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ipass9
Oct 19, 2004, 6:30 AM
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do i need my own slings or are they already there and just clip them?
cheers people
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nthusiastj
Oct 19, 2004, 11:15 PM
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????
There are bolts in the walls. You will need your own quickdraws though.
You can rent them at a giude shop there too.
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ipass9
Oct 20, 2004, 12:29 AM
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i have seen on some guides that say "four bolts and three threads" just was wondering about the "threads", it throu a pocket in the limestone but are the slings already hung??
thanks dude
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climbs4fun
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Oct 20, 2004, 1:49 AM
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climbs4fun moved this thread from Community to International.
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nthusiastj
Oct 20, 2004, 4:33 AM
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OH! Yeah, they are already there. Usually older climbing ropes threaded through the holes. At least on the routes I did.
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benpullin
Oct 20, 2004, 4:57 AM
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All you need to do is clip a draw to the thread. You don't need to bring runners/slings of any kind, unless you like to use them at hanging belays on the multi-pitch routes.
The threads are sections of old climbing ropes tied in a loop with a double fisherman's knot. These are used in lieu of bolts on routes with lots of attached tufas. There were a couple routes I did there in Feb. where the only bolts were at the top of the pitch.
The threads are sometimes more bomber than the bolts, as you'll soon see if you're going to Railay.
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boltdude
Oct 20, 2004, 5:34 AM
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Even old threads in Thailand are typically stronger and more reliable than any of the non-Titanium bolts - saw a guy take a 30 footer on a core-shot thread that Shamick said he'd replaced 6 years ago (remember that Thailand is high UV too!).
Few people maintain threads, which is not exactly rocket science - we replaced more than 50 threads last winter (yep, I'm hopeless, even on vacation I end up doing anchor work). Most of the time, a knife and knowing how to tie a double fisherman's is all you need. Some threads are tricky, it can help to have a nut tool or some imagination (like snagging the end of the rope with the loop of a wired stopper to pull it through the hole). Also, some threads are drilled threads, and skinny rope pieces are often needed (9.5 or so). It can be hard to get the old rope out of drilled thread holes. We replaced all the threads on all the 6's on Hueco Wall, among many others.
Many of the climbing shops will give you old rope fragments if you need to replace some threads, although sometimes their fragments are even nastier than what's on the cliff!
A few threads are just skinny webbing (since a rope won't fit through the small hole), and those are way more suspect than rope threads - my experience with those in Thailand is never trust any of them unless the webbing looks new and feels soft.
Lastly, sometimes the threads are protected from sharp edges and UV by threading them through pieces of 1" tubular webbing. Sometimes the webbing looks super old, but check the rope itself, which may be new - we re-used old webbing fragments to protect new ropes in a bunch of spots.
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ipass9
Oct 20, 2004, 5:29 PM
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thanks guys lots of help!!
see you on the beach this winter!!!
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stevep
Oct 20, 2004, 5:49 PM
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I'd bring a few pieces of webbing. Some of the threads we saw were pretty sketchy looking and we just felt better about replacing them.
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