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sportclmbr20
Jan 4, 2005, 5:40 PM
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I've only lead a couple times, but have never had to clean the route. My boyfriend is the one that usually does it. All I know is you have to clip directly to the anchors and then you're off belay, but what else do you do? Any help would be nice, thanks.
p.s. this is for sport climbing, I haven't tried trad yet.
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edge
Jan 4, 2005, 5:47 PM
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Please don't try to learn this here, on the web. You will most likely even get some good, in depth answers, but this is not the place to learn about cleaning the anchors.
Have someone with lots of experience show you how to do it, and then have them talk you through it a bunch of times until you get it wired. There is little to no room for error.
Good luck.
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eyecannon
Jan 4, 2005, 5:54 PM
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Well, it depends on the anchor setup, but in theory you can just clip the rope into the anchors and get lowered off, and on the way down, remove all the gear. Alternately, you clip yourself directly into the anchors, untie the rope and set up a rappel, and clean the gear. This is generally preferred so you don't wear out the rap anchors with a ton of friction from the rope.
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overlord
Jan 4, 2005, 5:58 PM
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there are two basic ways, bottom-up or top-down.
the first is usually done by the second: as he/she TRs the route, he removes pro.
the second is usually done by the leader as hes/shes lowered or rappels the route.
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markc
Jan 4, 2005, 6:40 PM
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If your boyfriend usually cleans the routes you climb, why haven't you asked him to explain it rather than soliciting advice on an internet forum? Tell him to take it slow and talk you through the process step by step the next time he's cleaning a route. Ask questions if anything is unclear and figure out why he does certain things rather than just what he does.
When what you're trying to learn involves multiple steps of anchoring, untying and retying the rope, removing your anchor, etc, it may best be reserved for face to face instruction.
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dirtineye
Jan 4, 2005, 6:56 PM
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In reply to: I've only lead a couple times, but have never had to clean the route. My boyfriend is the one that usually does it. All I know is you have to clip directly to the anchors and then you're off belay, but what else do you do? Any help would be nice, thanks. p.s. this is for sport climbing, I haven't tried trad yet.
Well, brushes, nut tools, your hands, and in a pinch, soap and water, but where you'd get soap and water even on a sport route, I have no idea.
Seriously, the change over at the top of a sport route is not something you will get right by hearing it on the internet. It's your big chance to deck from the anchors, and you really don't want to do that.
There are several ways to do the change over, some better and safer than others, some more complicated than others, and what you do will also depend on the kind of anchors on the climb (there are several different kinds) and if you have been good and clipped draws to the anchor or if you have been bad and seconded and/or TRed directly off the anchors.
I hope this makes it clear that what you are asking is too complicated, too hard, and too dangerous to answer in a complete and satisfactory manner here.
I'm guessing you want to surprize your BF with some new skills. The best way to do this is to get a qualified person (could involve a guide and money) to teach you.
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el_jerko
Jan 4, 2005, 7:56 PM
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For a two bolt anchor:
1. Climb the route collecting all draws and hanging them from your harness.
2. Upon reaching the anchor attach yourself to the anchor with slings. Idealy you will have two slings with locking biners. You attach one sling to each bolt of the anchor with a locking biner and the other end of the slings to your harness via 2 more lockers or a girth hitch. Less desireable is using two quick draws in place of the slings. Stupid (but you will see it) is using one draw.
3. Pull up some slack in the rope (this is where your boyfriend yells "off belay" but you can stay on bely because your belayer shouldn't be going anywhere anyway) and tie it off to your harness so you don't drop it.
4. Untie your figure eight in the rope, thread the rope through the two bolts of the anchor which you are hanging from, then retie the rope to your harness with a figure eight.
5. Untie the rope (not your figure eight, the knot you used to keep from dropping the rope) from your harness and drop the slack.
6. At this point you are either going to rap, or more likely be lowered by your belayer. Get your belayers attention and request that they put you on belay.
7. Check and recheck that you are properly tied into the rope and that it is properly threaded through the anchor.
8. Call for tension. When your belayer pulls the rope tight, pull up on the slings and have your belayer hold you so you have slack in the slings.
9. Check everything again.
10. When you are satisfied that everything is hunky dory unclip your slings from the bolts and have your belayer lower you.
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angry
Jan 4, 2005, 8:01 PM
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Soap and Water
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jt512
Jan 4, 2005, 8:19 PM
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In reply to: 3. Pull up some slack in the rope (this is where your boyfriend yells "off belay" but you can stay on bely because your belayer shouldn't be going anywhere anyway) and tie it off to your harness so you don't drop it.
Wrong. You should never call "off belay" when you plan to be lowered.
In reply to: 6. At this point you are either going to rap, or more likely be lowered by your belayer. Get your belayers attention and request that they put you on belay.
Wrong, again, because you should have been on belay at all times. The correct command here is "take" (or "tension" for you Canadians out there).
This thread should have been locked on sight.
-Jay
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bubba
Jan 4, 2005, 8:31 PM
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sportclmbr20,
See how easy it is to get bad info from the web?
Please take a course, or find a mentor. Someone has to show you first hand to ensure that you will develop safe climbing habits.
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ricardol
Jan 4, 2005, 9:09 PM
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i'd like to second the "soap and water" comment ..
ideally though you'd use some sort of biodegradable soap ..
-- ricardo
how to clean a route..
1 - climb after the leader has finished leading
2 - remove all gear from the rock
?? -- did i miss something?
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edge
Jan 4, 2005, 9:28 PM
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In reply to: ?? -- did i miss something?
Yes. I believe she is talking about cleaning the anchors on a sport route.
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gunksgoer
Jan 4, 2005, 9:30 PM
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well if your boyfriend normally cleans routes for you, you should ask him to teach your how to do it, in person. thats much better then trying to learn from a few internet posts and possibly getting killed.
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el_jerko
Jan 4, 2005, 11:10 PM
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JT5.3,
"Wrong. You should never call "off belay" when you plan to be lowered."
Dude, learn to read before you spray, you are repeating what I said while accusing me of not knowing what I am talking about.
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phatcat
Jan 4, 2005, 11:25 PM
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In reply to: locked on sight.
what excatly is a "locked onsight" is that when you onsight a route on top rope, and clean it, or is that when you onsight a route, but you cant clean the anchor because the slings are attached to the bolts with padlocks???
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dirtineye
Jan 4, 2005, 11:35 PM
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In reply to: i'd like to second the "soap and water" comment .. ideally though you'd use some sort of biodegradable soap .. -- ricardo
Actually, Fshytehead seconded it and you thirded it. :P
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jt512
Jan 4, 2005, 11:48 PM
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In reply to: JT5.3, "Wrong. You should never call "off belay" when you plan to be lowered." Dude, learn to read before you spray, you are repeating what I said while accusing me of not knowing what I am talking about.
There is nothing wrong with my reading comprehension, I assure you. You, on the other hand, are either giving dangerous advice or are such a poor writer that you appear to be giving dangerous advice. Either one should disqualify you from giving safety-related advice.
-Jay
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jt512
Jan 4, 2005, 11:50 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: locked on sight. what excatly is a "locked onsight" is that when you onsight a route on top rope, and clean it, or is that when you onsight a route, but you cant clean the anchor because the slings are attached to the bolts with padlocks???
It's where a moderator nips a death thread in the bud. And, yeah, I got your joke.
-Jay
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oldskool
Jan 4, 2005, 11:50 PM
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i generally get to the chains, put my pinky thru the hanger, then use my left hand to untie. then i yell, take, and lean back
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jt512
Jan 4, 2005, 11:51 PM
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In reply to: i generally get to the chains, put my pinky thru the hanger, then use my left hand to untie. then i yell, take, and lean back
'Shrooms, eh?
-Jay
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oldskool
Jan 4, 2005, 11:52 PM
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haha jay, haha!! that dood called you jt5.3, oooh you feel dumb!!
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jt512
Jan 4, 2005, 11:53 PM
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In reply to: haha jay, haha!! that dood called you jt5.3, oooh you feel dumb!!
Yeah. I've been schooled, for sure.
-Jay
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oldskool
Jan 4, 2005, 11:54 PM
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i have been tradding it up in jtree big time, whatchu up too oldman?
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jt512
Jan 5, 2005, 12:00 AM
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In reply to: i have been tradding it up in jtree big time, whatchu up too oldman?
Well, some of us, being slow learners, are back in school. Other than that, Hanger 18, when the temps in there are actually above the freezing level; Louie's Quarry or Echo Cliffs, when it's not raining; and some Tucson sport climbing.
What the heck are you doing at J Tree? Trying to build up your calves?
-Jay
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oldskool
Jan 5, 2005, 12:10 AM
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check your pm's....how is that quarrystuff, i hear lots of chipping and gluing?
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How do you clean a route?
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