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sesh
Dec 26, 2004, 9:25 AM
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And how does it affect your climbing? What grade do you climb?
I'm just short of 6'1" and I climb 5.8 outdoors, sometimes 5.9 in the gym. My shorter friends sometimes complain that I have an advantage because I can reach more holds.
On the other hand, I always feel that they have better balance, especially when the rock is steeper. On more vertical routes my knees keep banging the rock whenever I try the same moves they can do easily. (Ow!) This could just be a problem with technique, I don't know ...
Anyway, I read somewhere that most of the best-ever climbers were 5'9" or shorter. Is that true?
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tallnik
Dec 26, 2004, 11:28 AM
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I'm 6'5, can lead 5.9, climb up to 5.11, and can reach those holds others have to dyno. That said, once couldn't climb into a chimney my smaller friends could, had to climb the face or climb it like an offwidth. As for balance and all that, I really couldn't tell you if I'm more balanced than someone shorter than me. But I sympathize with the banged knees, although I'm not sure that has much to do with height.
Meh... climb on
Nik
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charley
Dec 26, 2004, 2:12 PM
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I'm not tall. I'm short.
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jammer
Dec 26, 2004, 2:29 PM
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5'10" and climb 5.10 inside and out, boulder up to V3. Technique is the key, not height.
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rmiller
Dec 26, 2004, 2:45 PM
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It is about strength and skill, not height. (or weight for that matter)
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hieronymus
Dec 26, 2004, 2:56 PM
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In reply to: It is about strength and skill, not height. (or weight for that matter)
well said
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happiegrrrl
Dec 26, 2004, 3:13 PM
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I'm 5'4'' and it doesn't affect the grade I climb. And no, I don't believe that's because I'm "average" height. After all, 5 foot 4 inches would be considered short, if I weren't a woman......
The things that affect the way I climb are:
- ability to maintain focus
- abiltiy to address fear
- ability to take risks and commit to success
- faith in my belayer
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pomattic
Dec 26, 2004, 3:13 PM
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I beleive that in certain advatages people hwo are shorter (me. 5'9) have an advntage.. because your shorter you need to work on technique more so you can stretch yourself... therefore once your technique developes your climbing will improve dramaticly! one
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fstep
Dec 26, 2004, 5:09 PM
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6'3" ... hmm i can lead a 5.11 indoors ... i've never really tried harder stuff outdoors.. i've done bits of a 5.10 but never a full one... bouldered V6
but the thing is that some V6 may be not that hard for me but say a V5 may be harder couse it was made by short person and its crimpy and i get too bunched up.
...so more or less these grades hardly mean anything
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wingnut
Dec 26, 2004, 5:28 PM
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? ?1` ut 5'2) but have long arms that give me a 5'4 armspan. I can do 5.11 in the gym and boulder about v3. it's not really about height, it's technique. Up with short people!!!!
____________
I refuse to accept your reality, and substitute my own.
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gunksgoer
Dec 26, 2004, 5:38 PM
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im 5'8"-5'9", i havnt measured myself in a while. ive TR-ed up to 11's outdoors, and lead 10 sport. indoors i boulder pretty hard, its really the only thing i do in the gym. many people can do longer reaches more easily, but i make up for that with my power, technique, and body tension.
i like my height, its seems like a good size so far.
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noface
Dec 26, 2004, 7:17 PM
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5 foot 3 inches. Lead 5.10 outdoor. Boulder at V4. My height makes for some interesting dynos and deadpoints. Short people have a much lower more centered - center of gravity. Notice how most gymnist aren't 6 foot seven giants.
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paige
Dec 26, 2004, 7:20 PM
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Every height has its advantages, it is knowing how to use them that really helps your climbing.
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blouderk2
Dec 26, 2004, 7:35 PM
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Im 6'2. I can climb 5.9 low 10's and can boulder V2. I dont think height has advantages or disadvantages.
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glchromeice
Dec 26, 2004, 7:40 PM
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i'm 5'6 but i got mad long arms so i'm around 5.11-5.12 skill.
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jakedatc
Dec 26, 2004, 7:50 PM
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gym grades are nearly impossible to judge by.. it all depends on the setter, style, and grading... 5.10 at one gym could be 5.8 at another because routes are up for such a short time and i bet most places dont really take a large sample to come up with a conscensus of the grade
get outdoors if you want to compare grade to height, skill, blah blah where there are intermediates and more variables in beta
if some tall person thinks they are a solid V__ climber because they are tall.. put them on a nice crunched sit start and watch them eat their knees
there are pro's and cons for both.. its up to you to figure out how to make it work for your body type
oh ya.. 5'7 .11+ sport outdoors. V4-5 outdoors
lynn hill is 5'1-2 i think Dave graham is like 6' sumtin.. sharma about the same.. beth rodden is real short.. 5'1-4
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clymber
Dec 26, 2004, 8:13 PM
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im about 6'1 sport lead 11b/c but have done some 12s trad is 10b/c boulder V4 and the recent ice realm is at WI4
onle real draw back i have found about being tall is those damn sit starts on boulder problems
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kansasclimber
Dec 26, 2004, 8:20 PM
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Im 6 ft. 4 flash 12's and boulder V9.
Stephen
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j_ung
Dec 26, 2004, 8:30 PM
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Height absolutely affects your climbing, but maybe not in ways you might think. Other-shaped people certainly have advantages and disadvantages based on the types of climbing they encounter. Check out pure crack climbs for the perfect examples; if your hand fits the crack, you're lovin' life, but if it's too small or too big, the rules change for you.
The best short climbers are the ones who maximize their advantages and minimize or eclipse their disadvantages, and the same can be said of the best tall climbers.
I'm 5'6" and I don't try to climb like I'm 6'5".
Weight makes a difference, too. If you don't think so, then here, carry these bags of sand, will ya'? :wink:
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jakedatc
Dec 26, 2004, 8:38 PM
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In reply to: Weight makes a difference, too. If you don't think so, then here, carry these bags of sand, will ya'? Wink
hehe i climb with a few folks that are almost twice as heavy as i am.. i get shit about it all the time but hey.. i climb the way i do for my body type and if i can take advantage of situations and moves that others cant do.. ohhhh well
lol this thread turned into a total spray fest.. Dude i flash like V12 cuz im 8'7 and can reach the top in one move :lol:
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 26, 2004, 9:10 PM
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I'm 6'3" and I certainly haven't reached the theoretical limit of my abilities because of my height. True, some of my shorter, lighter-framed friends progressed through the grades a little quicker in the gym, but whatever. I was learning trad, so while I maybe couldn't crimp as hard as my pebble wrestling friends, I learned to jam and smear. Once we brought a .13 climbing friend of ours to J-Tree and put him on a runout slab 5'9". Oh look! No tiny edges to crimp! :twisted: Put the fear of god back in him right quick.
The only thing that pisses me off is when I do a boulder problem from the thigh-high holds instead of the shin-high holds and people act like I didn't send the problem. STFU. That's why I try to climb mostly big s---.
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chupa
Dec 26, 2004, 9:32 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: lol this thread turned into a total spray fest.. Dude i flash like V12 cuz im 8'7 and can reach the top in one move :lol: :lol: Such petty route-grade spittle is beneath me. I try to keep my spray confined to areas such as penis length/width and IQ. :P
Height:6'9"
Weight:538lbs.
Redpoint:5.10a
Onsight:5.15a
Boulder:V0
Penis length:2"
Penis width:4"
IQ:245
Hair:Grey
Age:15
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robbiehirsch
Dec 26, 2004, 9:32 PM
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I'm 6'3" and lead 5.10 and boulder V3 (done one v6)... In my experience there are certain climbs that are easier for me than my shorter friends but usually it just comes down to technique.
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jakedatc
Dec 26, 2004, 10:08 PM
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In reply to: The only thing that pisses me off is when I do a boulder problem from the thigh-high holds instead of the shin-high holds and people act like I didn't send the problem. STFU. That's why I try to climb mostly big s---.
LOL if the problem starts that low then you are skipping moves.. it would be like pulling on gear on a trad route.. do you count that as a send ?
you(folks in general) can realize that some routes are made for you and others just are putting all the odds against you so you can move onto other things.. ive never been shy to be like this route/problem sucks for me i dont care if i dont send it
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