Photos by arachnophobia

Hot day, nuthin' to do but sew up a moderate. Cobweb is an enjoyable line but it has seen way too much traffic in the previous years. Most of the holds are worn to the point of being "caramelized". Very slippery smears on this climb.

Ground Zero is an enjoyable crack climb @ Mount Nemo. The guidebook states that its a two-pitch climb but a 60 m rope (I was using a 70 m) will easily span both "pitches". The placements of the top-anchors on this climb make it a pleasure to use them for rap-off... unlike the top anchors on other Nemo climbs like Camel!

This was an enjoyable 5.7 route that I led at the beginning of the season. The finger jams were a little tricky and first-of-the-season jitters had me using my helmet as a cam (non-progression) device as you can see here. My form has improved since then ;-)

Arachophobia's mug shot on the Coaster. Bringing up a second.

Reunion is a 5.7 route that's right of the classic Sister Morphine. Its a decent route that requires several techniques from crack climbing to laybacking... a fun lead for those breaking into 5.7

Camel is a *** route on the North end of Nemo. Its an enjoyable layback climb... a sustained and daring lead for nooBs. There are top-anchors so you can avoid the poison-ivy infested top-out but beware..... the anchors are situated on a face directly above the overhanging exit. The last person will be cussin' as he cleans and prepares to rap off the route.

Yeah, this 5.7 was definitely sandbagged.... or at least graded in the good ol' days when the highest grade was 5.9. I found this to be the equivalent of Harlequin (in terms of technical difficulty) but much less aesthetic due to low traffic on the route. Everything was covered in dirt and the cracks at the top were literally infested with pounds of pillbugs. Yeah, I know... I complain too much!

This is my climbing partner Don cranking the crux on Cat's Tail. Its a spectacular position, very exposed, and definitely fun whether leading it or following. A must do.

Got out with a good friend of mine on a Saturday to do Cat's Tail. This was technically my first 5.9 trad climb. I made it up in good time and we spent the rest of the day climbing moderates in the area... This picture should show some decent beta for would-be leaders on this amazing climb. Tip: the bottom takes a #8 BD stopper, the second placement is a #11. Beyond that, its all big active pro. Enjoy!

A lazy, hot summer day was spent on the Camel wall. Here's a climber getting up the Harlequin. There's a big nest half way up (either Eagle or Turkey vulture) and it would be unfortunate to rouse momma bird when your on that committing move! Most locals agree that this climb is not a 5.7. Dunno? hard 5.8 maybe... other climbs at Nemo are similarily sand-bagged like "The Big F".

Here Arachnophobia re-visits one of his favorite climbs @ Kelso: Dragline. The guidebook is right-on with the description of this climb. Its not as hard as it looks but the exposure is great for a moderate and the overhanging crux can make any nooB feel like a hero-4-a-day. Courage @ the bottom is definitely rewarded @ the top!

Technically my first 5.8 lead. Positron is a great introduction to 5.8 with a fun middle section you can layback on, counter-pressure, fist jam.... I've tried several variations. An expansion bolt on the bottom saves the trouble of building a directional.