|
obe
Jan 6, 2005, 3:36 AM
Post #1 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2005
Posts: 191
|
I have had a pair of madrocks before. I liked them but they wore out very quickly(4 months). At the gym I have heard a lot of different thing about them..........Feelings about madrocks anyone?
|
|
|
|
|
melodicllama
Jan 6, 2005, 3:45 AM
Post #2 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 239
|
ive had phoenixes and locos, and my next pair will probably be flashes. MRs in general have great bang for your buck. they dont have the MOST durable rubber, but they shouldnt wear out that fast. it could be your footwork; my first pair of shoes has a hole a mile wide from dragging my toe.
|
|
|
|
|
harrisha
Jan 6, 2005, 3:51 AM
Post #3 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 314
|
Well according to the Chris Cole article in Climbing the guy who started Madrock used to work for 5.10 and stole trade secrets. He then opened up shop in China under the name Madrock. The rubber they use is a little different from 5.10's being that its softer-thus the quicker wearout time. I know Madrock's shoes are cheap, but Stealth is pretty d$@# good rubber, so suck it up and in this case I'm going to say it, "Buy American." Apparently Cole also has something in the works his daughter wants to call Uber Rubber that's even better than Stealth. Just my 2 cents.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jan 6, 2005, 3:56 AM
Post #4 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: Well according to the Chris Cole article in Climbing the guy who started Madrock used to work for 5.10 and stole trade secrets. He then opened up shop in China under the name Madrock. The rubber they use is a little different from 5.10's being that its softer-thus the quicker wearout time. I know Madrock's shoes are cheap, but Stealth is pretty d$@# good rubber, so suck it up and in this case I'm going to say it, "Buy American." Apparently Cole also has something in the works his daughter wants to call Uber Rubber that's even better than Stealth. Just my 2 cents. In addition to screwing up Charles Cole's name, almost everything else in your post is also wrong. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
naw
Jan 6, 2005, 4:06 AM
Post #5 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2004
Posts: 192
|
yeah stupid
|
|
|
|
|
harrisha
Jan 6, 2005, 4:17 AM
Post #6 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 314
|
In reply to: In reply to: Well according to the Chris Cole article in Climbing the guy who started Madrock used to work for 5.10 and stole trade secrets. He then opened up shop in China under the name Madrock. The rubber they use is a little different from 5.10's being that its softer-thus the quicker wearout time. I know Madrock's shoes are cheap, but Stealth is pretty d$@# good rubber, so suck it up and in this case I'm going to say it, "Buy American." Apparently Cole also has something in the works his daughter wants to call Uber Rubber that's even better than Stealth. Just my 2 cents. In addition to screwing up Charles Cole's name, almost everything else in your post is also wrong. Curt Hey sorry, it's after 11:00 where I am, I'm tired, and may very well have dreamed that up but I'll check myself.
|
|
|
|
|
chalkfree
Jan 6, 2005, 4:22 AM
Post #7 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2004
Posts: 512
|
Personally I dislike the madrock brand, almost in it's entirety. The gym I work at has exclusively Madrocks, and personally I can't think of a shoe i wouldn't rather wear. Except maybe on a fashion basis. The mad rubber starts out much stiffer than stealth or sportiva, stays that way for an inordinate amount of time, and once the rubbers finally starting to get broken in the rest of the shoe is about to be trash. I'm not so hard up for money that I need to have a pair of shoes that are less than optimal for 90% of their life instead of a pair that dies a bit earlier that was useful almost the whole time. But hey I don't like buying shoes that are 10 sizes too small either, so go ahead and shoot at the n00b that likes to be able to walk the five feet to the bottom of the climb in his 5.10's. By the by I love my shoes, 5.10 coyotes and my girl loves her La Sportiva venoms, I like the sportiva rubber a bit more for rock with smaller crystals, but 5.10 is better all around for me.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jan 6, 2005, 4:32 AM
Post #8 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: Personally I dislike the madrock brand, almost in it's entirety. The gym I work at has exclusively Madrocks, and personally I can't think of a shoe i wouldn't rather wear. Except maybe on a fashion basis. The mad rubber starts out much stiffer than stealth or sportiva, stays that way for an inordinate amount of time, and once the rubbers finally starting to get broken in the rest of the shoe is about to be trash. I'm not so hard up for money that I need to have a pair of shoes that are less than optimal for 90% of their life instead of a pair that dies a bit earlier that was useful almost the whole time. Your experience with Madrock shoes is certainly different than mine, although I agree that the uppers are shot by the time the shoes need to be resoled. Actually Madrock rubber is somewhat softer than C4 Stealth and that is why it wears a bit faster. BTW, my experience is primarily with the Phoenix. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
kbanks
Jan 6, 2005, 4:41 AM
Post #9 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 25, 2004
Posts: 36
|
Just got a pair of Flash MadRocks and really like them. The heel cup is really nice and grippy. kbanks
|
|
|
|
|
bamaclimber
Jan 6, 2005, 4:54 AM
Post #10 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 18, 2004
Posts: 14
|
I love my locos. they do wear a lil but they get the job done.
|
|
|
|
|
eyecannon
Jan 6, 2005, 5:02 AM
Post #11 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2004
Posts: 517
|
I love my phoenixes and mine have lasted almost a year now with quite a bit of use. Great for long routes where I want a bit of comfort and they are good for jamming as well.
|
|
|
|
|
naw
Jan 6, 2005, 5:37 AM
Post #12 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2004
Posts: 192
|
I have a pair of the Mugen's; I have a love/hate relationship with them. They're very comfortable, and I do like the fit. I got them because my toes are very long and I can't wear a shoe that has a narrow toe-box; the Mugens fit a lot like the Anasazi Southwest and I didn't want to front all the cash for the Southwests until I was sure I'd like the fit for climbing in. The only real problem I've had is that they've worn down very quickly. Within 4-5 outdoor trips (over the space of about a month) I started wearing a hole in one of the toe rands. Granted, my footwork is nothing to write home about, but I've never worn through the toe on another shoe before. I retired them to only gym climbing and I've been climbing in them a few months since then, climbing in the maybe twice a week at the gym. I have holes in both toes now and multiple holes in one of them. I was thinking about getting them re-soled by Evolve but by now the threading is already wearing out and the shoes are basically looking rough enough that I don't see the point in resoling them. When they wear out I'll just get a pair of Evolve Defy's for gym climbing (I've got a pair of anasazi southwests that I use for outdoor climbing now...the toe rands on them are fine). If I was looking for a cheap pair of shoes for gym climbing or maybe for thrashing on a couple of bouldering trips, I'd get a pair of the Flash's as they seem to be quite popular. If I was looking for a long term investment w/ possible resoling in the future, I'd look elsewhere.
|
|
|
|
|
theishofoz
Jan 6, 2005, 5:48 AM
Post #13 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 217
|
i have had my madrock flash's for about 4 almost 5 months. after climbing on them almost every day for about 3-4+ hours each day only yesterday did the hole appear in the rubber in the toe of my left shoe. it is justa little orange showing thruogh the toe, but it will probably last me for 2 more months
|
|
|
|
|
chalkfree
Jan 6, 2005, 5:51 AM
Post #14 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2004
Posts: 512
|
Curt and I had a bit of a PM conversation about this and decided that it might depend on the temperatures you climb in. If the rock's getting to be above 65 - 70 degrees the madrocks should serve you well, under that the 5.10's might be a better bet.
|
|
|
|
|
jcshaggy
Jan 6, 2005, 7:11 AM
Post #16 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 340
|
Yeah 5.10 is the %#@t Heard a lot of contradictory things about mad rock-some love it and some hate it. I'll rather fork out the cash on quality shoes that i know will perform.
|
|
|
|
|
harrisha
Jan 6, 2005, 10:16 PM
Post #17 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 314
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Well according to the Chris Cole article in Climbing the guy who started Madrock used to work for 5.10 and stole trade secrets. He then opened up shop in China under the name Madrock. The rubber they use is a little different from 5.10's being that its softer-thus the quicker wearout time. I know Madrock's shoes are cheap, but Stealth is pretty d$@# good rubber, so suck it up and in this case I'm going to say it, "Buy American." Apparently Cole also has something in the works his daughter wants to call Uber Rubber that's even better than Stealth. Just my 2 cents. In addition to screwing up Charles Cole's name, almost everything else in your post is also wrong. Curt Hey sorry, it's after 11:00 where I am, I'm tired, and may very well have dreamed that up but I'll check myself. All right Curt, just for you I went and dug out my climbing rag. Take it with a grain of salt if you wish. I realize I typed Chris instead of Charles. But about almost everything else being wrong. December 2004 issue (which by the way got mailed out in like Sept.) of climbing, page 79-80: "Five Ten endured an acrimonious separation when longtime employee Young Chu, a renowned Korean climber who managed the factory that produced Five Ten climbing shoes, quit the company. Shortly after Chu left Five Ten, he opened operations in China and began producing shoes under the name Mad Rock. Neither Cole nor Chu will talk about the contentious split-up, but it was mitigated in court, and rumors of stolen trade secrets and copyright infringement have swirled ever since." You just admitted in your second post the rubber wears faster than Stealth C4. And finally Climbing, December 2004, page 77: "'Our test rubbers are significantly beter than anything in production,' he says. He calls the new rubber FX (though his nine-year-old daughter is pulling for Uber Rubber)." Sorry I couldn't remember the FX part when I wrote my original post. Maybe I should change the "Buy American" to "don't buy Mad Rocks" to better serve my point. I feel that part of starting your own business is finding something unique that you can offer, not working for a company and then opening up shop using patened stuff you picked at your old job. Maybe I'm just behind the times and ethics are that dead. If you can infringe on patents and copyrights then why bother with R&D. Just let someone else shell out the money while you reap the reward. Edited for typos
|
|
|
|
|
duracellbunny
Jan 6, 2005, 10:38 PM
Post #18 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 255
|
:wink: :wink: I love my Mad Rocks Hooker lace. I'll buy them again!!!! :D :D
|
|
|
|
|
one900johnnyk
Jan 6, 2005, 10:49 PM
Post #19 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 2381
|
among other things, i climb in the flashes. i like them, and i have not noticed excessive wear with them, though i usually only can climb once a week.. i'd buy them again but not the dual density variety (mugens and hookers i think?) which seems gimmicky to me....
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Jan 6, 2005, 10:53 PM
Post #20 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
The story I got on the trade secrets thing from Bridwell is that Young Chu used to design the shoes for Cole. He used his own foot to create the shape of the shoes. When they split (the story i got was that Young didn't like the way Cole was running things, and thought that they could make shoe more cheaply) Young Chu understandably kept the practice of using his own foot as a model for his shoes. If this is the case (and I have no reason to believe why it would not be) do you think that Young was in the wrong or do you think that Cole should keep the rights to Young's foot shape? I think that this is a similar case to when Don Henley (sp?) was sued by his old record label for sounding too much like himself. I own 2 pairs of mad rocks, Phoenixes and Hookers, and while at first I had problems with the duel density rubber on the Hookers Madrock has since redesigned and reformulated the rubber and they have been much better and have lasted over a year under moderate use on rock in Tahoe and Yosemite. I would recommend these shoes to anyone.
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Jan 6, 2005, 11:09 PM
Post #21 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
In reply to: Maybe I should change the "Buy American" to "don't buy Mad Rocks" to better serve my point. I feel that part of starting your own business is finding something unique that you can offer, not working for a company and then opening up shop using patened stuff you picked at your old job. Maybe I'm just behind the times and ethics are that dead. If you can infringe on patents and copyrights then why bother with R&D. Just let someone else shell out the money while you reap the reward. Edited for typos Maybe before you write something that slanders somebody you should do at least a little bit of research. That article had a one-sided point of view, that being from the owner of 5.10. Have you tried to find out anything about Young Chu's side? Maybe it wasn't the greedy employee trying to rip off the owner, but a smart, inovative person trying to get fair compensation for his ideas. You should probably know that I'm biased because a good friend of mine works for Madrock. But he's a person I trust, a person who's worked for both 5.10 and Madrock, and a person with nearly uncompareable rock climbing expirience. Now if Jim Bridwell tells me that Madrocks are much better then 5.10's, that's enough for me. And as to the "buy American" thing, here's my point of view. We've fought many wars for capitalism and even overthrew democracies (ie Chile), so I'm going to be a capitalist and buy the best goods for my money.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jan 7, 2005, 12:02 AM
Post #22 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Well according to the Chris Cole article in Climbing the guy who started Madrock used to work for 5.10 and stole trade secrets. He then opened up shop in China under the name Madrock. The rubber they use is a little different from 5.10's being that its softer-thus the quicker wearout time. I know Madrock's shoes are cheap, but Stealth is pretty d$@# good rubber, so suck it up and in this case I'm going to say it, "Buy American." Apparently Cole also has something in the works his daughter wants to call Uber Rubber that's even better than Stealth. Just my 2 cents. In addition to screwing up Charles Cole's name, almost everything else in your post is also wrong. Curt Hey sorry, it's after 11:00 where I am, I'm tired, and may very well have dreamed that up but I'll check myself. All right Curt, just for you I went and dug out my climbing rag. Take it with a grain of salt if you wish. I realize I typed Chris instead of Charles. But about almost everything else being wrong. December 2004 issue (which by the way got mailed out in like Sept.) of climbing, page 79-80: "Five Ten endured an acrimonious separation when longtime employee Young Chu, a renowned Korean climber who managed the factory that produced Five Ten climbing shoes, quit the company. Shortly after Chu left Five Ten, he opened operations in China and began producing shoes under the name Mad Rock. Neither Cole nor Chu will talk about the contentious split-up, but it was mitigated in court, and rumors of stolen trade secrets and copyright infringement have swirled ever since." You just admitted in your second post the rubber wears faster than Stealth C4. And finally Climbing, December 2004, page 77: "'Our test rubbers are significantly beter than anything in production,' he says. He calls the new rubber FX (though his nine-year-old daughter is pulling for Uber Rubber)." Sorry I couldn't remember the FX part when I wrote my original post. Maybe I should change the "Buy American" to "don't buy Mad Rocks" to better serve my point. I feel that part of starting your own business is finding something unique that you can offer, not working for a company and then opening up shop using patened stuff you picked at your old job. Maybe I'm just behind the times and ethics are that dead. If you can infringe on patents and copyrights then why bother with R&D. Just let someone else shell out the money while you reap the reward. Edited for typos The facts are far more in-line with bandidopico's comments....
In reply to: The story I got on the trade secrets thing from Bridwell is that Young Chu used to design the shoes for Cole. He used his own foot to create the shape of the shoes. When they split (the story i got was that Young didn't like the way Cole was running things, and thought that they could make shoe more cheaply) Young Chu understandably kept the practice of using his own foot as a model for his shoes. If this is the case (and I have no reason to believe why it would not be) do you think that Young was in the wrong or do you think that Cole should keep the rights to Young's foot shape? I think that this is a similar case to when Don Henley (sp?) was sued by his old record label for sounding too much like himself. According to a source of mine, Chu came up with many of the innovations in question and offered to sell these to 5.10 for incorporation into their shoes. 5.10 declined to pay Chu for these ideas. Madrock got shoes with these ideas (dual density soles, ribbed heel, etc.) into production sooner--precisely because Chu was further along with the design. Perhaps you shouldn't take such a strong opinion on an issue such as this, without having both sides of the story. Curt
|
|
|
|
|
cloudbreak
Jan 7, 2005, 12:29 AM
Post #23 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 917
|
I like to think of them as the Ugo of climbing shoes. I'm not a big fan of the rubber, nor the quality of the shoe itself, which pretty much makes me not a fan of Madrocks.
|
|
|
|
|
illimaniman
Jan 7, 2005, 12:59 AM
Post #24 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2002
Posts: 128
|
In reply to: I think that this is a similar case to when Don Henley (sp?) was sued by his old record label for sounding too much like himself. It's not really relevant, but for the sake of accuracy, it was John Fogarty that got sued for sounding like CCR. "The Old Man Down the Road" or whatever the song was called, sounded a lot like "Run Through the Jungle," if I remember correctly. The judge tossed the suit out of court. Just thought I'd correct the inaccuracy. Of course, it is entirely possible that Don Henley was sued also, but I wasn't aware of it.
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Jan 7, 2005, 2:34 AM
Post #25 of 32
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
Screw the politics. All I know is that my Mad Rock Hooker Zips were the best shoe I've ever used. They lasted an entire year of hard climbing amounting to about three or four days a week. When I sent them out for a resole, mad rubber wasn't available, so I had Stealth C4 put on. I'll let you know after this summer's season which way I liked it more. ;)
|
|
|
|
|
|