Routes : North America : United States : New Hampshire : Carroll County : Mt. Willard : Right of Cinema Gulley : Across the Universe
Across the Universe - 5.10a
Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Todd Swain in the 1980s
Rock
PG13
4
Largely fixed. Light rack to 2.5 inches, double ropes.
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Description:
p. 1 start at two obvious bolts within 15 feet of the ground. step right after the second bolt (not left as some books mention) and (easy runout) to the third - it's been retrobolted and the ancient one was left next to it. Continue straight past a stub (sling w/ stopper) to a comfy 2 bolt belay (5.8-) p. 2 Approach the overlap on its right side, don't miss the hidden piton! Many use the bolt for a point of aid but working the moves is 5.10-, up left to another hidden piton and then straight for 40+ feet to a 2 bolt belay in a shattered bowl. p. 3 wander straight for 100+ feet and trend right towards the tree clup. Stretch the ropes out and belay on bolts right of the tree clump (5.4) p. 4 Stellar! The Milky Way pitch. Leave your rack at the belay, take several draws for the mixture of sometimes old bolts and pins, mindfully pad your way up the brilliant white rock to another 2 bolt anchor. (5.9-) p. 5 Don't bother, the beer's calling. Descent: three double rope raps.
Submitted by: lucander on 2006-10-15
Views: 1357
Route ID: 59101
12 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 12 ascent notes
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
love the view
northing like the whites
Added: 2012-06-20
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| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Worthwhile just for p.4
But the rest of the climb has its moments, too. Newer, more direct start (contrast Chauvin's online route description) gives additional good climbing. P.2 crux seems to go more easily for taller climbers (informal survey), otherwise requires substantial crimp strength. Milky Way pitch is fantastic. It's well protected by bolts. They may seem a little far apart but there are no ledges, no hazards. G rating.
Added: 2011-10-17
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| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | R |
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Across the Universe
Nice climb. Great views. Did pitch 5 beacuse we only had 1 rope. (OOPS !) Finished on upper tier climb "One Fork East of Eden" or whatever it is called for 2 additional pitches all the way to the summit. R rating for final pitch of both climbs.
Added: 2011-08-15
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
nice climb
sara led. rained at last pitch
Added: 2008-04-21
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
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classic
a great climb with a perplexing crux
Added: 2007-11-03
