|
ikellen
Nov 4, 2004, 6:09 PM
Post #1 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
Here's a video of me onsighting a route at my local gym. The route is around 5.10c/d, depending. It features slopers, crimps, and a roof to pull. Enjoy, my brother shot it, excuse the shakiness in the beginning :P
http://students.hightechhigh.org/...ing/kellen-5_10c.wmv
|
|
|
|
|
johnson6102002
Nov 4, 2004, 6:22 PM
Post #2 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2004
Posts: 843
|
In reply to: Here's a video of me onsighting a route at my local gym. The route is around 5.10c/d, depending. It features slopers, crimps, and a roof to pull. Enjoy, my brother shot it, excuse the shakiness in the beginning :P http://students.hightechhigh.org/...ing/kellen-5_10c.wmv |
|
|
|
|
ikellen
Nov 4, 2004, 6:24 PM
Post #3 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
its not a redpoint, I agree. I had never tried the route before. Definition of "Onsight":
Onsight - n/vb. a clean ascent with no falls, first try, with no prior knowledge of the route.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Nov 4, 2004, 6:28 PM
Post #4 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Can you ever really onsight in the gym? The holds are taped, it's like having a roadmap to the route. Sounds like 'prior knowledge' to me. As another aside, I've learned most of the gym holds after a few years, and tend to know what's coming.
Hijak!
|
|
|
|
|
taualum23
Nov 4, 2004, 6:31 PM
Post #5 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370
|
While I really think the argument doesn't mattere (dude, you're climbing in a gym) the point can be raised of heavily chalked climbs outside, or straightforward splitter cracks, isn't that prior knowledge?
|
|
|
|
|
crimpandgo
Nov 4, 2004, 6:31 PM
Post #6 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2004
Posts: 1005
|
Nice video.
Pretty big holds for a 10c. Are the holds smaller than they look?
|
|
|
|
|
jammer
Nov 4, 2004, 6:33 PM
Post #7 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
|
The vid is good, but the it's still SPRAY!
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Nov 4, 2004, 6:33 PM
Post #8 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Yeah, chalk does provide beta. However, I've been victimized by heavily chalked 'sucker holds' when there's better stuff out there.
|
|
|
|
|
taualum23
Nov 4, 2004, 6:37 PM
Post #9 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370
|
True enough about the suckert holds...but then again, isn't tape in a gym the same thing? The best beta might not be using every hold, or it may be useful only as a foot. The tape is the same as chalk. But if that chalk does, indeed negate the possibility of an onsight, I would concede that so does tape. Again...who cares? Nice job on a first try 10c.
|
|
|
|
|
ikellen
Nov 4, 2004, 6:39 PM
Post #10 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
In reply to: Nice video. Pretty big holds for a 10c. Are the holds smaller than they look?
Yeah it eases in places, but without good footwork, you could get shutdown quickly on it. Lots of flagging, and the cool drop knee by the anchors.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Nov 4, 2004, 7:10 PM
Post #11 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
adds one more dimension to the onsight thing... if you climb in the gym long enough you know exactly what holds are on a route before leaving the ground.. quite handy to know that the left side of a sloper is better than the right.. etc etc
good send anyway :)
|
|
|
|
|
crimpandgo
Nov 4, 2004, 7:13 PM
Post #12 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2004
Posts: 1005
|
In reply to: In reply to: Nice video. Pretty big holds for a 10c. Are the holds smaller than they look? Yeah it eases in places, but without good footwork, you could get shutdown quickly on it. Lots of flagging, and the cool drop knee by the anchors.
Yeh, I hear ya. It always looks easier when your not climbing it. :) Good job and good video
|
|
|
|
|
shank
Nov 4, 2004, 7:52 PM
Post #13 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 541
|
Shouldn't this be in the indoor gym forum?
|
|
|
|
|
saltamonte
Nov 4, 2004, 8:00 PM
Post #14 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2004
Posts: 237
|
well done
I know how and where to store photos online to create links in places like photobucket. but can anyone tell me where and how to upload video links like the in the original post here?. preferably a way to do it for free
|
|
|
|
|
iclimbtoo
Nov 4, 2004, 10:00 PM
Post #15 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 10, 2002
Posts: 645
|
Video of cranking plastic!!?? :shock: .10c? in a GYM!!! Almost looks like index or the creek... :roll: :roll:
I am appauled at myself for even adding commentary to this thread. I apologize to those looking down on me for doing so....
:cry: :cry:
as far as the video...thanks for sharing, but johnson6102002 was right: onsighting in the gym!? :roll: people are gonna rip you a new one!
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Nov 5, 2004, 1:01 PM
Post #16 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
butt shots of a gym climber :roll: and i wont even comment the grade :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
pcfcclmbr
Nov 5, 2004, 8:50 PM
Post #17 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 46
|
No worse than some of the stuff I see on video. Besides you look young so nice job, you looke smooth. don't anyone over 18 send vids.
|
|
|
|
|
happyfra
Nov 7, 2004, 6:17 PM
Post #19 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2004
Posts: 91
|
Nice video on_sight_man! By the way, may I ask what is the song you used as soundtrack? I love it.
Thank you
Francesco
|
|
|
|
|
discolegsyndrome
Nov 7, 2004, 6:30 PM
Post #20 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 250
|
In reply to: may I ask what is the song you used as soundtrack?
Monkey Man by The Specials
Great video! :D
|
|
|
|
|
valeberga
Nov 7, 2004, 7:47 PM
Post #21 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 434
|
Yep this is in the wrong forum.
|
|
|
|
|
on_sight_man
Nov 9, 2004, 3:33 PM
Post #22 of 22
(4251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 11, 2002
Posts: 628
|
I like it. It's me :) A random guy took it in Indian Creek and then sent it to me a month or so later. Funny, cause that song has history for me and he didn't know it...
|
|
|
|
|
|
