it. Later it was bolted and freed at ~12a. If the reference is to somenting else I am inriqued!!
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angry
Mar 27, 2005, 3:44 PM
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Jaybro, I'm trying to piece together your posts, I'm going to go out on a limb here - are you Jay Anderson? That would stand to reason.
If you get back to the Vedauwoo area, there are lots of hard OW boulder problems. One unrepeated line called "8 ounces" it's turned down some pretty big names. Then there is that X rated problem over by the Citadel, it's a Bob thing I don't understand. Recently a new problem was discovered and sent (it's on private property, but the owner is cool if we call) it is 30 feet or so long out a cave (trench warfare-esque) then goes up a little. It's probably 12b boulder problem, aptly named IT.
Contact me, and I'll get you in touch with the one and only who's done "8 ounces". While it isn't a route, it may be the hardest OW around. If not that guy has done probably a dozen or more other unrepeated hard wide cracks, there might be one harder.
Me, I'm a little under your leauge, I have sent the classic V4 OW lines there and am up for squat and trip master as soon as it warms up. BTW, if you really are Jay Anderson, you might be interested to hear that a skinny dude from Ft. Collins sent Lucille this summer. It took 2 tries and he said with the proper moves it was 11+ (don't quote me on that). It sounds like it is HIGHLY body size dependant.
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woutdoor
Mar 27, 2005, 4:30 PM
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on the CRITICS CHOICE wall in Indian Creek
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boo-yeah
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Mar 27, 2005, 4:43 PM
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liquid sky on north sixshooter has only two ascents and many failures from qualified wide crack nutjobs. it's rated "5.11+".
ratings mean dick when it comes to OW.
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gunksgoer
Mar 27, 2005, 6:27 PM
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In reply to: liquid sky on north sixshooter has only two ascents and many failures from qualified wide crack nutjobs. it's rated "5.11+". ratings mean dick when it comes to OW.
yes, it seems to me many HARD offwidths (none of wich ive done) tend to be rated "5.11". I think many FAs are reluctant to slap a 12 on an offwidth, and many are sandbagged. 5.11 offwidth seems to be similar to 5.9+ trad, and 5.13+ trad, two berriers many people dont like to cross, even if a climb deserves a higher number.
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jaybro
Mar 29, 2005, 6:24 PM
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As fas as I can tell, Liquid sky is probably pretty size dependent as well.
Rob Miller and Cameron Cross(?) have made ascents and neither of them are huge. Craig Luebben at 6'3" ? was afraid of getting stuck for life.
Just conjecture, I haven't been up there to see.
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jaybro
Mar 29, 2005, 6:35 PM
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Fhsiz- yeah that's me. I heard that someone else had squirm up through that.
I will try to get to vedauwoo next summer, sounds like lots of cool new stuff. mired in work in califronia right now.
Andyonice told me about 8oz, that sounds especially cool. Isn't there a new bouldering guide coming out for there?
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crotch
Mar 29, 2005, 7:19 PM
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I heard tell of a pretty hard offwidth just up past Whitney Portal. Right after you gain the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, there are two wide cracks high up on your left. Both overhang. Any repeats? One of the guys working at the Portal Store said he climbed them. I think "Peachy" was what he called the harder one.
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petsfed
Mar 30, 2005, 7:54 PM
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In reply to: Fhsiz- yeah that's me. I heard that someone else had squirm up through that. I will try to get to vedauwoo next summer, sounds like lots of cool new stuff. mired in work in califronia right now. Andyonice told me about 8oz, that sounds especially cool. Isn't there a new bouldering guide coming out for there?
Comes out this friday. I can't produce a webpage for you. It's being produced with Zach Orenzak, but word on the street says that Orenzak is half a step from being run out of Wyoming by a torch bearing crowd (and that's seperate from what fshizzle's said about him). Book is by Davin Bagdonas. 600 problems over 224 pages.
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jaybro
Mar 31, 2005, 2:59 PM
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Petsfed
Cool, can you direct us (me) to this info? this forum seems devoid of non instant cantact info. But you can get me through supertacos.
Having been tared and feathered myself, I'm not gonna judge folks I don't know, not much, at least not third hand.
Climb not slander
can't we all get along?
Vhy can't ve choost climb?
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studs
Apr 27, 2005, 10:14 AM
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Get Your butts over to Madrid.I´ve got some candidates for hardest OW.
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overlord
Apr 27, 2005, 10:45 AM
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In reply to: theres a grade 31 (5.13d) off width here in oz called 'mother of god'
damn right its a mother of god. i cant climb "normal" .13d and id probably just crap my pats while only looking at that.
me and offwidths have a love-hate relationship. when im on the ground looking at one i really love it and start planning to climb the thing.
but when im climbing it i really hate it and curse myself for doing it. what was it again that i was missing on the ground and had to climb here to get it???
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avalon420
Apr 28, 2005, 1:46 AM
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In reply to: ratings mean dick when it comes to off widths[/quote yeah thats cause only drunks climb OW, and thus rate them(not trying too hate u cats, i just wish i could open a beer W/a big bro) :lol:
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jaybro
Apr 28, 2005, 1:55 AM
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You CAN open a beer with a bigbro, as long as it's a bottle.
The first think I ever did with a Bigbro was the beerbottle test.
Aim high, drink cautiasly
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