Ascent Notes for: Heirloom - 5.9 Average Rating : 3.17/5

FA: Allan Gardner (1988), not Kevin Daniels

This climb was a nightmare. The bolts are super sketchy. The rock is loose in many places and the way the bolts are placed will cut up your rope. The anchor at the top is rusted. There are also no chains at the top so if you rappel down, you need to place the rope through the bolts themselves.

I removed the original cord that was up there because it was brittle and sun damaged and replaced it with my stuff. A guess that's my donation to the crag. I didn't trust rappelling down just on the bolts alone. I'm not going to compromise safety for $35 bucks.

Considering the extra hike you have to make just to get up there just for an 11.C and a deadly 5.9, I don't recommend this place.

sketchy ha ha

Me and 3 other SC climbers made the very first ascent of Heirloom after waiting for years for someone to finally establish the main route. -Nobody seemed interested, so we just worked away at it over a few year period. Finally, we just got tired of fooling around and just 'went for it' all the way to the top. We were very dissapointed that the rock quality wasn't all that great - hence the bolts.

I didn't trust the bolts, I didn't trust the holds. Rap down to the anchors of the 5.11 and switch anchors.

The crux is definitely in the bottom 15 feet. After that the climb is easy but make sure you double check every hold - theres a lot of loose stuff.

No comment