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skidawg
Feb 7, 2005, 9:11 PM
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Some of my buddies and I are planning a trip to Yosemite over spring break. We're sort of new to climbing, and plan to do sport (have the gear, and knowledge though :) ) I'm sure a large amount of you have been there, and I am excited beyond belief (good lord I'm excited...can't handle it :D ). Just wondering what your recommendations would be for routes, and areas since we will only be there for 3 whole days and want to make the best of it we can.
To get there we're bringing cans and bottles to get the 5-10cent cash refund to pay for gas, so go ahead and post any other ideas on how to we might get cash to pay for the trip too if you have any (you guessed it...we're in college).
cheers
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caughtinside
Feb 7, 2005, 9:17 PM
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There is sport climbing in Yosemite, but it tends to be hard, and spread out. I've been told of a couple areas that have higher concentrations of sport climbs in the Valley, but I've never checked 'em out. I go for the long routes!
You might look into doing some TRing around Swan slab and sunnyside bench...
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vegastradguy
Feb 7, 2005, 9:29 PM
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Yosemite isnt exactly known as a sport climbing destination. There is, however, plenty of good bouldering to be had. You may consider changing your destination to someplace else if you plan only sport climbing.
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vincent
Feb 7, 2005, 9:36 PM
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i worked in yosemite for awhile and i think that in order to get the 5 cent cash refund you have to return a can that was bought in the valley. cans and bottles sold in the valley have a little green sticker on them that says "5 cents". i could be wrong here though because now i'm wondering how the recycling center would verify the sticker if the can has been crushed.
Mockery (5.8) is a great bolted route at the 5 and dime area. also check out the Pat and Jack area. Bonehead (10b) is super as well as Knuckleheads (10b) ....
without trad gear or serious cranking skillz ou might want to check out the TRing or the bouldering......
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refugee
Feb 7, 2005, 9:37 PM
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In reply to: so go ahead and post any other ideas on how to we might get cash to pay for the trip too if you have any (you guessed it...we're in college). cheers
do what other trustfund babies do and ask your parents for money
and for bolted routes, check out bachar-yerian in tuolumne
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davidji
Feb 7, 2005, 10:01 PM
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If you want to sport climb in the valley, a search of the web + guidebooks will reveal some routes. There's even a sport climb on the guidebook cover. But I think you'd have more fun elsewhere.
The Tuolumne Meadows (in the Yosemite high country) guidebook actually lists a number of sport climbs in the back, but you won't be going there over spring break, unless you bring skis.
If you want to go sport climbing, you'll have more fun if you stop at Smith Rock, which is way closer to you. There's free, legal camping nearby (if you ask around), and lots of sport climbing. If you want to go to California, you'd have more fun in the Bishop area , and possibly even at Lake Tahoe than you would looking for sport climbing in the valley.
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bandycoot
Feb 7, 2005, 10:55 PM
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In reply to: To get there we're bringing cans and bottles to get the 5-10cent cash refund to pay for gas, so go ahead and post any other ideas on how to we might get cash to pay for the trip too if you have any (you guessed it...we're in college).
Don't buy the cans/bottles to begin with... :roll:
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boltdude
Feb 7, 2005, 11:33 PM
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Not much point going to Yosemite for spring break to sportclimb unless you crank 5.12. And even if you do crank that hard, most of the sport climbing in the Valley is in the shade and will be too cold. Tuolumne won't be open until June.
Also, this is a wet year and it often rains all spring in Yosemite. Keep your plans flexible. Smith Rock and Owens River Gorge are much better destinations for sport climbing.
If you want to visit Yosemite as your primary goal, and climb whatever you can as a secondary goal, you can also check out Supertopo for tons of Yosemite beta.
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guangzhou
Feb 7, 2005, 11:34 PM
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The Amphitheather has sevral good "Sport Routes," but you should consider another location if you are looking for bolted lines.
Red Rocks
Smith
New river
Lake Tahoe
Good luck
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timmy_t
Feb 8, 2005, 12:03 AM
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Quote: "and for bolted routes, check out bachar-yerian in tuolumne." Awsome idea, hehehe, I like your sense of humor refugee!!
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bubbahotep
Feb 8, 2005, 12:07 AM
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In reply to: and for bolted routes, check out bachar-yerian in tuolumne
hehe...
Watch out for that second pitch, it's a doozy!
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nedsurf
Feb 8, 2005, 12:50 AM
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not trying to be a trad nazi but I agree with the others that there are other areas that might be better for sport. pinnacles, j-tree, and I think bishop. you must have a barge of cans 'n' bottles cause isn't petrol something like $2.30/ gal in cali. now?
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maculated
Feb 8, 2005, 12:55 AM
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J Tree is NOT a sport destination, either. In fact, the bolted routes in the Valley are more worthy of a visit than J Tree is to a person with a few draws and a rope.
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iamthewallress
Feb 8, 2005, 1:01 AM
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In reply to: J Tree is NOT a sport destination, either. In fact, the bolted routes in the Valley are more worthy of a visit than J Tree is to a person with a few draws and a rope.
Agreed.
My one sport climbing trip to Joshua Tree ended up become my first outing on (hastily borrowed) gear.
I've never tried to climb sport specifically in Yosemite, but I'd guess that there are roughly 5 sport climbs at 5.10 or less that you would want to climb in late winter/early spring.
Sometimes a topo shows like 6 bolts and it seems like it should be a sport climb...until you realize that it's a 140 foot pitch.
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nostyleclmbr
Feb 8, 2005, 1:10 AM
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I love the valley but you should go to Smith Rock instead. You will be sad in the valley because there will be way to much rock that you want to climb but you will not have the skills to do it. I've done some of the sport climbs there and they are a.) hard to find b.) not incredible c.) run out beyond belief. Go to Smith Rock and clip bolts for a week if you haven't been there you're in for a treat. If you really want to go to the valley bring a boulder pad or try and learn trad over in leavenworth. Good luck.
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