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losgadh
Oct 19, 2004, 7:04 PM
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Belaying Styles...Hand over Hand, or the Sliding Method?
I really prefer the hand over hand as then I ALWAYS have a hand firmly clamped on the brake; Especially when belaying someone who weighs more than I. However some people have never seen that style and chide me. I can do either method. But by sliding your hand you cause a few seconds where the rope is not under your total control. Doesnt seem as safe.
Thoughts??
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sarcat
Oct 19, 2004, 7:06 PM
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I do a right hand over left hand under method. Like you I never don't have a positive grip on the rope.
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losgadh
Oct 19, 2004, 7:10 PM
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and no one gives you grief for it?
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sarcat
Oct 19, 2004, 7:20 PM
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No one ever has. I don't see how anyone can argue against a postitively locked off rope position while belaying.
I would say the nuances of belaying while on top rope are different than belaying a lead climb. I've found myself holding the brake side of the rope with both hands most of the time. It allows for a quick take/quick slack or a rest by either hand anytime.
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jbell2355
Oct 19, 2004, 7:49 PM
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I also prefer the hand over hand method and have gotten comments about it. Bottom line is that if the climber I'm belaying prefers sliding, that's how I'll do it.
The people opposed to the hand over hand method argue that if you're tired or inattentive, there is a possibility that you could let go with the wrong hand at the wrong time. I can sort of see their point, but I think that if you understand you're belay method and you're comfortable with your method, then that is probably the way you should do it.
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losgadh
Oct 19, 2004, 8:23 PM
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In reply to: Bottom line is that if the climber I'm belaying prefers sliding, that's how I'll do it.
But if You feel more confident with one method over the other then I think you should do it your way. Wouldn't your climber want you to do it the way you felt most confident? Confident=Safter
I've had climbers Insist I do it hand-over-hand and I've had climbers Insist I slide. Seems like If you trust me enough to clip in with me, then you should trust my judgement to know which one I feel is better suited for me. Especially since both are safe methods.
If i was doing something Unsafe, then that would be one thing. But if I'm being safe then why quibble over it? Ya know??
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jbell2355
Oct 19, 2004, 8:28 PM
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In reply to: But if You feel more confident with one method over the other then I think you should do it your way. Wouldn't your climber want you to do it the way you felt most confident?
I agree with you. I've only ever had one person mention it and she was basically saying that at the gym where she works, they wouldn't find my belay technique acceptable. I took that to mean that she didn't like it, so when I belayed her, I used the sliding method. I feel completely confident with either method...in fact, her comments helped me to perfect the sliding method.
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soulwithoutfear
Oct 19, 2004, 8:28 PM
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I stick with the sliding method. Ive had people who way a few times more than me fall while I'm still taking up slack and have had no problems. As long as you stay concentrated on the belaying and no the climber then you are golden. I have nothing wrong with the hand-over-hand method but if someone looks like they are not doing the hand-over-hand right then I'll ask them to do the sliding method.
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snowrocker
Oct 19, 2004, 9:27 PM
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Who cares, it's not your life. All you need to worry about is how to dodge the falling body. :twisted:
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elpollo
Oct 20, 2004, 1:18 AM
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whatever style you use to maneuver the rope is, i think, irrelevant if your belaying on top rope, but if itīs leading you want to be able to feed and take fast, so i think sliding is a lot better. even if you slide the chances of the climber falling while you dont have the rope under firm grip are small, and even if that moment comes the climber will probably fall only slightly more, on the other hand if you dont give him enough rope when making a clip he could fall a lot more.. so i think the sliding way is a lot better
but anyway works, so... :D
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slobmonster
Oct 20, 2004, 2:48 AM
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I usually wear a beret, a vest, and a frilly lace cravat.
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rocloco
Oct 20, 2004, 3:27 AM
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wee wee
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dood
Oct 20, 2004, 3:48 AM
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In reply to: Belaying Styles...Hand over Hand, or the Sliding Method? I really prefer the hand over hand as then I ALWAYS have a hand firmly clamped on the brake; Especially when belaying someone who weighs more than I. However some people have never seen that style and chide me. I can do either method. But by sliding your hand you cause a few seconds where the rope is not under your total control. Doesnt seem as safe. Thoughts??
My thoughts?
NEVER TAKE YOUR BRAKE HAND OFF THE ROPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now, isn't that simple?
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collegekid
Oct 20, 2004, 5:06 AM
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I don't see how it could possibly be more difficult to catch a fall with your left hand, as opposed to right hand.
Just to verify the "hand over hand" style of belaying:
Rope feeds in through upper side of atc, out though lower side; hands alternate matching and pulling rope down through atc, palm facing down (more precisely, pinky down), while opposite hand pulls slack in from climber's end.
With this method, either hand can pull to its respective side and lock off. Also, you can use your triceps to pull the rope through more quickly, as opposed to using your shoulders. You can alternate methods as well; when the climber is effectively on top rope, you use hand over hand method; when the climber is above a bolt, you switch to sliding method to feed out slack faster. Of course, I'm probably not the best at the sliding method, which is why I feel more comfortable with the hand over hand method.
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