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flamer
Nov 1, 2004, 6:25 PM
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As the years wind down I like to think about what I did in that year. I kind of gauge my year by what I routes I did and what I accomplished.
Here is my list...please share yours!!
I started the year off with an early January ascent of Epinephrine in Red Rock. We had gotten chased out of Zion by nasty snow and ice condition's and found RR to be manageable...This was the first time I'd ever seen Blue climbable ice in the Canyon's at RR!!
In March I took another Road trip that started with surfing in Baja...mmmm surfing....
Then back to Red Rock for a couple weeks, where I rope soloed Crimson crysalis.I also Climbed the gobbler(with the great DrKodos), we had a slight problem and I learned how to saw through a rope using a sandstone edge. The same week I set the onsight solo speed record on Johnny Vegas, and the team record for Olive oil. The Red Reock Rendevous was going on that week and I met a ton of really cool folks.
I stopped off in Zion on my way home and did Space shot in under 7 hours.
In April I bought my first home.
I spent a rainy couple of days in Moab, which led to me discovering the truly awesome climbing in Unaweep canyon. Unaweep is like a "mini Black canyon" and it's right outside Grand Junction.
In early May I made an attempt on the Halucinogen wall in The Black Canyon. On this climb I learned that I am mature enough as a climber to know when to bail. We got seriously spanked by the weather but made some very good decision's and made out ok. A learning experience for sure.
In mid May my Brother got married!
On July 1st I made an attempt to set the solo speed record on Blitzen Ridge in RMNP. I found the route in poor condition and just missed the time I was shooting for, but I still had a fairly good time. I learned alot about myself and how hard I could push. I also learned a lesson on the light and fast mantra that I love...KEEP MOVING!!!
The end of July I had planned to try the Grand Traverse in the Tetons, in a day. About 2 weeks ahead of time I lost motivation and bailed on my partner. Then about 5 days out I changed my mind again and tried to contact my partner. I then found out that my partner had made a solo attempt at the Traverse and had fallen to his death. This had a big impact on me and really made me think. RIP Dwight.
I biked up Mt Evans. in Colo.
Participated in Bill Wrights 3rd Flatiron time trail- CTC 44:17- got smoked by most of the field!!!
In August I climbed the Southern Arete of the Painted wall in the Black canyon. This was the most dehydrated (and pretty close to the most worked) I have ever been. At some point during this climb I decided I was going to quit climbing...HaHa!! It's funny what dehydration will do to your head. I also had the privlege of sharing this climb with a great friend.
I replaced the rappel route(bolts etc.) on the Black wall on Mt Evans.
In the end of Sept. I headed to Yosemite valley. I climbed Skull Queen(IAD w/fixing) with a cool new partner, I climbed the Steck-Salathe' with another new partner and was lucky enough to get all the crux pitch's, I climbed the E. butt of El cap with yet another new partner and once again got to lead all crux's. I onsighted Serenity to Sons, which had been a long term goal, and got to do it with a very good friend.
Next up was some good surfing around Ventura Calif. and hanging with a very good friend.
Then One more trip to Red Rock, where first on my list was an onsight, rope-solo ascent of Prince of Darkness. I got a couple of days cragging in then did a new route with a fun new partner. I also got to have dinner with a local legend, who is an old friend of my fathers. They hadn't seen each other in 35 years and it was super cool to see them reconnect.
My trip ended with an ascent of Fridge air buttress, with another Rc.com'r.
I got lot's of other good climbing(and other stuff) in this year, but these are the things that really stick out. I did alot of learning this year funny how climbing can make you understand yourself better.....
So what did YOU do this year??? Come on give it up!!!
josh
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gblauer
Moderator
Nov 1, 2004, 6:29 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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i was featured in a rock climbing documentary
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dingus
Nov 1, 2004, 6:34 PM
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Here is the sum total of all the climbing I did on the official Memorial Day to Labor Day summer vacay:
Cheers
DMT
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robmcc
Nov 1, 2004, 6:39 PM
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Damn, flamer.
That's a solid S12 if I've ever seen one. :lol:
Rob
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flamer
Nov 1, 2004, 8:19 PM
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In reply to: Damn, flamer. That's a solid S12 if I've ever seen one. :lol: Rob
Please tell me what an S12 is?
josh
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leinosaur
Nov 1, 2004, 8:49 PM
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I'm guessing "Spray 12!"
& you sent it, brah!
As for me,
I climbed all summer,
and got much better!
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flamer
Nov 1, 2004, 9:01 PM
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In reply to: I'm guessing "Spray 12!"
Ok....post deleted...sorry you guys thought I was spraying.....
carry on....
josh
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robmcc
Nov 1, 2004, 9:15 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm guessing "Spray 12!" Ok....post deleted...sorry you guys thought I was spraying..... carry on.... josh
Awww, put it back!
I meant it in an entirely lighthearted, good natured way. :D
Rob
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dfoerstel
Nov 1, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Josh,
Glad I was able to browse through your TR before you pulled it. Looks like you had a great summer. Nice accomplishments!
Dave
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sarcat
Nov 1, 2004, 9:55 PM
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Whosoever is NOT guilty of any S# let them cast the first spray....
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mother_sheep
Nov 1, 2004, 10:13 PM
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In reply to: Josh, Glad I was able to browse through your TR before you pulled it. Looks like you had a great summer. Nice accomplishments! Dave
I got the live version. . .he told me.
Josh. . .I beat on my chest and offer out a big old gorilla grunt to you!!! You are badass!!!
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pt
Nov 1, 2004, 10:32 PM
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I like spray. It helps motivate me when I see what other people are pulling off. It also helps identify future projects when somebody goes on about how awesome some climb was. I didn't see the original post but I wouldn't mind reading it.
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ambler
Nov 1, 2004, 10:41 PM
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Here's another vote to put the TR back in. Don't be so sensitive, it's the Internet for chrissakes. Looked like you had a good year. 8^)
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flamer
Nov 2, 2004, 12:20 AM
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Ok, ok,...but now I'll have to rewrite....
I really would like to hear what alot of you guys did this summer....
That was truly my intent here!!
I just don't want folks to think I was trying to spray/ make myself look like some kind'a hardman....cause I'm not.....
josh
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sandbag
Nov 2, 2004, 12:22 AM
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In reply to: Ok, ok,...but now I'll have to rewrite.... I really would like to hear what alot of you guys did this summer.... That was truly my intent here!! I just don't want folks to think I was trying to spray/ make myself look like some kind'a hardman....cause I'm not..... josh
Dude, youre totally a sprayer
You re a hose monkey!!! ;)
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cologman
Nov 2, 2004, 12:36 AM
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D*mn I want to see what the Bru ha ha is all about. :shock:
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flamer
Nov 2, 2004, 1:49 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Ok...I put it back...it's alittle more indepth this time...
PLEASE SHARE YOUR STORIES!!! I love to hear about people enjoying themselves, learning, and LIVING!!!
josh
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ricardol
Nov 2, 2004, 2:01 AM
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sweeet ... a spray fest thread .. (i love to spray) ..
The routes that stand out for me this year ...
chrimson chrysalis (ticked it this time!)
ginger cracks (chossy at the top)
(unfortunately i only went to red rocks once this year)
some cool hiking in the grand canyon
led all pitches on East Buttress of Middle (and did not fall at the crux)
led the 5.9 crux on super slab
led all pitches on regular route of fairview
led 5.10b (Hawaiian Noises at Pinnacles -- sport)
led scary 5.9 at pinnacles (Trauma)
had an outstanding time with john on Goldmember, and Shagadelic, South crack.. (that weekend i did more simul climbing than ever before!)
got spanked on Crescent Arch..
bailed off of el cap's Son Of Heart (that turned out to be a good thing, after i heard what tom and pete went through to send that later in the year)
Soloe'd Tangerine Trip in 7 days.
And i still have my first JTree trip ever coming up for thanksgiving..
ahh -- did everyone get hit with the spray .. if not i can try again ..
-- ricardo
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cologman
Nov 2, 2004, 4:44 AM
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Some of my high points overlap with Flamers but here goes,
January, an introduction to the wonderful rock of Red Rock and the delights of the Epi Chimneys :lol: . Saved by the weather from winter exploits on the walls of Zion my partner turned me on to Vegas Baby!
February, as much as I like being turned on to new places and climbs I love turning my friends on to some of my favorites. I showed kcrag her first desert tower summits. Climbing first Owl Rock in Arches and then Kor/Ingals on Castleton I gave her a good taste of the desert.
March, time to play the wall game again. This time I took kcrag, again on her first wall climb doing Prodigal Sun in Zion.
April, not to be outdone my daughter demands equal time on the rocks and this time she wanted to do her first wall. So off to Zion again and a repeat of Prodigal Son.
Late April came the piece de resistance when I tackled the Halucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon with a good friend and came away with a firm appreciation of all it takes to be sucessful in climbing and that goes beyond reaching the top. Good decision making kept us alive.
May back to the Black Canyon and climbing with my daughter and a friend of hers. We do Journey Home as a threesome and have a truely wonderful day climbing in this magnificent setting.
June back to the Black, do you see a trend here? :? Kcrag experiences the awsome void for the first time as we do Journey Home.
July, and its Alpine season. Kcrag and I do Culp/Bossier on Halletts Peak in RMNP. The butresses of Halletts are some of the most enjoyable alpine climbing I know of and with over 25 ascents of the butresses I don't think I'll ever get tired of them.
August, it time to get hard again. Off to the Black Canyon I go with a very good partner and friend to do what could arguably be the longest hard free route in Colorado. We tackle the Southern Arete on the Painted Wall. Heat, length of climb and overall commitment conspire to keep us just under the epic threshhold. Climbing teamwork and perseverance prove to be the key to a memorable day(albeit a long one). We also learn that truely great climbs are more than just difficulty and length and somehow the Southern Arete falls short.
September, my daughter has started college at CU and my partner for so many memorable climbs is no longer right at hand. We make up for the separation by taking a quick trip to the Moab area and get on Fine Jade on day one and are beat off just above the crux pitch by a whopper of a thunderstorm. Descending while our ropes whip out of sight around the east side of the Rectory provides the adenalin factor. Day two and three we climb the magnificent cracks of Scarface Wall and Pistol Whipped Wall returning north on day four to do Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.
And finally October, I have to end the good part of the season back in my favorite stomping grounds and I introduce two more friends to the majesty of the Black Canyon. We do two moderate routes that leave them impressed and ready to come back again come spring.
Ah yes and for the rest of the year and next........ :P
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nextascent
Nov 2, 2004, 4:55 AM
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Spray? I'm not sure at what point it becomes spray but my entire summer was about climbing...for the first time! Started with nothing (no knowledge)....asked questions, got on this site, hired a guide and went to it. It felt like 0-60 speed runs. Every time I did more, every time I learned so much. So while I'm not hitting any big walls/numbers (yet ;) ) I took the sponge approach and soaked it all in; learned (anchors, cleaning, placing gear, knots, safety, etc).
Comfortably climbing 5.9's, did my first lead and can muscle through 5.10's when no one tells me what the route it is first (funny they just say "sure Lisa..you can do this no problem" umph).
So for me? It's awesome..I have a new love, a new way to be outside, met excellent ppl and am now (gulp) addicted.
My summer TR was the introduction to climbing...it was one my best summers I've ever had! :)
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pt
Nov 2, 2004, 3:00 PM
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My year started great. I did a trip to Red Rocks and finally got on Levitation 29. What a great route! I then did a trip to the Moab area. Had a great time at the Dylan Wall in the San Rafeal Swell, followed by a climb of The Primrose Dihedrals on Moses. I then went to Eleven Mile Canyon and promptly dislocated my shoulder on the second pitch of the weekend! I wasn't able to climb for three months so I spent most of the summer hiking and made two trips up Clark's Arrow on Longs Peak. Finally at the end of August I started climbing again. I started on 5.7's and 5.8's and learned how important climbing is to me and how fun it is to just be out with friends. Numbers really didn't matter at all, just climbing was enough. Now that I'm climbing regularly again I'm having a blast and rediscovering old climbs I haven't done in a while. I did a couple of road trips as I got stronger and made it up to the Tetons for a climb of Irene's arete with my wife. We also did a nice trip to Turkey Rocks to climb some granite splitters. Hopefully I'll stay injury free for next year!
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flamer
Nov 2, 2004, 3:00 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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ricardol, cologman, and nextascent.....
Thanks!! That's exactly what I was hoping to see!!!
Looks like you all had great years!!
josh
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dfoerstel
Nov 2, 2004, 3:46 PM
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First trip to Yosemite Valley....ever! (and I've lived in California all my life)
First trip to Tuolumne.....amazing!
First trip to Red Rocks....Only a day but it was great.
Started leading trad earlier this year..... Joshua Tree, Rock Creek, Yosemite, Tuolumne, Sespe Gorge (can't get enough)
Able to bump up my sport leads by a couple of grades.
Just because it's winter, I don't plan on slowing down.
LIVESTRONG
Dave
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cracklover
Nov 2, 2004, 4:04 PM
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I did my first little desert tower - Easter Island on the Bridger Jack buttress at Indian Creek. It felt incredible to get to the top of something, by my own power, that could only be reached by technical climbing. A lifelong dream. I also did Incredible Hand Crack at IC.
I led all eight (full length) pitches of Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff. This felt like another milestone.
I began to truly push my physical limits on trad climbing, and as a result, my hardest trad onsight is within a couple letters of my hardest sport onsight. I also pushed into (attempting) whole new numbers, on both sport and trad.
I started teaching myself aid.
And best of all, I had some wonderful, incredible times with climbing partners this year. Thank you all.
GO
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takeme
Nov 2, 2004, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: As the years wind down I like to think about what I did in that year. I kind of gauge my year by what I routes I did and what I accomplished. Here is my list...please share yours!!
Josh, it sounds like you had a great year. Thanks for starting this, I like these kind of threads.
I did a lot of climbing in Eldo and Boulder Canyon this year. Probably the most memorable moment was unexpectedly whipping 25' down the arete on the final pitch of Doub-Griffth (thanks to Josh Janes for catching me!). I did go back up and finish the pitch, but I have a score to settle there. I also finally sent Guenese and Country Club Crack and then proceeded to fall off both of them on toprope later on.
In march I took a week long trip to the Moab-area desert. Mostly to climb towers, interspersed with a couple of cragging days. On my first ever visit to the Bridger Jacks, we climbed Easter Island, Sparkling Touch, and the amazing Thumbelina, which is now my favorite bolted route in the world (don't know if it's fair to call it a sport route). Up in Castle Valley, we did Fine Jade (3rd time in 6 months, that route is unbelievably good!), North Chimney, and Jah Man.
May and June were Black Canyon time. With various partners, I climbed the Scenic Cruise, my all-time favorite route, for the third time; as well as Checkerboard Wall, Journey Home, Escape Artist, and Comic Relief. Oh, and 1/2 of another route which we won't mention, complete with another 25 footer! These trips included the undeniable pleasure of introducing the Black Canyon for 2 first timers: Chrissy Sloan and Justin Wilcox. I was also lucky enough to meet "Flamer" and "Cologman" just as they finished hauling their pigs out of the Cruise Gully, after their epic on Hallucinogen. They were in amazingly good spirits, which I chalk up to being alive.
Summer ushered in alpine rock season. In RMNP, climbed the South Ridge of Notchtop, and Pervertical on Longs with Justin, while watching waterfalls cascade down most other parts of the Diamond. Did a half dozen or so routes in the Wind Rivers with Chrissy, the highlights being the wild and unique (and cold) North Ridge of Steeple Pk., and an obscure route called Symbiosis in an obscure area (South Pass), which turned out to be awesome, despite the lichen and moss in the cracks. If you're headed for Winds and want a true wilderness experience, but also really good climbing, do this route! (PM me for more details if you want).
Finally made my first trip to California, with Justin, who luckily was climbing extremely well at the time. I was starting to fade. Yosemite was actually somewhat of a disappointment; because of the heat, we climbed only one route in the Valley--the E Buttress of Middle--and it did not live up the expectations engendered by it's 3 star rating and 50 classic status. With the conspicuous exception of the spectacular Oz, neither did the 4-5 routes we did in Tuolumne. Of course, we did fail to even get on the Regular Route of Fairview Dome despite multiple attempts.
Our alpine excursions were great though--Third Pillar of Dana and Red Dihedral. And Positive Vibes is now on my all time must-do list. The Hulk is truly spectacular. We finished the trip with a very long detour south to check out the Needles, which, despite some spankings, was worth every one of the many pennies we spent on gas to get there. Thin Ice and Airy Interlude were the highlights there; an epic on the Pit and the Pendulum the lowlight.
This fall, I was pretty burned out so I took time off, and for now, I'm mostly bouldering (with the exception of one ill-advised trip to Indian Creek). Overall, though, it's been a great year.
Charles
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