Ascent Notes for: Magic Dragon - 5.8 Average Rating : 4.00/5

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Great fun and we got cookies to top it off!

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I climbed this with pbcowboy on the 4th, then went back on the 6th and speed climbed it with my buddy from San D in 1 hour 21 minutes. Running up slab while dehydrated really takes it out of you.

SWEET route the runouts play head games with you. After the first pitch of slab go about 20 ft up the right facing corner then hop up onto the top you'll see a little tree there for your belay if you use a 70m rope. Look at my pitch 4 pic. If not you'll belay before the right facing corner, but once you start go up about 20 ft and hop up on top of the corner anyway and follow the crack up.

Following the rt. facing corner on the 5th (?) pitch (after the first run-out slab), make sure to set your anchor high up in the crack. I set it too low, and my partner was unable to reach the belay at the top of the next slab pitch (very crucial, because there is no other pro on that pitch that we noted). Had to undo my anchor and free-solo up a ways so he could reach the belay (60M rope)

I've climbed this route so many times and it's still a fun afternoon climb... great for people who aren't really ready for the steep stuff all around the rest of the Needles, but want to take in the views :-). Not real challenging but that isn't the point. It's kind of the Snake Dike of the Needles.

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