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sailingwinchwench
Dec 3, 2004, 3:20 AM
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Hello there,
I'm new at this but I'd love to know what are the top 10 most difficult climbs in the world and in the U.S & why?
happy climbing!
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strangeday
Dec 3, 2004, 3:28 AM
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The hardest one, is the route you can't get up. :roll:
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addiroids
Dec 3, 2004, 3:55 AM
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I would guess something in Patagonia would have to be in there huh? Maybe something in the Fisher Towers too. Why? Because you can fvcking die even if you are doing everything right!!!
All those above look to be short sport climbs.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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polarwid
Dec 3, 2004, 4:59 AM
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polarwid moved this thread from Competition Climbing to Climbing History & Trivia.
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apieceinbozeman
Dec 3, 2004, 6:14 AM
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Despite what modern climbing rags may attempt to convey, 5.15 is certainly not the most difficult rating. Sure, it's fuckin' hard, but it's all relative- consider my intoxicated FA of the Elevator Crack in southwest Montana back in the '60s- that's some hard shit, man! I'd love to see someone attempt to repeat that thing in a similar style of the first ascent! Try protecting that perfect crack with some 2x4's and empty beer bottles- not happenin' in the modern day, pal!
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tradman
Dec 3, 2004, 10:38 AM
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I think the point of these ratings is simple:
Only one person has ever climbed Akira, although plenty have tried.
I'm sure plenty of people have climbed the Elevator Crack in southwest Montana.
Technical gradings are not about danger, they're about difficulty.
:roll:
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fugaz
Dec 3, 2004, 11:30 AM
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i dont think all the hardest routes are short sport climbs...
look at Ramonets "la rambla 9a+" (confirmed) 40 meters! and Bernabes "Chilam Balam 9b+" 84 meters!!! (only bernabe confirms linking this huge wawe of rock!) http://www.climbing.com/news/chilam/ these routes are in north and south spain.
keep on moving*
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boulderinemt
Dec 3, 2004, 12:06 PM
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k2 is the hardest mountain at the second highest altitude in the world. i know that because the movie told me so :shock: ya notice how much more k2 stuff has come out since then :lol:
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icarus_burned
Dec 3, 2004, 1:22 PM
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technically wouldnt the ten hardest climbs in the world be ones which nobody has ever climbed? as soon as someone gets to the top/end of a route its climbable and no longer in even the top 100 hardest climbs in the world
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mattdog
Dec 3, 2004, 2:01 PM
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Climbing in bed with your wife after forgetting your anniversary has got to be like 5.16 or something. There's no way you can protect that crack, and the jugs are useless. 8^)
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iltripp
Dec 3, 2004, 2:02 PM
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In reply to: i dont think all the hardest routes are short sport climbs... look at Ramonets "la rambla 9a+" (confirmed) 40 meters! and Bernabes "Chilam Balam 9b+" 84 meters!!! (only bernabe confirms linking this huge wawe of rock!) http://www.climbing.com/news/chilam/ these routes are in north and south spain. keep on moving*
I think Bernabe is full of it.
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fracture
Dec 3, 2004, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: I would guess something in Patagonia would have to be in there huh? Maybe something in the Fisher Towers too. Why? Because you can fvcking die even if you are doing everything right!!!
Nice. Sounds like a test of luck, not a test of skill.
:roll:
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akicebum
Dec 9, 2004, 7:01 AM
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There are so many levels of difficulty that can be considered. But here are what I think of as a proud ten:
The Nose Free
G4 the shining wall
K2 Magic Line
Jannu
Everest Kangshung face
Denali Light Traveller
Wheel of Life
M16
Lohtse South Face
Nuptse South Pillar
Many critics would like to point out that the majority of these climbs are at altitude and that is the major crux. This is true and it is what makes these problems so difficult. Unlike problems like Realization, Akira, Flat Mountain, Chilam Billam, Flex Luthor and the rest of the 15's these are only climbable for very short windows and few would dare to venture onto the alpine routes I have mentioned. Furthure more these routes require absolute mastery of skill and conditioning as well as a complete understanding of self ability and mortality.
I included the Nose because it may have more history than any other rock route in North America. It had been stared at in wonder centuries before anyone even considered climbing it. Harding beat it into submission and it is now considered a simple route to aid, people do it in under three hours. But, despite attempts by for several decades by the best free climbers on earth, a 5ft woman has been the only person to climb the route as it was meant to be climbed. She found something in that route that no one else has been able to see. The Hubers, Caldwell, Hirayama, Burke, none have accomplished what she found.
I chose a boulder problem because boudlering is where the hardest rock moves can be found and whether it is problem by Nicole, Loskot, Sharma, Zangrel, Koyamada, or Graham the problem is all that matters. Wheel of life is a testament to the power, endurance, and above all art of climbing and movement over stone.
As far as "the top ten," who knows and who really cares. There are hundreds of incredible problems out there. Their ascents are legendary and inspiring. Ascents like the Shining Wall baffle my perception of what is real and ultimately possible when a dream, or nightmare, is realized. It is this perfection that I find in my own climbing that keeps me awake the night before the first ice of the season or before a big trip. It is what lets me sleep soundly in base camp, or in the back of a freezing truck. I hope you enjoy your climbing and that my post helped you with your question.
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kalcario
Dec 9, 2004, 7:54 AM
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*the Nose because it may have more history than any other rock route in North America. It had been stared at in wonder centuries before anyone even considered climbing it. Harding beat it into submission and it is now considered a simple route to aid, people do it in under three hours. But, despite attempts by for several decades by the best free climbers on earth, a 5ft woman has been the only person to climb the route as it was meant to be climbed.*
Chiseled traverse, pin scars and all, eh?
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akicebum
Dec 9, 2004, 5:00 PM
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Yeah was it Jardine that did the chiseling? Besides when was the last time you or ANY OTHER PERSON free climbed the nose. It is a blemish to be sure, and the flared out pin scars tend to make for easier jamming, but it still has never been repeated.
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grimpiperx
Dec 9, 2004, 5:17 PM
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In reply to: I think Bernabe is full of it.
Why? I believe that Bernabe is no where close to being the one of the top climbers. But he worked the route for 3 years straight, like nothing else. Its 84 meters of overhanging rock. The man is definetly strong and if it took him that long it cant be easy. Also anyone has yet to send it.....
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bishopclimber
Dec 10, 2004, 11:49 PM
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In reply to: Chiseled traverse, pin scars and all, eh?
Joe,
you've never freed it.
stick to your sport climbs.
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rockclimber23
Dec 11, 2004, 12:23 AM
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In reply to: Climbing in bed with your wife after forgetting your anniversary has got to be like 5.16 or something. There's no way you can protect that crack, and the jugs are useless. 8^)
This gets my vote! But seriously, anything that hasn't been climbed yet but attemped many many times are the ones that will be at the top of this list.
Cheers,
Tim
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powderhound
Dec 11, 2004, 12:57 AM
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In reply to: Despite what modern climbing rags may attempt to convey, 5.15 is certainly not the most difficult rating. Sure, it's f---' hard, but it's all relative- consider my intoxicated FA of the Elevator Crack in southwest Montana back in the '60s- that's some hard s---, man! I'd love to see someone attempt to repeat that thing in a similar style of the first ascent! Try protecting that perfect crack with some 2x4's and empty beer bottles- not happenin' in the modern day, pal!
this man is way to hardcore for everyone else on this website. I have seen that thing when I am pulling down hard on the stardard route on the tower maybe one day I can be as much of a hard man as apieceinbozeman.
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darkstar
Dec 22, 2004, 1:35 PM
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anyone who thinks bernabe is full of it only need to go to archindonia and prove it by making the second ascent of his route .orujo sp.... julian ramone was there trying unsucessfully to make the second ... bernabe has done all the other routes around the south of spain that are 8c +and above ... no one even wants to consider trying his chilam balam sp. ha hes one hard core climber and the future will only confim that ...he very well respected in spain ....and its known that he deffinatly climbs the 9's
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dynosore
Dec 22, 2004, 3:05 PM
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If we're talking difficulty I think in terms of not just grade, but all factors. Take the NW face of Devil's thumb. People have tried, and failed. Some paid with thier lives. Weather, ice, rockfall, size, remoteness. How anyone can think a single rope length sport climb is in the same league as climbs like this is hard for me to grasp. I'd try (and flail) on a 5.15, but the worst consequence would be a short fall and a slice of humble pie.
Difficult as in I can't make the move or
Difficult as in that icefall is coming towards me and I'm about to be swept thousands of feet to my death. Hmmmm which is tougher?
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darkstar
Dec 22, 2004, 6:21 PM
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thats obviously completly uncomparable ... im a tree surgeon aka tree dog .... dead trees can be really difficult ... thin plate ice can be difficult .... several subjects of difficulty .... i just cannot believe the folks who doubt bernabe ...im mean have they seen the shit he climbs .... or watched another 5.15 climber struggle on his 9a route ? time will tell dark
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crotch
Dec 22, 2004, 6:24 PM
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Has the Hummingbird Ridge seen a repeat?
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akicebum
Dec 23, 2004, 6:43 AM
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No the Hummingbird has never had a repeat, and it probably never will. It isn't necesarilly a technically difficult route, it just collapses every couple of day anhilating everything near it. But it definitely is a difficult route because you have to make an unreal commitment just to get on it.
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