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hassan
Jun 6, 2002, 11:21 PM
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I don't know but I started climbing almost one and half years back. Mostly in gym. For example my total outdoor trips are countable on my fingers. But now I suddenly want to go for multi-pitch climbs on big-walls in Yosemite area.
How do you get started on that ? My partner is not willing to take up big-walls given our abilities levels right now. But I am looking for a way to start. How did you guys start your first big-wall. After how many months/years of climbing ? Please give me an idea.
[ This Message was edited by: hassan on 2002-06-06 16:38 ]
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dsafanda
Jun 6, 2002, 11:43 PM
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If you can consistently climb 5.10 trad...you're almost ready! Get some aid climbing under your belt, pick a route and have at it.
If you're calling yourself a 5.10 climber based primarily on gym climbing you probably need some more practice leading cracks. You'll also want to spend some time doing single pitch aid climbs before jumping on a 30 pitch monster. There's no reason you can't start doing that now while you hone your free climbing skills. You obviously need to be very proficient at building anchors, jumaring, etc.
Climb, climb, climb and you'll be ready sooner than you think. There is no exact timeline that anyone can give you in terms of months or years. You'll know when you're ready. More than anything else big walls are a lot of work! You really have to "want it"!
That's my 1cents.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-06-06 16:44 ]
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couloir
Jun 7, 2002, 12:04 AM
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If you head to Yosemite for a wall, before you attempt a wall spend time running up long free routes like royal arches, middle cathedral, and snake dike. Make sure you know what you're getting into before you start.
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maculated
Jun 7, 2002, 12:22 AM
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I think if you're leading 10s in the gyms, that's not enough prep. I can sail up stuff in the gym, but getting out into the real world with sketchy bolt placements in SPORT climbing is different, much less leading trad.
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talons05
Jun 7, 2002, 12:37 AM
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I would suggest you get some multi-pitch climbs under your belt. The best and, in my opinion, only way to get into this is to find a mentor -- someone who you can follow up these long routes.
A.W.
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rickoldskool
Jun 7, 2002, 12:54 AM
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Quote:I don't know but I started climbing almost one and half years back. Mostly in gym. For example my total outdoor trips are countable on my fingers
Whoa, just a friggin second.I don't mean to sound critical, but your NOT ready for bigwalls. Your goal is worthy, and enthusiasm comendable, but your skills and experience lacking. You need to start climbing outside, alot. Learn the trad tricks and techniques, and know them well. A handful of times outside does not prepare you for the level your talking about. Go lead a bunch of 5.8-5.9 climbs single pitch and then multi. Better yet find someone to teach you a lead you up some longer routes. If you think you lead 5.10 now, expect to be leading 5.8 in the valley. I kid you not, it's a different world. Make sure someone with more experience takes you on your first bigwall. Go get 6 months maybe a year of outdoor climbing to really prepare. I know there a scoffers at that advice, but i've been climbing since 1985 and seen too many people put themselves and others at risk because they thought they knew more than they did. Assume you know nothing and seek help, your life depends on it.
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crackaddict
Jun 7, 2002, 5:02 AM
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Yeah rickoldskool,
You said it best!
Time to log in hours on trad lead single pitch then multi. If you can count how many times you have been outside. You need some more experience. Cracks of all sizes. Get used to climbing with a free rack all day before you load on an aid rack. Then once you do that. It might be time to start thinking of bigwalls. Once you start thinking of bigwalls it time to start thinking about WORK! All day back breaking work that you are'nt getting paid for. Know what it's all about before you go!
It took me 6 years before I even thought about doing it. But I logged in alot of multipitch and plugged in alot of gear first.
Best thing to learn is gear placement, rope management, organization, planning, route reading, technique, first aid, self rescue, dehydration, the uses of duct tape, wall hauling, wall craping, wall camping, partner finding, and these are just a few things I could think of.
Just keep the vision and work towards it. You'll get there soon enough if you log in some hours first.
Be safe!
Be smart!
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-06-06 22:13 ]
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hassan
Jun 7, 2002, 6:07 PM
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It is a wonderful site/forum. And I am amazed at the variety of geniunely good ideas given here. Everyone ! I really appreciate your comments and agree, to most of you that yes I am not ready yet. And mentor is definitely a key word but unfortunately those readily available are a bit expensive
I will work harder. Thanks for raising my enthusiasm to realistic levels
Although right now I feel stupid to admit it but (what the hell ) I failed to explicitly mention that I have no leading experience. I was talking about my 5.10 top rope (outside). In the gym I can do about 5.11.
Leading a big-wall of course is not in my todo list right now. following it up with someone is actually what I am looking for...parhaps on a regular basis. I am not rich enough to hire a guide each time I want to scale '30 pitch monstor' (as someone rightly quoted ).
So what I should actually look for is 'mentor' of some sort. But in the mean time actually take my first step by hiring a professional guide. !
regards,
Hassan
[ This Message was edited by: hassan on 2002-06-07 11:08 ]
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radd
Jun 8, 2002, 1:44 PM
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Hey, yeah right this second you may not be ready for a big wall, but if you put in some serious time you could be ready sooner than you think. The key is to find an experienced climber(not a guide) to haul you up some routes. Most people are willing to do this, because most likely they were hauled up some climbs many years ago. If you can make it to a major climbing area (yosemite, joshua tree, red rocks ect.) you will find someone to teach you. Just be competent enough to clean gear and anchors. My first summer in Yosemite I was climbing the easy classics (snake dike RA, east butt of mid. cathedral ect) By the next summer I had already bagged an el cap route. I once heard that every good opportunity comes 6 months before you are fully ready. So you see within a year you could be high up (and scared hehe) on some big wall. Good luck and go for it.
[ This Message was edited by: radd on 2002-06-08 06:45 ]
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orestes1724
Jun 8, 2002, 10:54 PM
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i would go outside more first, and learn some basic skills. im no expert on big walls, but if your only leading 5 10 in the gym, be prepared to be leading 5 8 on multi pitchs. get sombody with more experiance and climb outside more. it wont take as long as you think.
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