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bkenney
Nov 10, 2004, 6:59 PM
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I am relatively new to climbing and just started to really get into bouldering. my problem/question is I have a real hard time doing dynos, and was wonderng if there is a specific technique I should be following? I originally thought the difficulty spured from me being short (5'4). I quickly came to the realization that this was false when I saw a 13 yr old girl who was about 5'1 do a dyno on the first shot that I was trying to do for 15 mins. at the gym :(. Needless to say I was pretty embarassed. After that I knew I was doing something wrong. Does anyone out there have any technique or form tips for these moves???
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greyicewater
Nov 10, 2004, 7:02 PM
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train, campusing will help with this a lot. i'm not really one for dynos, i just don't like them, i think that they're kind of pointless, but fun to do once in a while. but yeah, campusing will help strengthen your arms for this...
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climbinginchico
Nov 10, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Use your feet. Try to used your arms to guide and control the movement, and your feet to provide the power.
This might mean moving your feet farther up than you would normally consider doing. Trust me, it works.
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bkenney
Nov 10, 2004, 7:08 PM
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Thanks. But its not so much arm/finger strength as it is actually getting the height to get my hands on the hold.
BTW - what is campusing? (as you can see I'm pretty green) :?
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juststrange
Nov 10, 2004, 7:13 PM
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Arms help, but most of its in the legs. I usually lock my elbows and squat low, then push away and up with my legs, kinda making me move in an arch, release at just the right second and watch the hold your aiming for.
I can't seem to get the direct link to it, but if you visit http://www.8a.nu/site2/ then go to the articles page, and then the one your looking for is titled DYNOING, its under Training, last one, it should be obvious.
I'm only 5'6" and I kinda had to learn dynos to keep up with my tall long armed friends. Learn to fly............
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caughtinside
Nov 10, 2004, 7:18 PM
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At this point, working on dynos is not going to help your climbing. You should focus on moving statically, and under control. Dynos are fun, but they aren't really a useful move for easier climbs/problems, and will probably hinder your technique.
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shiva523
Nov 10, 2004, 7:21 PM
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Campusing is climbing without the use of feet. Campusing is usually done on juggy holds, but can be done on other types.
Two key factors for dynos
a)Concentrate mostly on your feet. Don't be afraid to bring your feet into an akwardly high position.
b)Maximize your lower body power! Explode from your feet and fully extend. Don't be afraid to stand on those feet.
The biggest mistake I see in many dynos is that people will fire off from their feet, but not fully extend. Obviously this can't be done on walls that are not completely vertical (overhangs and protruding extensions in rock require other techniques for avoiding banging knees and such). Many climbers stop the movement halfway and either miss or end up pushing themselves away from the wall. Trust yourself that a full extension will get you to the hold. The full extension will provide the required energy needed to get you to the hold
In reply to: At this point, working on dynos is not going to help your climbing
Another good point. If you're new to climbing, dynos will only detract from your development. Concentrate on static movements and develop good climbing technique
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bkenney
Nov 10, 2004, 7:24 PM
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I can do the moves statically, but thats not the problem (as in the bouldering problem I am faced with). I have been told that I have really good upper body strength, and body control. This move seems to elude me though.
Thanks for all the great replys thus far.
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angelaa
Nov 10, 2004, 7:44 PM
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I actually try NOT to dyno. . .
In the winter, when I am forced into the gym. . and everyone is working on a route. They know if it includes a dyno, I will figure out a way to do it without one. Sure it takes me a little longer to figure out, but I think it is more rewarding. . . but then again that is just me . . . maybe I think that because I totaly suck at dynos. . .
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bkenney
Nov 10, 2004, 7:45 PM
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I can do the moves statically, but thats not the problem (as in the bouldering problem I am faced with). I have been told that I have really good upper body strength, and body control. This move seems to elude me though.
Thanks for all the great replys thus far.
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bkenney
Nov 10, 2004, 7:46 PM
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I can do the moves statically, but thats not the problem (as in the bouldering problem I am faced with). I have been told that I have really good upper body strength, and body control. This move seems to elude me though.
Thanks for all the great replys thus far.
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drfelatio
Nov 10, 2004, 8:21 PM
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Like others have said, dynos are mostly in the legs and feet. Your arms are used to pull your hip and chest into the wall. Once that happens explode with your legs, but don't let go with your hands until your arms are fully extended. You will transition from a pulling motion with your hands to a pushing one and this will give you a bit more height.
As for the people that like to bounce around on the holds a couple of times for "practice" and then go for it I would suggest otherwise. This just eats up energy and really isn't going to help much. You're much better off hanging on straight arms, FOCUSING on the end hold (NEVER take your eye off of it), concentrate on the move you need to make and just do it. The more time you spend thinking about it the less energy you will have at your disposal, and more doubt and fear will enter your mind. Any negative thoughts and you're screwed. When you jump, focus on that end hold and try to hit it at your deadpoint--the point where you reach max height and for a minute instant, are weightless--and STICK IT! This is where my biggest problem lies. I'll get the height I need but my hand just slips off or my grip is wrong or something.
As for the people that say dynoing won't help your climbing I have to say yes and no. While it is true you should focus your efforts on static technique, balance, footwork, etc. , the notion that dynamic moves aren't an important part of climbing is ridiculous. Remember, dynos aren't just moves where you jump off the wall and catch a hold above you. No, dynos are ANY move with which you use your body's momentum to get you from one hold to another.
Keep trying. You'll stick it eventually. I love doing dynos. They are fun to watch and perform and when you stick one that's been givin you problems it feels great.
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pomattic
Nov 10, 2004, 8:46 PM
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im new to this myself but ive enjoyed playin with dynos a bit so i got a couple word that might help. dyno- dynamic movement remember that... momentum is a big thing... what i find help full is without relesing trace that path i want my body to follow... pretend your gonna attempt it but first just swng in the directionyou want to jump in most cases up. So you would go up and down, up and down. Consentrate that your using your feet to push you up and down... then you put that together in one huge dynamic motion... link everything together push with your feet as much as possible do not relly on your hands.. then keeping your eys on the hold grab it and make sure you stick it at contact no switching round with hands ... then cause you were fully using momentum make sure you stop your self frm swinging as fast as possible i have problems mainly wiht this last bit)... other then that just work on it a lot... practise...
hop its not the blind leading the blind here but hats what i found beneficial to me .. knowing esactly waht you want to do...
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dynoguy
Nov 10, 2004, 10:02 PM
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dynos are really mental, you have to go all out and hold nothing back. You can't think about not making it.
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bensnyder
Nov 10, 2004, 10:34 PM
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I havn't really ran into too many routes/blocs that have moves you absolutely need to dyno...you would be suprised what you can reach statically. I would bet if you concentrate on static movement and controlling your moves well (you said you have good upper body stregnth/power and balance, so this shouldnt be hard), you will be able to dyno much better, and you may even find that static movement is preferable. If you really want to do your dynos though, use your arms as pivots controlling the motion of your body and power the lunge with your legs. I push with my legs, grab the target hold with one arm, and push off the starting hold with the other - I'm not sure if this is what everybody else does, but I think it's better to try to grab with one hand instead of letting go with two (catching the hold with one works best for me). Another note: If your arms are bent, you're doing it wrong - dynoing is not jumping off a hold like you jump off the ground. Anyways, good luck with your moves, be they dynamic or not - climb on!
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yazey
Nov 10, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Too dyno, or not to dyno?
Ultimately the ability to dyno, and the need to dyno on real rock situations is a rare occurance. But, to learn and know how to dyno is, in the end, a neccerey climbing technique. Like first aid, you may never need to use your training, but it is essential for any climber worth their salt to know how, and when to explode from solid jugs, across a blank slab to the smallest crimpy, crimp. And stick it!
Start small, and controlled.
Grab two holds about head high, and about the same height to each other. Bring your feet up next. Find placements about waist high for them. With your knees bent, and arms fully extended, shift your weight low, as low as possible. Spot up, locate a hold that will be at the limit of your longest stretch upward. Size it up, stare at it. Don't take your eyes from the hold. Now with one motion, and as statically as possible, push from your legs, and pull with your arms.
Stretch up, and extend with your legs, and at the last moment grab for the hold with one arm.
Stay static, and stick it. Control it. Don't dyno. The object is to get your muscles used to the movement. Work on this technique using both hands, and gradually you will begin to grow confindence in your stick. Master this, and dynos will be a natural progression. You will be sticking dynos in no time.
But if you ask anyone. Seeing somebody stick a move statically and strong as opposed to flying through it, just has more style points.
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bensnyder
Nov 10, 2004, 11:08 PM
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In reply to: train, campusing will help with this a lot...but yeah, campusing will help strengthen your arms for this...
I'm not so sure campusing will help because dyno power is mostly legs - the only thing campus board training will help in regard to dynos is contact stregnth. If you are new to climbing though, it is generally considered bad to train on a campus board because the risks of tendon injury are very high; even seasoned climbers hurt themselvse on campus board. If you are completely confident in your stregnth and you can be honest with yourself about when it's time to stop, then why not give it a try (under the supervision of somebody that knows exactly what they're doing)? I started campus board training as a noob; I haven't hurt myself and I'v become noticeably better at bouldering. Keep in mind that to train like this is your decision and by doing it you assume the risk of hurting yourself severly...
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microbarn
Nov 11, 2004, 12:53 AM
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This isn't a solution for everyone, but it might need to be said:
Don't be a PANSY!
I have 2 friends who can't dyno at all. The only reason they can't dyno is because they are afraid to actually go for it. They actually get a NEGATIVE distance when they jump!
If you are doing a dyno, then that is a do or die move. If you don't make it, you are going to fall. You already admit that you can't make it conservatively or it wouldn't be a dyno. Don't EVER think you can half @$$ an effort in an attempt to save yourself an embarassing fall. You will never make any dyno and you will look like the pansy that you are.
Most likely, the other people's advice in this thread will be more helpful, but some people need to hear the above statement.
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joshb0ys
Nov 11, 2004, 1:37 AM
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Okay, to introduce a touch of physics into the equation; I have found that my "dyno technique" vastly improved after understanding a high school physics lesson. When an object is thrown in to the air (in this case your body) at the apex of its movement the positive acceleration from the jump will match the acceleration due to gravity. This is the point where it is most desirable to grab the hold, and then you are able to slowly (over the course of a few milliseconds) weight the hold. If you grab too early you end up being required to hold your own weight, plus the weight of your negative acceleration due to gravity, if you grab to late, you simply miss the hold. This is actually that most climbers will figure out naturally after experimenting with dynamic movement and even some static movements. The most important thing though is definitely attitude, without commitment all the physics in the world will not get you off the face.
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drfelatio
Nov 11, 2004, 5:00 AM
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In reply to: This is actually that most climbers will figure out naturally after experimenting with dynamic movement and even some static movements.
How do deadpoints factor into static movements?
I think this just once again reflects people's misunderstanding of what a dynamic move is. While all moves that require you to leap off the wall are dynos, not all dynos require you to leap off the wall. Any move that utilizes the body's momentum is considered a dynamic move regardless if you completely separate your body from the wall or not.
Your point is very valid though and is hopefully very insightful for beginners. A lot of people just try to jump and catch the hold and they invariably fail. There actually is a technique and catching the deadpoint is a critical component of that technique.
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valeberga
Nov 11, 2004, 7:05 AM
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I hear all this bla bla bla "it's all in your legs"... yeah that's fine and good if you're holding onto a jug and have footholds, but we all know setters love to give you dynos from slopers with no feet... :? :roll: :lol:
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bensnyder
Nov 11, 2004, 8:07 PM
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Well, then thats not a normal dyno! If your feet have cut, then its a campused dyno (which does require upper body stregnth and power). When you're dynoing off a smear with crappy hand holds, you still do it the same as a normal dyno - the only diffrence is it takes a bit more grip stregnth.
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katanaman
Nov 17, 2004, 8:40 PM
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high feet and solid foot holds (if available) throw and hope:)
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scubasnyder
Nov 17, 2004, 9:06 PM
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use your feet for most of ur power and practice a lot on easy dynos or make up ur own in the gym for good holds.
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