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kindasleepy
Dec 16, 2004, 12:18 PM
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For general use and training what do you feel is the best angle for a wall and why?
I feel that lower than 45 degrees is useless. Sure you can work your back and grip strength but you are limited to 'ceiling' moves.
10 to 20 degrees allows the use of small technical holds and great for problems.
If you had only one angle, what would it be?
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supersonick
Dec 16, 2004, 12:35 PM
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As always, the answer is "it depends".
I've built a number of walls for friends and I always recommend 50 degrees (steeper than 45). But we have objectives and constraints that might be different than yours. My walls are for training finger strength and core strength, and I feel that a steeper angle is more effective for that training. Setting technical problems is not really an objective, and besides, I personally find powerful steep problems more fun than technical problems.
Another thing to consider is that if you only have a nine foot ceiling to work with, a 50 degree wall will give you 14 feet of climbing surface, whereas a 10 degree wall will give you, well, just about nine feet.
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tradnomad
Dec 16, 2004, 1:52 PM
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In reply to: If you had only one angle, what would it be?
Like supersonick said, it depends on what you want to train (or what you find more fun)...
That said, if you are building a wall, spend the extra time (doesn't cost much more) and make it adjustable... then you don't have to choose.
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overlord
Dec 16, 2004, 3:24 PM
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if you cant make an adjustable angle one, go woth something in 30-45deg off vertical. more than that is pretty useless as is less than that (in a small wal offcourse, if you have enough room, make more angles).
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 17, 2004, 9:08 PM
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I do a lot of granite climbing, so prefer vertical to 20 with small crimpy holds. However someoe who digs metamorphic, igneus, limestone, etc, may want 45. Most I have seen have been 45, and if done right you won't need juggy holds. Or use your garage! every angle!
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tangboy
Dec 18, 2004, 7:46 PM
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well i wouldn't like just plan 0 because if ya fall... ya run the risk of snagging your shnoze on a hold (i have a big nose) so i would probably want something 15-40 (im 6'4" and lacka lot of body tension so i dont like roofs...) but 40 would help build that up some. we have a 3 sided wall at my parents but it sucks for bouldering. built it for toproping back in the day... but now we're like "what were we thinking!" since its only 16' high and 8' wide! bahh oh well check it out... we might drop and redesign so like... on long wall start at 10 degree and going to like 40 degree. so like 12 feet high... about 20 or so feet long. i duno.. who knows!
http://www.angelfire.com/sd2/climber/
check it out!
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tomchaps
Dec 18, 2004, 7:58 PM
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I've made a few home woodies, and personally have found that 30-40 degrees seems best. I like it a little less steep, around 30 degrees, since you can set a range of crimp, sloper, jug, etc. problems. Once you hit 50 degrees, you're working the big muscles more than finger strength. Noone ever climbed on the near-vertical sections of wall--useless for training, since you need to make things tweaky.
It's all fun, though.
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livingtheedge
Dec 18, 2004, 11:19 PM
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35 dergees
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gunksgoer
Dec 18, 2004, 11:40 PM
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my favorite wall angle is like 25-30 degrees, enough to have stong powerfull moves, but allows a variety of holds to be used.
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 19, 2004, 6:08 AM
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In reply to: well i wouldn't like just plan 0 because if ya fall... ya run the risk of snagging your shnoze on a hold (i have a big nose) so i would probably want something 15-40 (im 6'4" and lacka lot of body tension so i dont like roofs...) but 40 would help build that up some. we have a 3 sided wall at my parents but it sucks for bouldering. built it for toproping back in the day... but now we're like "what were we thinking!" since its only 16' high and 8' wide! bahh oh well check it out... we might drop and redesign so like... on long wall start at 10 degree and going to like 40 degree. so like 12 feet high... about 20 or so feet long. i duno.. who knows!
That's a good point, I totally agree. Also be mindful of those $65 slopers that are the size of a basketball. I'm sure anyone that boulders indoors knows how much it sux to smack into one of those.
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