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peroxide
Nov 10, 2004, 5:44 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 117
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Hey!
After 2 glorious years of living in Portugal I will be moving to the UK. I know the weather may be poorer, but the climbing will be better.
I am looking for recommendations on where people train in the UK for crack climbing and aiding.
I have done SF of Washington Column etc. (and short aid routes up to A2+) and while I can struggle successfully up 5.8 Yosemite cracks I need to improve my crack climbing skills to make the most of my trips back to the valley. All the limestone pocket pulling has destroyed my trad technique.
Best real jam cracks to best simulate and develop my climbing skills in the UK (preferably the Peak District). Any help would be much appreciated. I would like to no longer rely so heavily on brute strength and bouldering power to get me up those splitters.
Half Dome and the Muir are calling me....I want to be ready.
Rock on,
Peroxide
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peroxide
Nov 11, 2004, 9:33 AM
Post #2 of 5
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Registered: May 3, 2004
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gritstoner
Nov 11, 2004, 10:43 AM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2003
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any of the gritstone edges have fantastic cracks of all widths. the peak is full of them. aid climbing however is a different prospect. with the possible exception of yarding on a bolt ever now and again. aid climbing hasnt really existed in britain (to my knowledge) since the end of the whack and dangle days in the 60's and early 70's. that you will probably have to learn on route.
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mickb
Nov 13, 2004, 10:32 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2003
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Millstone quarry in the peak district probably has the largest selections of crack climbs of various difficulty for you to train on.
I know of another guy who has been using this venue as his training for doing the nose in a day. Leading all the pitches himself.
Send me an email if you fancy meeting up when your over here.
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capslock
Nov 29, 2004, 10:57 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Must agree with mickb In reply to: Millstone quarry in the peak district probably has the largest selections of crack climbs of various difficulty for you to train on.
mickb, peroxide if your up for a days climbing give me a shout!!
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