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pv_climber
Nov 24, 2004, 6:53 PM
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Well, I'm pretty new to the climbing and have only been to the gyms. I have a few good friends that have been climbing for a few years now and have already gotten advice from them, but I wanted to hear what everyone thought about my question. What shoes should a newbie get? I know you want to try on a bunch of different pairs and find out what is most comfortable, but one big problem is I don't really have a broad selection of shoes to try. The gym that is closest (1 hour away) only carries evolve shoes for sale (unless you special order) and they haven't had any in my size. So, what's a newbie to do?
thanks
pv_climber
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gamehendge
Nov 24, 2004, 7:08 PM
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Just order the Evolve Kaos or Defy's. Good shoes. Skip all the extra stuff.
www.evolvesports.com
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symbiosissol
Nov 24, 2004, 7:11 PM
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In my opinon, I'd recomend La Spotiva Mythos. Great all around shoe, lace-up, and nice rubber. These should be able to carry you well from top-rope to bouldering. Lace-ups are great for a shoe you will be wearing for an extended period of time, my velcos are easier to put on, but I can only wear them for 30 min or so before my toes become numb (these are my bouldering shoes and I have sized them small). The rubber, as with all Sportiva's isnt the stickest, but it was last you a good bit of time versus 5.10's C4 rubber. Its has a fairly narrow cut, so if you have wide feet, this might not be the best shoe for you. This was my first pair, I still have a set for when my bouldering shoes get too painful. I wear a size 11ish (US) street shoe and a size EURO 43 in my Mythos, I hope that helps in sizing them. Overall, I think you will be happy with the combination of comfort and performance.
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theothermeat
Nov 24, 2004, 7:26 PM
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I have a pair of Spires - http://www.fiveten.com/product/11.htm which were recommended by a couple of my more experienced friends and I like them a lot. Definitely go with a lace-up shoe for your first pair. I would be hesitant to buy shoes online only because they need to fit snugly, but not too snug. They will stretch once you wear them a bit, but if you can't stand the pain cuz they're so snug...well, you get the idea. But if you don't have any other options in your area do what ya gotta do.
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esljunkie34
Nov 24, 2004, 7:48 PM
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mad rock flash. pure and simple. cheap, decent all-around shoe. lasts a good couple months too, before suffering some wear. great beginner shoe
cuz it's CHEAP!!
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davidji
Nov 24, 2004, 7:54 PM
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In reply to: What shoes should a newbie get? I know you want to try on a bunch of different pairs and find out what is most comfortable,
For your first pair, I suggest shoes designed to fit with your toes straight rather than curled (you can always buy the other kind later), with a snug fit (no gaps between your toes and the edge of the shoe), and not painful. You may want shoes with a painful fit later, but it doesn't make sense for a first pair.
It can be tricky getting a snug fit without pain. If the closest shop doesn't have anything that works, you may need to search farther.
Some people say beginners should start in a stiff shoe, some in a less stiff, more sensitive shoe. As I said before, I think fit is far more important. A stiff shoe might be preferred if you were planning to start off following someone up long (most of the day) outdoor climbs. Else IMO a less stiff shoe is better, and will help you develop your footwork.
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davidji
Nov 24, 2004, 8:03 PM
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In reply to: They will stretch once you wear them a bit,
Unlined leather shoes will stretch a little to conform to your feet. Lined leather ones won't, so if those don't have a perfect fit in the store skip 'em. Also lined leather shoes tend to cost more, and smell much worse (like wearing the same socks every day).
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pv_climber
Nov 24, 2004, 8:05 PM
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Thanks to everyone so far. I pole vaulted (still do) for about 11 years and the climbing community is so much like the vault community. Everyone is so nice and helpful. There is so much respect no matter at what level. Thank you all.
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perozee
Nov 29, 2004, 11:22 AM
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5.10 newtons. Expensive but a good shoe for beginner and intermediate. Excellent support.
Boreal Diablo: Inexpensive beginner shoe. Good support. Expect the toe rubber to wear out after a year of frequent usage.
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overlord
Nov 29, 2004, 1:48 PM
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i really wish youd do a search. or do you honestly believe youre the only newbie that needs shoes here???
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khenderson
Nov 30, 2004, 7:05 AM
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my first pair of shoes was sportiva cliff and i thought they were great shoes for me when i first started. lace up, pretty stiff...like symbiosissol said, sportiva's aren't the stickiest, but they've been a great all-around shoe for me.
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beanricecheese
Nov 30, 2004, 9:47 AM
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Get some sport tape and tape up your feet nice and tight... the best newbie shoes and the cost is cheap.
If you won't real advice then just find a pair that fits ya good. You can also throw in the way the shoes get nice and tight. I hate ones with shoelaces... I use well impressed with Sportiva Cobras that were slip ons and the Sportiva (Mantra??) that are velcro... fuck shoelaces... pain in the ass.
-James
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ritzvin
Dec 9, 2004, 6:50 PM
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as a women's size 5 w/ foot problems and hard to fit arches, my advice (as with any shoes) is this: buy several different models in several different sizes preferably from a store with free return shipping (then just return all the ones that aren't the best fit). as far as I know, there is no local store in my area that sells climbing shoes at all, and I guarantee there won't be any in my size even if there were (as with hiking sandals, most hiking boots, anything w/ arch support, etc).
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wearyourtruth
Dec 11, 2004, 10:56 PM
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In reply to: mad rock flash. pure and simple. cheap, decent all-around shoe. lasts a good couple months too, before suffering some wear. great beginner shoe cuz it's CHEAP!!
my thoughts exactly. we have a lot of newbie's at our gym in the flashes and they all love them.
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grimpiperx
Dec 11, 2004, 11:40 PM
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I have had the MadRock Flash and Phoenix and to get the best out of the flashes I think you would have to size them kind of tight. Because of this I would suggest the Phoenix which are much more comfortable, just size them so your toes are just touching the end of the shoe. Also they seem to smell better than most 5-10 shoes, and I know they smell better than Mythos. Unless you weigh alot they do not wear that fast even with messy footwork. Also you can find them anywhere.
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fstep
Dec 12, 2004, 12:51 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2003
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In reply to: mad rock flash. pure and simple. cheap, decent all-around shoe. lasts a good couple months too, before suffering some wear. great beginner shoe cuz it's CHEAP!!
i don't think that i would recomend the mad rocks... although they are really cool shoes and have a hard core heal for hooking they wear down very fast and a n00bie would need a new pair after a couple of months.
For your first pair i would chose a good all around sorta shoe. Like the 5.10 spire.
http://images.mec.ca/...Climbing/4013059.jpg
Depending how small you get them you might consider slip on's/velcro. If they aren't gonna be tight and you'll have them on all the time what ever. But if you have to put them on and off all the time its sorta a bitch to keep tieing them.
my fisrt pair were the boreal diablo's :)
I donno if you want to order over the net if its your first pair either. The sizing might be hard to figure out. eg I'm a size 12 regular shoe size and my La Sportiva Katana's are 9.5 and my La Sportiva Venoms are a 9.
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