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The secret to making perfect holds
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nosclimber


Jan 5, 2005, 7:59 PM
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The secret to making perfect holds
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Ok, here is the secrete to making perfect slopers out of resin. Use a cheap rubber basket ball. Thats right. Just take a cheap rubber, not leather, basket ball cut it in half, turn it wrong side out and use it for a mold. You can make a huge half round sloper or deform the shape a little to make nasty slopers to great positive holds. The texture is also easy on the skin, and you wont get any sharp jagged edges. There is no need to coat the mold with grease before either because the rubber tears off fairly easy. The best way to make the hole is to drill it after it is dry.
Now the big holds can get a little expensive if you use resin. I actually made a couple half circles out of concrete. the trick to using concrete is to insert a peice hollow tubing or conduit after you pour it. Then you can bolt it tightly with out cracking the mold . this only works on big holds though.
The back of the mold will not always come out perfectly flat. I just bolt it on anyways so i can vary the hold a little if i want to. I have sanded the backs with a belt sander but it is a lot of work.
Another plus is that each mold will always be different and there are literaly hundreds of possibilities. Give it a try and let me know how it worked out.


sawdust


Jan 5, 2005, 8:59 PM
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Damn good idea - kudos to you.
The key to home grown holds is inginuity.


gunkiemike


Jan 5, 2005, 10:14 PM
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Sweet idea! I used to have a kids' basketball that would make a smaller radius sloper.

I once poured some holds inside the upper "shoulder" curve of a soda bottle. The bottle is a bit tough to peel off the resin, but it leaves a glass smooth finish. The resulting holds were 3 to 4 inch dia. circles, like those reflective highway dots. But shiny smooth. So I took a few to work where we had a sand blaster and roughed 'em up. I screwed them to the 80 degree kids slab at the local gym, and we called in an "old school 5.10 route". It was SO insanely balancey and insecure. Most climbers there under the age of 40 tried it a few times and walked away in disgust. I had one pair of shoes that I could climb it in, but the other pair (my slippers) just oozed off.


shortys


Jan 5, 2005, 11:22 PM
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Thanx Im going to try tonight
Just a great idea!!
Thanx again


gerollblocker


Feb 9, 2005, 12:16 AM
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Nice :wink:


labrat0065


Feb 9, 2005, 12:32 AM
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you said using resin...... exactly what kind of resin and where are you geting it, im used to like polyester resin, for making fiberglass to fix stuff on cars, but im not sure if i want to climb on that?


quincy


Feb 9, 2005, 12:32 AM
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About making a good hold, I've heard that carving out a block of styrofoam works pretty good. I haven't tried it, but I assume that it would create a fairly nice texture. By using styrofoam blocks, you can create any shape that you desire.


gunkiemike


Feb 9, 2005, 1:29 AM
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In reply to:
About making a good hold, I've heard that carving out a block of styrofoam works pretty good. I haven't tried it, but I assume that it would create a fairly nice texture. By using styrofoam blocks, you can create any shape that you desire.

I found Styrofoam tough to shape. Use the green (or brown) florists' foam instead. I also suspect that Styofoam (expanded polystyrene) might dissolve in the uncured resin as it contains styrene monomer. The resin I use BTW is polyester resin sold for fiberglass repair in auto and boat shops.


corpse


Feb 9, 2005, 2:31 AM
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You can buy vinyl ester resin (the cheaper auto stuff is polyester resin), although it can be double the normal price, that will not have a chemical reaction with foam - www.fibreglast.com has the resin (I forget which stuff off hand)... I believe vinyl ester.. And it doesn't produce the same noxious nasty smells as normal resin (the fumes are there, should still wear a mask, just not as nasty smellin).


Partner gunksgoer


Feb 9, 2005, 3:23 AM
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the other night at the gym we were talking about something like this, and someone suggested just layin their tits in the resin...we had a smart one on our hands


morganicclimbing


Feb 9, 2005, 5:11 AM
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Be careful with the tit dippin. Most resin cures by exothermic reaction. This means it gets really hot as it cures. :) Good luck with it. Making holds is a lot of fun.

Lance


Partner brent_e


Feb 9, 2005, 5:18 AM
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Does anyone add silica sand to their resin??? I read that this worked well.
Also I've heard of people using clay and indenting holds that you already have in it and then pouring into those.


lucas_timmer


Feb 12, 2005, 12:51 PM
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Maybe if you pour fine sand in the mould, you can get more grip on them.
Just a idea..


bludogxxx


Feb 17, 2005, 3:12 AM
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i use bondo for the actual hold, 12.00 at walmart for a gallon. I use playdough to make the sample, and cover it with silicone caulking for mold. all under 20.00 at walmart. as for grip, i use elmers wood glue and then put sand on top and let dry.


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