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vtbrewer
Feb 7, 2005, 9:10 PM
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I’m having a problem staying on when traversing on vertical ice. Is it just me or is this a hard skill to learn. Any advice?
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devkrev
Feb 7, 2005, 9:20 PM
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heyhey
I'm brand new at this whole ice thing too, but what I have noticed helps is ice bouldering, of sorts. I just traverse along the bottom of the cliffs. It seems to help with movement. Someone told me once that it is recommended to not have a spotter though :) But what do I know, like I said, I'm new at this.
later
dev
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discolegsyndrome
Feb 7, 2005, 9:38 PM
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Hey, Traversing on ice can be a beeyotch.. It is not as intuative as a traverse on rock.. that much is for sure..
What I can suggest is that you practice it while not being high off the ground, a la ice bouldering. But some of the resident ice gurus here will be able to give you better advice.
Meanwhile.. here is some reading about techinique from the Grivel site
and I also recomend reading ICE & MIXED CLIMBING: Modern Technique (ISBN: 0-89886-769-X)
Climb on!
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tradmanclimbs
Feb 7, 2005, 9:42 PM
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Just go out and practice. Git er done!!!!!
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euroford
Feb 7, 2005, 9:46 PM
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i've found traversing to be one spot where leashless really shines.
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rendog
Feb 7, 2005, 9:54 PM
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is it your axes or feet that keep blowing off?
try crossing you feet in front of each other, it's a bit awkward at first until you get the hang of it. If it's your axes...I don't know what to tell you...I like to stick one in sideways for a sidepull and then stick one in vertically and re set the axes.
trial and error man that's all i can say
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gunked
Feb 8, 2005, 2:04 AM
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I'm with rendog on this one.
I tend to place my closer axe in a more vertical orientation while placing my far axe (in the direction I'm moving) in a slightly angled (for the direction of pull) orientation, then shift my weight and feet over.
Come to think of it, this is one of many possibilities that pop into my head!!!
Go out and practice while low to the ground! :wink:
-Jason :D
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vtbrewer
Feb 9, 2005, 1:50 AM
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Thanks for the help. I’ll try getting my far axe out at more of an angle. The Gravel site had some info that will give me something different to try also. And I promises to keep practicing.
Now if the weather here in Vermont would just cooperate. It was well into the 40’s the last 3 or 4 day’s. The next few call for rain.
Scott
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tradmanclimbs
Feb 9, 2005, 2:47 AM
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side pulls are the $hit when traversing or going arround a corner. just be CAREFULL in super cold conditions that you don't rail/twist/snap on your pick when cleaning the tool 8^) again just go out and git er done. Vt boozer:) there is killer road cut bouldering in s. royalton. n on rt 10 twords tunbridge.
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timd
Feb 9, 2005, 6:29 AM
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I actually learned a good traverse skill at the last fest. It is a leashless technique however. First get a good stick with your tool (right or left depending on direction). Place other tool on shoulder. Grasp your set tool with both hands and then move your feet until you are centered with your tool or even too the side of it a little bit. Now grab your shouldered tool with your directional hand (once again either right or left depending on direction), repeat.
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crag
Feb 9, 2005, 1:30 PM
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In reply to: I’m having a problem staying on when traversing on vertical ice. Is it just me or is this a hard skill to learn. Any advice?
FYI & YMMV
Starting with both tools about shoulder width apart with the spikes pointing down. If moving to the right re-set the left tool on an angle so that the spike is pointing to the 4 or 5:00 position. Leaving the right tool where it is begin to mover your feet (poons) to the right. Crossing the left foot over can make this process quicker but has its hazards too. After you have moved your body to the right and found a balanced stance, (you should be centered in front of right tool at this point give or take), remove your right tool and find a good placement on an angle with the spike pointing towards the 7 or 8:00 position.
Once confident that the right tool placement is bomber remove the left tool and either draft it into the previous right tool placement or re-set it as before if you still need to traverse. Rinse and repeat as needed. Once you get the basics of the technique dialed in you’ll find that it becomes almost second nature.
Just as with standard French Technique or in this case Piolet Traction (climbing on front points); you never want to move from an unbalanced position. In this case body position and footwork (poonwork) is paramount. Learning to trust your tool placements in regard to the condition of the ice is equally important, an experience learned over time, “git’er done.”
If you’re climbing with leashes you can still use what “timd” described. Obviously it will require coming out of your leashes which may be awkward but it is doable. Just be sure that the one tool placement that you’ll be matching hands on is bomber especially if you’re Bouldering (sans rope).
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adamtd
Feb 14, 2005, 4:07 PM
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Let's say we're traversing form right to left. I start from a stable position, most beginners like the good old X-position. I position my body so that I'm dirctly under my L tool which is perpendicular. I then place my R tool at a forty degree angle as close to it as is comfortable. I then layback off of my R tool, so that my body is out to the left. I remove my L tool and place it above my head or slightly to my left, verticaly. I reposition my feet so I'm stable and my weight is on my L tool and I start the whole process over again. Beginners like ot use the X-position, but teh more comfortable you get on teh ice, you'll find you can be just as stable without it. One of teh biggest break throughs I had in my ice Technique came when I start mixed climbing and found that if I approached climbing ice and mixed routes with more of a rock climbing mentality (balance, precision, weight transfers, and creative moves) it opened up a world of new techniques. I will admit though, traversing ice sucks and I don't recommend trying it while ice bouldering. The bottom of ice routes are rarely flat and falling with crampons on, onto a sloped or uneven surface is an awesome way to break an ankle. set up a top rope and try it there. Don't worry about falling, it's a top rope, you do it all teh time rock climbing I'll bet.
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paulraphael
Feb 14, 2005, 5:09 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
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some tips ...
-moving up diagonally, when you have the choice, is a lot easier than a horizontal traverse
-if you have to go horizontally, resist the urge to plant the tools too far to the side. it's harder to balance after removing a tool, and also much harder to get a good plant. go for a couple of feet to the side, and up at an angle. you'll take more swings, but it will be a lot easier.
-move your feet in small steps, balancing yourself on the sidepull
-after you've moved over a couple of feet, remove the tool that you moved away from , and plant it above you, next to the other tool (but not too close). then remove the first the tool and plant it up and to the side, as you did the first time.
-the more you can hang from straight arms while doing this (dropping to bent knees, twisting your torso, etc, the more strength you'll conserve and the less outward pull you'll put on the picks.
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paulraphael
Feb 14, 2005, 5:09 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
Posts: 670
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some tips ...
-moving up diagonally, when you have the choice, is a lot easier than a horizontal traverse
-if you have to go horizontally, resist the urge to plant the tools too far to the side. it's harder to balance after removing a tool, and also much harder to get a good plant. go for a couple of feet to the side, and up at an angle. you'll take more swings, but it will be a lot easier.
-move your feet in small steps, balancing yourself on the sidepull
-after you've moved over a couple of feet, remove the tool that you moved away from , and plant it above you, next to the other tool (but not too close). then remove the first the tool and plant it up and to the side, as you did the first time.
-the more you can hang from straight arms while doing this (dropping to bent knees, twisting your torso, etc, the more strength you'll conserve and the less outward pull you'll put on the picks.
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