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Photos by addiroids

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Wall Gumby

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Wall Gumby

Here is me in my element. Take note of the suspenders. Yeah, I am hard indeed. 15 hrs on route and the best part is it was number 9 out of 9 attempts on walls with my partner Bill. Fun route, eventhough I took a fall at the ow on like the 6th pitch when I couldn't test a piece after the buldge.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-09-30 | Last Modified: 2006-12-31
Views: 2069 | Comments: 3
Forget wall abs, these are Keeler abs

Average Rating = 2.25/5 Forget wall abs, these are Keeler abs

Bill and Paul after 5 days of alpine climbing in the Whitney region. After 4 days we hadn't had our butt kicked, so we did Keeler Needle (about 10 hrs on route). That served up the proper butt kicking. I was cramping by the Red Dihedral (1/2 way on the route). Also, my camera got unscrewed on the crux ow, and fell 100' into Bill's hand. Best Buy exchanged it though!!
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-09-12
Views: 2475 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 3
Bill following Mithral

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Bill following Mithral

Yes, this climb is as beautiful as it looks from the ground. I thought it was going to be sustained pumpy stuff, but really it is just "take your time 5.9". Really, it isn't that hard, and if there IS a 10a section, it is at the top of the dihedral, and only lasts for like 2 moves. Beautiful route, definately my top 3 favorite!!!! Nice to get started at 10am too (due to shade in the morning).
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-09-12
Views: 1211 | Votes: 4 | Comment: 1
Bill setting up the ledge

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Bill setting up the ledge

His ribs hurt, he has hauled 8 pitches, and he is the only one who knows how to set this bastard up. I did all I could, but it was cramped quarters and that thing sure was twisted.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-17
Views: 1000 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Bill through the spider's web

Average Rating = 3.20/5 Bill through the spider's web

He looks a bit happier in the morning than at 10pm setting this thing up.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-17
Views: 1105 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 0
Super-Cleaner ready to deploy speed jugs

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Super-Cleaner ready to deploy speed jugs

Racking up at the battle wagon for Zodiac. Mild mannered Bill becomes SuperCleaner as soon as "LEAD LINE FIXED" is shouted.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 704 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Out comes the coat hanger

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Out comes the coat hanger

So the only move on the whole route I needed a cheat stick (which we didn't have) was a rivet on the first pitch. Fortunately a coat hanger at the bottom of the pitch and some duct tape solved that lack of ability to top step on overhanging climbing. It looks slabby in the pic, but look at the tag line. Plumb that and that's the angle.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 894 | Votes: 2 | Comment: 1
Bill and Ranna hanging out

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Bill and Ranna hanging out

So this dude who was sponsored by Eldrid and his g/f who was doing her first wall, fixed three, and started jugging as I started the route. We passed them on 6. Here is Bill and him chillin while I am leading Pitch 8. It was really nice of him to let us pass and they were a cool couple.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 932 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 0
Black Tower

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Black Tower

The infamous Black Tower pitch. Don't blow it here or you will deck 20-30 feet below. I didn't think that was the crux of the route though. Trickier placements higher up, but with less consequences.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 815 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 2
Like eh?  What time is the wake up call set for bro?

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Like eh? What time is the wake up call set for bro?

Woops, this isn't Murphy's, but I'm not suffering as much as ice climbing either. My first portaledge bivy. You are too tired to be scared. Especially after spending 1 hour trying to set up a jumbled ledge that hasn't seen the light of day in 8 years. Aren't you glad you finally found a wall partner Bill? Total sleep: 5 hours. Almost not worth it.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 626 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Rise and shine.  Time for C3 cam hooks.

Average Rating = 2.50/5 Rise and shine. Time for C3 cam hooks.

Geez, I look stellar in the morning. Time to climb. Pitch 9 is awaiting. WAKE UP!!!! Just think what I would look like if I was a stoner. This is pretty much it.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 720 | Votes: 4 | Comment: 1
Early morning pee.

Average Rating = 1.67/5 Early morning pee.

From wake to climbing in 1 hour. Not too bad. Woops, gotta go real quick. Geez, look at the size of those balls!! I guess they grow after your first hanging bivy. Who knew (that I had any more room to grow)?
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 1221 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 0
Leading the Nipple

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Leading the Nipple

Pretty fixed with blue and green aliens to supplement. Not too bad at all. Fun eventhough I didn't lay back the nipple at "hard 5.9". I know, "what a wuss!".
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 741 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 0
Belaying the Nipple

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Belaying the Nipple

Here is Bill at the belay. Probably hauling. He did a lot of that on this route.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 954 | Votes: 40 | Comments: 15
It's only 5.9!

Average Rating = 2.67/5 It's only 5.9!

Let me tell you something son. 5.9 in aids boots at the end of day 2 is pretty damn hard, but when the rest of the route is overhanging 14a tips, the 5.9 looks like 5.7. It wasn't. I was dead tired by this point and only free climbed like 50 feet up. The bolts are there because the flake you are climbing is so thin it will snap under the weight of a cam. The bags above are of Kate and Melissa. We caught up to them and got to hang out with them on summit day.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 820 | Votes: 3 | Comment: 1
Two dirty rats (wall rats)

Average Rating = 1.50/5 Two dirty rats (wall rats)

Big wall stylin'!!! Look at this girl. Handkerchief and all. Well I guess that is a good substitute for toilet paper to wipe. And such a handy place to keep it. Kate and Paul at 14 as she comes down to release the pigs. She and Melissa climbed in style, tupperware and all.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 885 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 3
Bill's summit pic

Average Rating = 2.50/5 Bill's summit pic

Is that a sleeping bag condom? Good work buddy, that was a lot of work hauling 6 days of crap for our 2 day wall. We need to plan a bit more next time. We didn't starve or become dehydrated. We planned on 3.5 days and at our rate of consumption could have lasted 6 or more.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 692 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 0
Paul's summit pic

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Paul's summit pic

Just me the morning after 42 hours of the hardest work I have ever done (minus 5 hrs for "sleep"). Look at those strung out veins. I have been shooting crack. Or is that shooting up the cracks?!?! Great route, and amazing job on the free climbing Uber bros, and Tommy!!
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 961 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 3
Dude, we climbed that!!

Average Rating = 2.33/5 Dude, we climbed that!!

Trying for the Bridwell, Long, Westbay pic, but the distances were off. Cool to look at what you just did though.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-14
Views: 900 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 0
Summit pic

Average Rating = 2.25/5 Summit pic

This is a pic of me sorting gear after our ascent of Zodiac. Basically the only butt shot I have of me.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-05-12
Views: 697 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 0
Yosemite Speed Weapon at work

Average Rating = 2.50/5 Yosemite Speed Weapon at work

This is the belay just before the big chimney on Moonlight Buttress. YSW is some good stuff.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-03-16
Views: 987 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 0
Looking down from P4

Average Rating = 2.67/5 Looking down from P4

Bill and Beth from about 100 feet up Pitch 4 (off rocker blocker) on Moonlight. We did it in 9 hours base to top.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-03-14
Views: 818 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 0
Bill putting me on belay.

Average Rating = 2.50/5 Bill putting me on belay.

This is probably pitch 7 since I was super tired and Bill caught up to me. Also the only time I can remember that he was on my right.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-03-14
Views: 653 | Votes: 2 | Comment: 1
Ready to climb Beth?

Average Rating = 2.33/5 Ready to climb Beth?

Moabbeth getting ready for the long drive to Zion. Hey, is that a beer in your hand? You know what happens to people who drink and drive right??
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-03-14
Views: 759 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 2
Bill cleaning Pitch 4

Average Rating = 3.20/5 Bill cleaning Pitch 4

This is a good shot of Bill cleaning. I have short fixed and only got like 15 feet out before Bill got to the anchor. Beth is below having fun jugging.
Submitted by: addiroids on 2004-03-14
Views: 708 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 0
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