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andrewbanandrew
Jan 27, 2005, 2:53 AM
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I started climbing last October. I do not climb outside for lack of a car (well, and gear...sigh) and I do a lot more bouldering than I do toproping (haven't learned how to lead yet).
Right now I've sort of hit a plateau where I can do most V3s after much work, and most V2s after a couple tries. I think that my gym does not overrate nor underrate (at least on average), but I don't really know (it's the UW gym in the IMA if anyone is wondering).
It seems like whenever I try harder stuff, I end up tweaking something--fingers or forearms--and to be fair I've only tried harder stuff a few times for fear of tweaking them again.
I think the answer is to just diversify (read: climb up more) and let my strength build up gradually, but I'd like to know if everyone sort of hits this bouldering difficulty plateau where they think they're gonna hurt themselves if they try to break through it.
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kobaz
Jan 27, 2005, 3:20 AM
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One of the keys to not injuring yourself is a slow and low intensity warmup. A good way to move past a plateau (and improve in general) is work on endurance, balance, and flexibility.
One of the problems with harder routes is that the holds get worse and the body positioning gets harder. One thing you need to build is the ability to hold onto crappy holds long enough to make the next move, endurance building will help. Since you said that it takes you a few times to do a v2, do some workouts where you climb a v1 over and over until exhaustion, rest a bit, and do it again. Also try traversing your bouldering area until exhaustion.
Stretch *after* you have warmed up to avoid pulling something (stretching, in time will help flexibility).
Its very important to be very warmed up when you go for that v3 with a huge dynamic move to a two finger pocket (otherwise you may tweak something).
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andrewbanandrew
Jan 27, 2005, 4:28 AM
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Okay. I already do warm up using a squishy ball when I walk down to the gym, followed by a 15 minutes on the V0s.
Since I don't have a regular belay partner I think I will traverse more for endurance.
I was also told today by another guy at the gym to just climb down a bunch (e.g. just grab random holds on the way up, then try to climb down using only features on the wall and no holds).
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kobaz
Jan 27, 2005, 5:26 AM
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What gym do you climb at? I've been to quite a few gyms across the country and very few have walls that you can climb on with just features. My gym (Electric City of Schenectady) has an awsome main wall with features over every inch.
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kobaz
Jan 27, 2005, 5:28 AM
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Another key to moving up the grades is footwork footwork footwork.
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bluestar521
Jan 27, 2005, 6:07 AM
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I found core strength was also key to improving, especially on overhanging problems, where you need to keep your feet on, your hips in and your body still. Leg raises, holding pike position and front lever training using a hang board really helped strengthen my abs, back and shoulders. As far as keeping injury free, listen to your body, take breaks between attempts on hard problems and warm up throughly.
-K
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ron_burgandy
Jan 27, 2005, 8:13 AM
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Fellow UW IMA Climber!
I would suggest getting more endurance in, and stretching all of which has been said before, but what I found is a really good workout to help build some endurance strength and avoid over working those tendons is to get on a V0 or a V1 climb it from the bottom really focusing of technique then down climbing the entire route again focusing on technique. Make sure your movements are smooth and slow.
I recently had a finger injury (tendon and pully stress) so I focused on this type of exersise durring recovery after the injury. Also if you do end up hurting yourself make sure to avoid climbing and situations that hurt. Tendons and such take a real long time to heal, if you are lucky enough to get an injury that will heal!
It is best to take preventave measures so you don't have to deal with nursing an injury.
If you are climbing multiple times a week, and climbing hard be aware that you could just be over working your body, try taking more time off in between your climbing days. Also make sure that you are eating well, if you dont eat a lot of protiens it can be hard for your body to stengthen those muscles and tendons that you have been working.
Good Luck and see you out there!
PS Kobaz
The UW IMA has walls that have climable features... thank you Enteprise walls!
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andrewbanandrew
Jan 28, 2005, 6:20 AM
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Urgh when I said 'just using features' I meant 'just using features for my feet'
edit: I also eat a lot more protein nowadays. Gained 7 lbs since October which is quite a feat for me (skinny Chinese boy).
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