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danq99
Jan 28, 2005, 9:01 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the advice. I won't be doing anything without proper instruction first, but I was just doing some reading, and was curious. Thanx
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wanderinfree
Jan 28, 2005, 9:51 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 476
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In reply to: If you don't want to trail the second line you can always have a thin second rope that will fit into a camelback or something. I do this and make my second carry it when rope drag may be an issue.
Course this brings a second problem...having to listen to your second whine their way up a chimney with a pack on. :wink: VIVA LES SECONDES!!!
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barnes33
Jan 28, 2005, 10:05 PM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Dec 15, 2002
Posts: 101
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if montezuma is the one im thinking of, you dont need two ropes if you rappel down the west side onto the boulder. but its difficult to rappel down the spine and go back to the belay station. you dont want to fall and swing out. if you plan to rappel down the east side, then bring a second rope. but its been a few years since i climbed there and i cant exactly remember if i know what im talking about.
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tradkelly
Jan 28, 2005, 11:25 PM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Apr 7, 2003
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For Zuma in particular, the standard rap is down the east face and is just over 30m. A 70m rope is ideal for climbing the route and rapping without futzing around at the mid-way belay station (use some runners and the drag isn't bad at all for 1 long lead pitch, although communication with your second gets interesting). Rapping the route is not preferred - if you slip you go off one side or the other for a long ride, and then you're screwed if you aren't on a 70m - not to mention your ropes will probably be hung up. Other parties frequently climb up right after your second, so know your plan in advance and clear the anchors as quickly as you can. The normal manner to do the rap, without a 70m, is to tie two ropes together with a double fishermans or EDK with the knot placed on one side or the other of the top achor bolts, and to do a double rope rap. Pull the rope from the side with the knot and enjoy untying it on the ground. Capiche?
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wjca
Jan 29, 2005, 4:31 PM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Jan 27, 2005
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cantbuymefriends,
I'm not asking you to educate me, you asshat. I'm asking for the opinions of people who have actually tied together two ropes of different diameters in order to see what has worked for them. I am discerning enough to differentiate crap from good experience.
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kman
Jan 29, 2005, 5:49 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Oct 16, 2001
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In reply to: i may be wrong with this, but i was taught that if your tying two ropes together of significantly diff diameters you shouldnt use a EDK, and that you should use an dbl fishermans. sorry if my previous post didnt make sense to some.
I had to read your last post twice. It does make sense but is hard to sort out because it's one looooong sentence. Trying using periods...it will make it easier to read and understand.
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sava6e
Jan 31, 2005, 4:03 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 214
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eh!! yeah i have problems wiht that sometimes, the whole sentance thing. anywho, hope this whole thread provides good reading to those trying to do a little research ahead of time, so they may have more ?'s to ask their instructor.
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